beyonddisturbed

iTrader: (5)

Ok so as some of you know another 10 bolt bit the dust. This is the first time I will have swapped a rear diff in my car. I will be doing this in the garage. The process seems pretty straightforward and I am not worried about it. My question is for those who have tackled this before. Any tips? Tools that make the job easier? Since I am saving a bundle doing this myself, I am willing to pick up any new tools I can use for this and future projects.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

unbolt the calipers and let them hang off to the side,the flex line will allow that and that way you won't have to bleed them. Unhook e-brake lines off backing plate levers(sometimes difficult). Unbolt all e-brake line guide brackets off of housing. Unbolt/unclip brake lines off housing. Disconnect electrical sensor line on top up rear.
I think that's all the preliminary.
The rest is unbolting and removal. Yoke u-joint cap/straps,torque arm,panhard bar,lcas'.
Hope I didn't forget anything just based on memory at 7:30 in the morning.
Also assuming everything in the replacement rear is OK,bearings,axles,axle bearings & seals.

beyonddisturbed

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the tips. I am picking up a used 3 channel rear with 3.42s out of a car with 80k. What should I check as far as condition?

LopeyZ

iTrader: (2)

Spin the axles and listen for any noise. A good rear will hardly make a sound. If you hear something that sounds like your car rolling over rough pavement then the bearings are probably shot. Be a good idea to pull the axles to inspect for pitting just to be safe. Not a lot of additional work to pull the axles after removing the diff cover but look it up a how-to. Also replace the axle seals while you are at it. I wouldn't touch the pinion seal right now or you could cause yourself more trouble. Maybe evaluate that seal after you get some miles on the rear. It's not as simple to replace as the axle seals.

Do you know what year car that rear is out of?

Also, unless you physically see the car and know that rear is out of a 6 speed then you should make sure its a 3.42. I once found that out the hard way.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

your 2001 would have a Torsen posi(99-02),a 98 would have a Auburn posi.
If you gotta do axle seals,don't get the 'axle saver' variety. many threads on why not.

here's my first,3.23 rear(lower)out and 4.56(upper)going in


2nd,4.56 rear(lower) out and 3.23 rear(upper) going back in after 4 years of running the 4.56s',3.23 rear was completely rebuilt


a 3.73 rearend is in process to go in soon.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

I did forget a few things in post #2
in the preliminary-sway bar
in the unbolting/removal-shocks

beyonddisturbed

iTrader: (5)

Thanks guys. I picked up the rear end over the weekend from a mom and pop shop with a good reputation. It is out of a 3.8 01 camaro and has 3.42 gears. I will be checking the gears myself but the parts place did and said it was in good shape. I need to strip off the lcas, rotors, calipers, panhard, and sway bars as it came with them all attached. It is pretty rusty. Any way I could clean it up on the cheap? I am hoping to get it swapped this winter (maybe throw in some founders adjustable lcas and relocation as well) Also, is it a good idea to swap all the seals while I have it out?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

the V6s' came with 3.08s' as standard and 3.42s' in an optional performance package. I believe that 3.42 package also contained a posi. 01 would/should have a Torsen.

beyonddisturbed

iTrader: (5)

Sweet. I pulled off all the junk suspension and will be opening it up tomorrow to see what I've got.