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10 bolt now making "howl" after one powershift

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Old 09-13-2014, 06:05 AM
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Default 10 bolt now making "howl" after one powershift

I just got my car back from the engine builder yesterday. I go out last night to just ease into getting a feel for the car with the engine upgrades, which it dyno'd at over 400 HP. I go for one, hard, good powershift from 1-2nd gear and a noise suddenly is coming on deceleration. At first I thought it was coming from the tranny, but after a few mins my friend and myself figured it to be coming from the rear. I had 3.90's installed by an experienced rear-end guy, with new bearings, axle bearings, etc this spring. I have not been able to look into it yet today, but wanted to post in here to get feedback. So my question is, on these stock 10-bolts, where do I look first? What fails , and can it be repaired to get me till winter? Next year I wanna get a Strange/Dana 60 setup to get it over with, but until then I just wanna drive the car.
Old 09-13-2014, 07:29 AM
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How loud? Any vibration? Post a video if possible. I have the same gears. I noticed this also last night after I did 3 passes at the track.
Old 09-13-2014, 10:16 AM
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loud enough that I could hear it above the sound of the exhaust, which my exhaust is not that loud, I'm running that flowmaster crossflow. It was dark out, raining, etc. My wipers are shitty, I just wanted to get home. I'm wondering if I can drive it still, or if it'll just ruin it further. The thing is I just need to get like 45 more days out of it till I can't drive it anymore here in Michigan. I'm not planning on continuing to use a 10 bolt. I want something that will hold up
Old 09-13-2014, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by frez777
loud enough that I could hear it above the sound of the exhaust, which my exhaust is not that loud, I'm running that flowmaster crossflow. It was dark out, raining, etc. My wipers are shitty, I just wanted to get home. I'm wondering if I can drive it still, or if it'll just ruin it further. The thing is I just need to get like 45 more days out of it till I can't drive it anymore here in Michigan. I'm not planning on continuing to use a 10 bolt. I want something that will hold up
Ehh, just turn up the stereo louder lol
Old 09-13-2014, 10:36 AM
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I suppose, lol. I just get driven nuts by things that I can't figure out. If I knew what was causing it, which I need to get off the puter and get my butt on the situation. I'll keep y'all posted.
Old 09-13-2014, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by frez777
I suppose, lol. I just get driven nuts by things that I can't figure out. If I knew what was causing it, which I need to get off the puter and get my butt on the situation. I'll keep y'all posted.
I'm the same way. Every little noise scares me lol. I lose sleep at night haha
Old 09-13-2014, 11:06 AM
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Why only 45 more days? I'm here in MI as well and am hoping we have longer than that this year lol
Old 09-13-2014, 01:25 PM
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I should have said "until the snow flies and it's icy out then. I live right by Lake Michigan, it gets bad here
Old 09-13-2014, 01:48 PM
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Gotcha! Yes it does lol
Old 09-13-2014, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by frez777
So my question is, on these stock 10-bolts, where do I look first? What fails , and can it be repaired to get me till winter? Next year I wanna get a Strange/Dana 60 setup to get it over with, but until then I just wanna drive the car.
it uses a crush sleeve. you can google crush sleeve and read all about it, my 'theory' is that by design the crush sleeve crushes under a certain amount of force by design which allows for ease of manufacturing and assembly. this is fine if it's going in a car/truck that sees less than, say 200 hp/tq you'll never have a problem.... but reality has shown over the last 10 years this design in the 4th gen f-fody has had problems at 350 hp/tq if driven at 100%. now you modded and have 400+ hp/tq. when you launch hard or put 100% power through the rear axle, that force is causing the crush sleeve to crush/deform and you're losing pinion bearing preload. now your pinion gear is able to move, even if it's 0.001", causing the noise. so if you run it hard it's just a matter of time, if you go easy then it'll probably last a while but be noisy. the noise will just get worse, as the ring & pinion gear develop a very bad wear pattern and eat each other. but it's not like the car is going to not move, just run it easy until you either rebuild it or put in a new axle.
Old 09-13-2014, 08:03 PM
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Run it til it dies! Not worth the effort worrying over it and building it again if you're replacing it soon anyway. Before I installed my 12 bolt, the pinion in my 10 bolt had so much slop it was yanking the driveshaft all over the place and it was spitting oil on the garage floor after a drive.
Old 09-13-2014, 08:31 PM
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We're going to look into it, the guy who installed the gears has plenty of knowledge. I wanna get a new setup and am now wondering if any of y'all know which setup I can get that is a direct bolt in, WITH all the reluctor wheels for the anti-lock brakes and the traction control stuff. So I can plug n play. I'm going to look into a Strange with the Dana 60. I JUST got the car back from the shop yesterday, it dyno'd out at 406 HP~386 ft lbs. It's extremely potent. I got the LS7 clutch setup and I power shifted it HARD from 1st to 2nd, that's all it took. I would love to see us be able to re-set the gears with a new crush sleeve and baby it until the spring. At least I can drive it then, and not have to drive the work truck. Life in the race car bizz I guess.
Old 09-14-2014, 08:09 AM
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I'm leaning towards that Strange 12 bolt. Did you get all the trac conctrol and anti lock stuff included on your rear?
Old 09-14-2014, 11:41 PM
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I did. I have a 3 channel setup though, which from what I've heard has better luck getting ABS to function. I've heard of guys with 4 channel setups being a little finicky with ABS/TCS working properly.
Old 09-15-2014, 09:02 AM
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As far as these "channels" they speak of, are they like channels in the casting, or something referring to the electrical end of the system for the ABS/trac control? I've got a 2002 Trans Am
Old 09-15-2014, 09:16 AM
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I just got under there and looked, it's a 3 channel, there is a "sensor" at the top of the pig, with wires running on the outside of the axle tubes, going to the backing plate sensor. I'm thinking that's a 3 channel anyways.
Old 09-15-2014, 11:53 AM
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3 channel ABS has one sensor on top of the rear end,4 channel ABS & TC has two sensors,one on each backing plate.
Old 09-15-2014, 12:12 PM
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"Channels" refers to the electrical sensors needed to run the ABS system or ABS/TCS system if equipped with TCS.

As FirstYr mentioned, 3 channel is just one sensor and wire on the top of the pumpkin. No TCS (traction control).

4 channel has no sensor on top of the pumpkin; instead, there is a sensor and wires plugged into each brake backing plate on either side of the rearend. This is for the TCS system.

An easy way to see it is just checking your interior to see if you have the ASR button on the dash beside the fog light button. The ASR button is to turn the traction control off. If you have it, you have a 4 channel setup.
Old 09-15-2014, 01:05 PM
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For a M6 car get a S60, they bolt right in like stock. If you park the car in the winter ditch the ABS and get a SJM line lock kit with the money saved.
Old 09-15-2014, 08:25 PM
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My car guy suggested the S60, but I want the 3.90 ratio, which I didn't think was available with the dodge carrier. I'm not sure what's all involved with the deletion of the ABS.


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