camarodude87

iTrader: (8)

Hello all.

I really need some help. I've done some looking online and came up with something but I just want to make sure im getting right stuff. My studs snapped off of my Moser 9 today. Really pissed about that. Well come to find out both of my axle seals appear to be leaking from all the oil covering my breaks and wheel wells. Not to happy cause the rear is about 2 years old, Maybe 2 1/2. I don't want to start ordering seals and bearings. I didn't assembly my rear my buddy did. So i'm not sure what bearings it had. Its not to old so someone who assembled a rear recently can help me out. BOB?? So if someone can help me out please chime in. Ill attempt to do this myself if I have the right seals. Thanks guys. Ill post pics tomorrow and I know for sure its coming from the seals. please help

Thanks

cam

iTrader: (9)

I like the taper bearings/seals and conventional dyno lube. Syn leaks and makes more noise imo but it does last a lot longer. With the cheapy dyno lube a seasonal change is wise and good for inspection anyways. Also dont over fill the diff, this will lead to leaks no matter what lube you run. Axle seals will not withstand an oil bath.

camarodude87

iTrader: (8)

Does anyone have a pic of the breather location on the moser 9??? I want to check if it's covered with paint

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

Tapered bearing have the seal built into them. Ball bearing don't, they require a separate seal.

First off you need to determine which type of bearing you have.

Vent can be just about anywhere. It should be on an axel tube. Vents on the differential tend to get lube tossed out them by the ring gear. Vent is normally a nipple 1/2-1 inch long 1/4" diameter.

camarodude87

iTrader: (8)

I honestly don't know what bearings came with my Moser. Ill have to ask the guy who put it together. Ill go searching for vent tubes.. Well he just said they were pressed on. Doesn't tell me much. I know its been two years. Anyway is there a way I can just get the tapered bearings even it if has the ball bearing ones?

cam

iTrader: (9)

Taper bearing the seal is stand alone. Roller bearing the o-ring seal thing is part of the bearing.

Heres a 9" style taper bearing and seal




Heres a roller bearing and o-ring type seal; Obviously the o-ring goes in the groove. These are more prone to failure and leaking in my experience

Randolph Ziskey

iTrader: (13)

I got the roller bearings with my moser. If I encounter leakage will the taper bearing fit also or am I stuck with the roller bearing? Good info and thanks.

cam

iTrader: (9)

Taper bearing is a direct swap, no machining nec. I like to use brand new locking rings too, or at the very least add a couple drops of green bearing locktite to the ring and bearing before pressing on. Its best to install fresh rings though, as well as the locktite

Randolph Ziskey

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the info I appreciate it.

cam

iTrader: (9)

Sure thing. If you do go taper just be extra cautious when installing the axle, the lip of the seal is easily torn on the housing end and its a fair bit of weight there. Easy does it

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

It is quite common for the wheel bearings supplied from Moser to not have an o ring. In this case you use silicone sealer (RTV) around the outer edge of them prior to installing the axles into the housing.



Gear oil should be filled to the bottom of the hole shown in the above pic.

The vent is located on top of the driver side axle tube. Bob

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

The tapered bearing and ball bearing are NOT a direct swap.

Most Moser axles will come with a 1.531 axle shaft and a ball bearing, and will NOT accept a tapered style bearing which is much better for street use. When we setup rearends for customers they always have the larger diameter axle shaft and tapered bearing unless it is a race only purpose car.

cam

iTrader: (9)

I stand corrected sorta.... some of the roller bearings have the same 1.562" id and some have 1.531" id. First Ive seen that ( i had to search it out ). Ive swapped from roller to taper before


Yet another reason for anyone who views this thread to go taper from the get go. There is no downside to them, only plus

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

If you have swapped can you share the part numbers?

I have never been able to find the correct ones for a swap.

cam

iTrader: (9)

I must have got lucky? Anyways Moser lists two roller bearings

PN 9508B roller 1.531" Id

and

PN 9508T roller 1.562" id

both 3.150"od

I wonder why the different sizes? FWIW I have minimal roller experience. In the early days we ran c-clip elims and I had all sorts of bearing issues and skipped straight to taper when I got diff savvy. I always recommend them but have a couple buddies who cheaped out and went roller which I advised wasnt a big deal because "can always upgrade later..."

Now? Im not so certain i gave sound advice as you dont really eyeball that difference so I have no clue if they got the smaller ones or not oh well, lets just hope they dont run into issues down the road and make me feel worse.

Go figure, i step in this thread to help out and I end up getting helped out too

Randolph Ziskey

iTrader: (13)

IMO I appreciate it because that's how we learn and I know I need the help.

cam

iTrader: (9)

Indeed. Theres always something new to learn.

Now if I could just learn how to add a couple zero's to my income....

camarodude87

iTrader: (8)

So if you have a moser you have to run ball bearings only?

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

You have to order the axels for either roller or tapered.

You cannot swap from one bearing to the other due to the difference in inner diameter. There is no difference in the housing ends only the axel diameter.

You have to order new axels with desired bearings.

camarodude87

iTrader: (8)

Ok thanks for the reply. I just don't see how rtv on the bearing will stop it from leaking. I mean my wheel wells are soaked. Brake pads don't even grip. It's insane how much fluid leaked out. Hopefully just my breather is has been painted over