Question for owners of PST driveshaft
#1
Question for owners of PST driveshaft
I have a 1999 Camaro Z28 M6 with a quick performance 9in, lowered 1 1/2. I am installing a PST driveshaft for a 9in and with the suspension hanging I cant install the driveshaft, it seems too long. I load the suspension and I can just barely get it on. I am attaching pics to show how close the slip yoke is after being installed. Is this normal?
I measured from the rear yoke to trans case and got the 45 1/4 measurement, I just want to be sure before I drive on this setup.
The first pic will be the shaft installed and suspension hanging, then with the suspension loaded.
Also does this look like a Forged slip yoke?
I measured from the rear yoke to trans case and got the 45 1/4 measurement, I just want to be sure before I drive on this setup.
The first pic will be the shaft installed and suspension hanging, then with the suspension loaded.
Also does this look like a Forged slip yoke?
Last edited by mgood613; 03-28-2014 at 08:46 PM.
#4
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iTrader: (1)
it looks like your good.
going from the 2nd pic having the yoke located with suspension loaded and drive shaft completely installed, is undo the shaft from the rear axle then see how much further the transmission yoke will push forward into the transmission. when i put my s60 in, i don't remember ever being able to bottom out the transmission yoke in my t56 to anything metal inside. the only thing that really stopped it was the seal and the outside of the trans to the yoke where it becomes larger. so as long yours can push in at least 1/4" and if it goes 1/2" without hitting anything you're fine, worst case the seal rubs up against the yoke a bit which is not end of the world.
from there what you can do is remove the rear springs then let the car sit on the axle bump stops, that'll be worst case, and see how much yoke clearance you have. i did that with mine and the location of the seal lip on the yoke basically did not change vs the suspension normally loaded, not more than 1/8".
your first pic is with suspension hanging, the rear end being connected to the trans is a lever arm and the rear will drop and move in a circular motion towards the transmission, which is why your seal is up against the yoke and why you must take your drive shaft measurement with the suspension loaded as it would be driving down the road. in your case it looks like you got the most engagement you can possibly get, which is a good thing. and if you have adjustable rear control arms you can move the axle rearward 1/8" and gain clearance that way. when i did mine i initially took measurements for the drive shaft with the stock lca and panhard bar, but later i noticed when everything was done i could visually notice the rear wheels sat slightly aft in the wheel well, not completely centered. i also have umi adj. rear lca's so being completely **** i use those and get the rear wheels completely centered in the well, and that 1/8" to 1/4" movement forward is the most i can go on my transmission yoke because my trans seal lip is only 1/4" from hitting where the yoke ears start.
going from the 2nd pic having the yoke located with suspension loaded and drive shaft completely installed, is undo the shaft from the rear axle then see how much further the transmission yoke will push forward into the transmission. when i put my s60 in, i don't remember ever being able to bottom out the transmission yoke in my t56 to anything metal inside. the only thing that really stopped it was the seal and the outside of the trans to the yoke where it becomes larger. so as long yours can push in at least 1/4" and if it goes 1/2" without hitting anything you're fine, worst case the seal rubs up against the yoke a bit which is not end of the world.
from there what you can do is remove the rear springs then let the car sit on the axle bump stops, that'll be worst case, and see how much yoke clearance you have. i did that with mine and the location of the seal lip on the yoke basically did not change vs the suspension normally loaded, not more than 1/8".
your first pic is with suspension hanging, the rear end being connected to the trans is a lever arm and the rear will drop and move in a circular motion towards the transmission, which is why your seal is up against the yoke and why you must take your drive shaft measurement with the suspension loaded as it would be driving down the road. in your case it looks like you got the most engagement you can possibly get, which is a good thing. and if you have adjustable rear control arms you can move the axle rearward 1/8" and gain clearance that way. when i did mine i initially took measurements for the drive shaft with the stock lca and panhard bar, but later i noticed when everything was done i could visually notice the rear wheels sat slightly aft in the wheel well, not completely centered. i also have umi adj. rear lca's so being completely **** i use those and get the rear wheels completely centered in the well, and that 1/8" to 1/4" movement forward is the most i can go on my transmission yoke because my trans seal lip is only 1/4" from hitting where the yoke ears start.
Last edited by 1 FMF; 03-29-2014 at 08:06 PM.
#5
Thanks, I am just use to seeing more of the yoke shaft viewable. I measured everything with the suspension loaded multiple times. I was just looking on here to make me feel better before I start launching car. I guess when you are going for performance and a custom shaft you can take it to the limit so as to not twist the splines.
#7
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Michael, Cliff at PST got back to me this morning and confirmed you do indeed have a forged yoke. I replied to your e-mail. Thanks. Bob
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#10
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That's good to hear! Bob
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#12
Just throwing this in here.
I thought this yoke was cast because of the flashing on it, but I have since been schooled on cast vs forged parts and wanted to add a picture. The wide flashing marks are proof of a forged part.
Just proof you learn something new every day!!
Forged on the Left, Cast on the right.
I thought this yoke was cast because of the flashing on it, but I have since been schooled on cast vs forged parts and wanted to add a picture. The wide flashing marks are proof of a forged part.
Just proof you learn something new every day!!
Forged on the Left, Cast on the right.
#15
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Good to hear! Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website