casualty of a ten bolt?
05-06-2014, 03:49 PM
#1
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casualty of a ten bolt? Long story short I was on the highway one of the few times I take my car to work and it started to whine, at first I was like, ok road noise. Then it became a scream mostly inside the cabin. sounds like a howl at highway speeds or untill it gets warmed up in city driving. I suspect my differential is on its way out but not sure. Not to much experience with these but is there something I can check before I start looking to replace? Thanks sorry this post isnt very informative but It is all the info I have right now, noise does not change with turns, seems to be only speed/heat related it is a m6 99 z28 no mods besides Lid, catback, subframe connectors, and a strut tower brace, never given me a big issue before?
05-06-2014, 06:32 PM
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thanks for the tip, just got out from under her the fluid level is fine, was clean and red? hope thats what it supposed to be like haha tomorrow I have an apt to take it in and see what they thing hope its nothing crazy
05-07-2014, 05:48 PM
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Update, it was the pinion bearing, the supercharger description is perfect, exactly what it sounded like. Local shop is doing throwing a rebuild kit at it, caught it just before it ate my carrier. the new guts are warrantied for a year which is one less thing I have to worry about. Thanks for the suggestion and better description of the noise
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05-09-2014, 09:15 AM
#8
TECH Apprentice
I'm in the process of installing in a 4.10 gear now, so I'm interested in knowing this too.
I'm assuming it's in place of the crush sleeve? What're the benefits?
I'm assuming it's in place of the crush sleeve? What're the benefits?
05-09-2014, 09:22 AM
#9
TECH Apprentice
I found some good information on some other forums (to answer my own question) on the solid spacer. My only remaining question is - does anyone know if it still takes 200-400 ft/lbs to get to the right rotational resistance of the pinion as it is to crush the crush sleeve?
the solid spacer is reusable, and you dont have to keep checking the preload with every turn of the torque wrench. to get the proper length, set the rear up with a crush sleeve like you normaly would, then pull it apart and measure the chrushed length and have a olid spacer made to the same length. your done.
The crush sleeve fits between the two sets of pinion bearings. It's job is to hold tension between them.
These pinion bearings look like front wheel bearings, and can't be too tight or too loose. With a crush sleeve, you simply torque it on, and it crushes to keep from getting the bearings too tight. Only problem, with severe use, it can become further crushed, and all the tension on the bearings is lost.
A solid pinion spacer eliminates this problem... but you can't just slide it in and blindly crank the nut on tight. If the spacer is too thick, the bearings will be too tight, too thin, and they will be too loose. For this reason, the spacer comes on the thin side, and a pack of shims is included to get it 'just right'.
The spacer is first installed on the 'thin' side, and shims are slowly added until the bearing preload is right... which can be either measured with a calibrated hand or in-lb torque wrench. Oh, it's not necessarily a good idea to just measure the thickness of the used crush sleeve and use that for the spacer. Starting a little shy of that measurement is a good starting point, but that method is NOT foolproof.
I always use solid spacers when setting up 8"-9" Ford rears. As a bonus, the pinion yoke can be taken off and on with no worries.
Good Luck!
These pinion bearings look like front wheel bearings, and can't be too tight or too loose. With a crush sleeve, you simply torque it on, and it crushes to keep from getting the bearings too tight. Only problem, with severe use, it can become further crushed, and all the tension on the bearings is lost.
A solid pinion spacer eliminates this problem... but you can't just slide it in and blindly crank the nut on tight. If the spacer is too thick, the bearings will be too tight, too thin, and they will be too loose. For this reason, the spacer comes on the thin side, and a pack of shims is included to get it 'just right'.
The spacer is first installed on the 'thin' side, and shims are slowly added until the bearing preload is right... which can be either measured with a calibrated hand or in-lb torque wrench. Oh, it's not necessarily a good idea to just measure the thickness of the used crush sleeve and use that for the spacer. Starting a little shy of that measurement is a good starting point, but that method is NOT foolproof.
I always use solid spacers when setting up 8"-9" Ford rears. As a bonus, the pinion yoke can be taken off and on with no worries.
Good Luck!
05-12-2014, 08:48 PM
#14
I found some good information on some other forums (to answer my own question) on the solid spacer. My only remaining question is - does anyone know if it still takes 200-400 ft/lbs to get to the right rotational resistance of the pinion as it is to crush the crush sleeve?
The ARP stud kit helps and for $25 it's well worth it in my opinion. I had them on my 10 bolt.
