Ford 8.8 setup for 98-02 fbody anyone selling one
05-01-2015, 01:22 AM
#1
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Ford 8.8 setup for 98-02 fbody anyone selling one Looking for a rearend to handle a lil under 1000rwhp thru a t56. Even if anyone has anything that will bolt on and stand up to the power cash in hand tryin to stay away with 9in since there heavy n eat power up 314 77nine six97three. Contact me
05-01-2015, 01:44 AM
#2
Why are there so many people with the budget for 1000rwhp, but a tiny budget for supporting mods? A properly build 8.8 may be fine for your application, but I'd vote for a FAB9, lightweight and bulletproof. Make up for the parasitic loss by dumping your clutch at 6000rpms.
05-01-2015, 08:35 AM
#3
8.8 uses the exact same bearings as a 12 bolt. Ring gear is same size. Axles are the same spline count.
All the issues that are known with 12 bolts, then people want to go through the headache of trying to manufacture and install a torque arm mount and weld it to a casting that isn't really designed for welding, and guaranteed to distort the pinion bearing area that is crucial for setup.
I can not tell you how many people we have sold 9" rearends to that went through the "I can save a lot of money doing a modified 8.8". The proof is in the pudding.
All the issues that are known with 12 bolts, then people want to go through the headache of trying to manufacture and install a torque arm mount and weld it to a casting that isn't really designed for welding, and guaranteed to distort the pinion bearing area that is crucial for setup.
I can not tell you how many people we have sold 9" rearends to that went through the "I can save a lot of money doing a modified 8.8". The proof is in the pudding.
05-01-2015, 12:13 PM
#4
Had two customers this month give up their 8.8's after spending the money for someone else to build one. Complained about gear noise after some track time and the fact the stock style torque arm bracket makes contact with the underside of the chassis similar to the stamped nine inches on the market.
05-04-2015, 06:45 AM
#6
8.8 uses the exact same bearings as a 12 bolt. Ring gear is same size. Axles are the same spline count.
All the issues that are known with 12 bolts, then people want to go through the headache of trying to manufacture and install a torque arm mount and weld it to a casting that isn't really designed for welding, and guaranteed to distort the pinion bearing area that is crucial for setup.
I can not tell you how many people we have sold 9" rearends to that went through the "I can save a lot of money doing a modified 8.8". The proof is in the pudding.
All the issues that are known with 12 bolts, then people want to go through the headache of trying to manufacture and install a torque arm mount and weld it to a casting that isn't really designed for welding, and guaranteed to distort the pinion bearing area that is crucial for setup.
I can not tell you how many people we have sold 9" rearends to that went through the "I can save a lot of money doing a modified 8.8". The proof is in the pudding.
05-04-2015, 08:27 AM
#7
There are still people who have them, and honestly if you're running the A4 car in your sig, it *may* be ok. But 1000rwhp is no joke and frankly if I already spent the coin on 1000rwhp and a t-56 that can handle it, I'd want something beefier than a cheap 8.8 under the car.
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05-04-2015, 11:02 AM
#8
There are still people who have them, and honestly if you're running the A4 car in your sig, it *may* be ok. But 1000rwhp is no joke and frankly if I already spent the coin on 1000rwhp and a t-56 that can handle it, I'd want something beefier than a cheap 8.8 under the car.
05-04-2015, 12:33 PM
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Had two customers this month give up their 8.8's after spending the money for someone else to build one. Complained about gear noise after some track time and the fact the stock style torque arm bracket makes contact with the underside of the chassis similar to the stamped nine inches on the market.
05-04-2015, 02:00 PM
#10
An this is a true fabricated nine inch were we always offered e-brake brackets, brake line clips/tabs, and sway bar brackets at no extra charge. Not by inflating base price and then saying it is free like others do. All while being cheaper than any other fabricated nine inch on the market.
05-04-2015, 02:34 PM
#11
One of the huge advantages in my eyes is how MWC mounts the torque arm to the rear. The stock style puts a lot of stress and twist into the housing. Seems the fab rear wants to drive the rear to the ground to put the power to the pavement. I have had the 10 bolt explode, had a stamp 9 inch and sold it and 300 bucks more I had a MWC housing and axl package with a torque arm and mount. Great value and customer service.
05-05-2015, 10:29 PM
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We can get you taken care of on an S60 or we offer a great payment plan option on our fabricated nine inches. You can pay a down payment of $500 to get yourself on the list and pay as you go until you can pay it off.
An this is a true fabricated nine inch were we always offered e-brake brackets, brake line clips/tabs, and sway bar brackets at no extra charge. Not by inflating base price and then saying it is free like others do. All while being cheaper than any other fabricated nine inch on the market.
An this is a true fabricated nine inch were we always offered e-brake brackets, brake line clips/tabs, and sway bar brackets at no extra charge. Not by inflating base price and then saying it is free like others do. All while being cheaper than any other fabricated nine inch on the market.
05-09-2015, 09:27 PM
#14
Just finished my 8.8 install today. Took 3 days. First day was cleaning the garage, removing the stock 10 bolt, bolting in the 8.8. Which never bolts in when you are also doing LCAs, LCARBs, panhard, weld in sub frames. Then the next day was welding the new torque arm mount to the factory trans crossmember and finishing touches. Had to swap the brakes from the 7.5 to the 8.8 of course. Bleed the brakes, ect. Test drive and find a squealing noise. Then today I take a look and the custom moser axles are ever so long enough to make the rotor hit the caliper bracket. So after all the, I drive it and find a vibration. Set the pinion angle at -2.5. Check the used drive shaft that came with the rear and it had some play in the rear U joint. So, now I have to pull that back out but there is more room to do so than with the stock DS and TQ arm. Another set back was cutting the mounting locations off the TQ arm where it bolted up to the 12 bolt I had in the 89 RS. It had to use the holes that are supposed to be for a 9".
All this was after buying the rear that was supposed to be ready to go for 800$. Then spending the cash to have the 4.30s installed and finding the carrier and bearings are bad. And having the DS fitted with a yoke.
I'm in this thing enough to have waited and got a used 12 bolt. But I can say the carrier is brand new and the bearings. No worries about the 10 bolt breaking when I go play at the track.
All this was after buying the rear that was supposed to be ready to go for 800$. Then spending the cash to have the 4.30s installed and finding the carrier and bearings are bad. And having the DS fitted with a yoke.
I'm in this thing enough to have waited and got a used 12 bolt. But I can say the carrier is brand new and the bearings. No worries about the 10 bolt breaking when I go play at the track.
05-10-2015, 08:03 AM
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8.8 uses the exact same bearings as a 12 bolt. Ring gear is same size. Axles are the same spline count.
All the issues that are known with 12 bolts, then people want to go through the headache of trying to manufacture and install a torque arm mount and weld it to a casting that isn't really designed for welding, and guaranteed to distort the pinion bearing area that is crucial for setup.
All the issues that are known with 12 bolts, then people want to go through the headache of trying to manufacture and install a torque arm mount and weld it to a casting that isn't really designed for welding, and guaranteed to distort the pinion bearing area that is crucial for setup.
05-10-2015, 02:11 PM
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Sorry I'd just prefer 33 or 35 spline. You can get both in a 12 bolt I know for a fact but as your axle gets bigger the meat around the carrier bearing area gets very thin. With bearing IDs being what they are are there are obvious size limitations, axles in particular. Don't most want to keep 31 or smaller spline so they can use a stock ford posi? That seems dumb to me too.
05-10-2015, 02:17 PM
#18
Sorry I'd just prefer 33 or 35 spline. You can get both in a 12 bolt I know for a fact but as your axle gets bigger the meat around the carrier bearing area gets very thin. With bearing IDs being what they are are there are obvious size limitations, axles in particular. Don't most want to keep 31 or smaller spline so they can use a stock ford posi? That seems dumb to me too.
05-10-2015, 03:08 PM
#19
The factory 8.8 is C clip. And as I mentioned, if you are pushing any real power and have money invested to do so, why even consider a modded stock 8.8?
I will say, you won't break a 31 spline rear though. Not unless you shake the tires or have a heavy *** ride. My tiny 28 spline stock axles are holding in my 8.8 that is under my 80 mustang. But it is an auto and 2700 pounds.
My 12 bolt I have in the 86 TA was under my 89 RS and I launched the **** out of that with a 6 speed and it never flinched. Never made noise, never did anything but ****** the tires off the ground and go. This 8.8 is simply a elimination of the 7.5 10 bolt and if I ever change my mind from a bolt on car I'll sell it or put it in another mild car.
I will say, you won't break a 31 spline rear though. Not unless you shake the tires or have a heavy *** ride. My tiny 28 spline stock axles are holding in my 8.8 that is under my 80 mustang. But it is an auto and 2700 pounds.
My 12 bolt I have in the 86 TA was under my 89 RS and I launched the **** out of that with a 6 speed and it never flinched. Never made noise, never did anything but ****** the tires off the ground and go. This 8.8 is simply a elimination of the 7.5 10 bolt and if I ever change my mind from a bolt on car I'll sell it or put it in another mild car.
05-10-2015, 03:36 PM
#20
The factory 8.8 is C clip. And as I mentioned, if you are pushing any real power and have money invested to do so, why even consider a modded stock 8.8?
I will say, you won't break a 31 spline rear though. Not unless you shake the tires or have a heavy *** ride. My tiny 28 spline stock axles are holding in my 8.8 that is under my 80 mustang. But it is an auto and 2700 pounds.
My 12 bolt I have in the 86 TA was under my 89 RS and I launched the **** out of that with a 6 speed and it never flinched. Never made noise, never did anything but ****** the tires off the ground and go. This 8.8 is simply a elimination of the 7.5 10 bolt and if I ever change my mind from a bolt on car I'll sell it or put it in another mild car.
I will say, you won't break a 31 spline rear though. Not unless you shake the tires or have a heavy *** ride. My tiny 28 spline stock axles are holding in my 8.8 that is under my 80 mustang. But it is an auto and 2700 pounds.
My 12 bolt I have in the 86 TA was under my 89 RS and I launched the **** out of that with a 6 speed and it never flinched. Never made noise, never did anything but ****** the tires off the ground and go. This 8.8 is simply a elimination of the 7.5 10 bolt and if I ever change my mind from a bolt on car I'll sell it or put it in another mild car.
Stolen from an older thread and originally stolen from brutespeed:
Spline Count
Properly sizing your axles can be tricky. Axles too small are prone to breaking, while ones too big eat up power. Fortunately, Moser has a simple formula to help select the right axles. "First multiply your engine's torque by its First gear ratio, its ring-and-pinion ratio, and 0.90 to account for driveline loss," explains Moser. "This will give you a figure that represents the maximum amount of torque transmitted to both axles if you launched at your engine's torque peak and dead-hooked out of the hole. A 30-spline axle is rated at 6,200 lb-ft, a 31-spline at 7,000, a 33-spline at 8,200, a 35-spline at 9,600, and a 40-spline at 12,000. As long as the figure from the formula is smaller than the torque rating of the axle, you'll be in good shape. Since axles are rated individually and not as pairs, sticking with this plan will make it virtually impossible to break an axle since you'll have a safety factor of 200 percent built in."
FORMULA:
Torque at rear axles = Torque x First gear ratio x Rear gear ratio x 0.90
Properly sizing your axles can be tricky. Axles too small are prone to breaking, while ones too big eat up power. Fortunately, Moser has a simple formula to help select the right axles. "First multiply your engine's torque by its First gear ratio, its ring-and-pinion ratio, and 0.90 to account for driveline loss," explains Moser. "This will give you a figure that represents the maximum amount of torque transmitted to both axles if you launched at your engine's torque peak and dead-hooked out of the hole. A 30-spline axle is rated at 6,200 lb-ft, a 31-spline at 7,000, a 33-spline at 8,200, a 35-spline at 9,600, and a 40-spline at 12,000. As long as the figure from the formula is smaller than the torque rating of the axle, you'll be in good shape. Since axles are rated individually and not as pairs, sticking with this plan will make it virtually impossible to break an axle since you'll have a safety factor of 200 percent built in."
FORMULA:
Torque at rear axles = Torque x First gear ratio x Rear gear ratio x 0.90