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gears? 3.73, 3.90, 4.10, oh my

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Old 06-25-2015, 10:03 AM
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Got rid of my wheel hop issues with a BRM TA alone.
Old 06-25-2015, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by scotty2000ss
Got rid of my wheel hop issues with a BRM TA alone.
I actually have to agree with that.. once I got my Spohn torque arm on (cross member mounted) it made a hell of a difference with keeping the car planted.
Old 06-25-2015, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by z28SSilvest
I actually have to agree with that.. once I got my Spohn torque arm on (cross member mounted) it made a hell of a difference with keeping the car planted.
Taking weight off the front end and airing the tires down helped me a ton too. LCA's were also great as well. Now that I can hook with the ET streets, I'm even more nervous about the 10 bolt
Old 06-25-2015, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by scotty2000ss
Taking weight off the front end and airing the tires down helped me a ton too. LCA's were also great as well. Now that I can hook with the ET streets, I'm even more nervous about the 10 bolt
Yeah I'd be nervous too. I blew the carrier on my 10 bolt about a month ago.. went straight to a 9 inch.

EDIT: I just saw you're cutting a 1.9 60 foot.. that's what I was doing on my 10 bolt and nittos before it went lol.
Old 06-25-2015, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by z28SSilvest
Yeah I'd be nervous too. I blew the carrier on my 10 bolt about a month ago.. went straight to a 9 inch.

EDIT: I just saw you're cutting a 1.9 60 foot.. that's what I was doing on my 10 bolt and nittos before it went lol.
Yea, the 1.9x is spinning pretty good too. It was when I had brand new NT555R's last year. Wasn't heating them up either. They sucked for me once I was over 370 RWHP.
Old 06-25-2015, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by scotty2000ss
Yea, the 1.9x is spinning pretty good too. It was when I had brand new NT555R's last year. Wasn't heating them up either. They sucked for me once I was over 370 RWHP.
Yea I was riding the hell out of my clutch when I ran an 11.8 lol. Whatever you do though, don't even bother modding the 10 bolt.
Old 06-25-2015, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by z28SSilvest
Yea I was riding the hell out of my clutch when I ran an 11.8 lol. Whatever you do though, don't even bother modding the 10 bolt.
I agree. Once I get my 11 sec slip, it's going up for sale lol.
Old 06-27-2015, 05:57 PM
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If you are worried about strength, have the ring and pinion "cryod" before installing.

http://www.cryotron.com/
Old 07-06-2015, 09:54 AM
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3.73 gears. Great all around
Old 07-06-2015, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 87blackbird
3.73 gears. Great all around
With a standard ratio, LS1 ('98-'02) f body T56, a set of 3.73s yields the same effective overall ratios as a C5 Z06's tighter ratio T56 (MN12?) with their standard 3.42 axle ratio.
Old 07-08-2015, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
With a standard ratio, LS1 ('98-'02) f body T56, a set of 3.73s yields the same effective overall ratios as a C5 Z06's tighter ratio T56 (MN12?) with their standard 3.42 axle ratio.
Thats a dangerously broad and incorrect statement. And the relevancy applies how im not sure....
Old 07-08-2015, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Thats a dangerously broad and incorrect statement. And the relevancy applies how im not sure....
How so?

This was according to Sam Strano, and obviously does not include the rear tire overall diameter differences into the equation.
Old 07-14-2015, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by z28SSilvest
You will at the very least want to put a new differential in it before swapping gears. My 10 bolt completely stock lasted about 10k miles with the horsepower I have now and a few soft launches at the track. With the new gears, you are going to get wheel hop like a mf, which is known to take 10 bolts out the first time.

I always say run it until it breaks, but if it's your daily driver, that might not be the best option.
Wheel hop is function of rear suspension geometry and part selection. It will tear stuff up though. Wheel hop will tear it up!
Old 07-14-2015, 10:23 AM
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3.90's are a good ratio. If I was you, I'd eliminate wheel hop VIA Tubular panhard bar (adjustable if lowered), Tubular rear LCA's, Torque arm, Poly bushings, and some subframes so you can terminate any signs of wheel hop. Then build it with a girdle for as much strength as you can, and do it. Keeping the rear end from moving around and adding a bit of reinforcement will make sure you get as much out of the weak 10-bolt as possible. Still skating on mine till 9" money comes lol

IF you are lowered, make sure you get LCA relocation brackets too. you want to either Hook or spin, but not wheel hop. And not hook too much for the 10 bolt's sake.



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