6spdg37s

iTrader: (1)

did 6 hard launch passes tonight on the 10 bolt with motive 4.10s so far so good fingers crossed lol

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

Put an R tire on it and place your order early for a new diff. If it goes on a hard shift going into 2nd and lock up the diff with busted gears and it will take out your drive. Ask me how I know? I had 400 rwhp then though, but lots have busted them up on stock power. I cracked my Torsen on stock hp.

6spdg37s

iTrader: (1)

lol I am on radials ... I plan to do the rear tho just gonna wait till i blow it first

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

If you have a manual transmission it is amazing it is still together. Bob

RockinWs6

The stock torsen carrier is too weak and will deform under power causing big damage. I've broke torsen carriers on the 1-2 shift A4, they are way under sized for fuel mileage. The Auburn carrier is very strong, can take a hell of a beating. BUT(there's always a but) I wouldn't install a Auburn in anything without having it balanced properly. They are heavy and NOT balanced from Auburn. I replaced a Torsen with a Auburn, immediately picked up a solid vibration in the rear that got worse the faster you went. @70 mph it shook the rear enough to notice, removing the auburn the vibration disappeared. I checked the Auburn carrier carefully and could not find any balancing marks. I called Auburn about it but their customer support was useless.

If you take the Auburn carrier with a good truss-girdle for the 10 bolt housing(so the case doesn't deform under power) the 10 bolt can live a long time.

Carl at CRP

iTrader: (9)

I've had customers running a stock v6 car call about replacing their broken 10-bolt!

Carl

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Ya know, ive been here a while, read a few responses, and even posted a few times too, and this response is THE dumbest thing ive ever read. As I lay down to go to sleep in a few minutes, I can only hope I have a heart attack in my sleep, never to awake, so I won't have to see this retarded post in the morning.

dannyz

To listen to some of these guy's you would think that as soon as you put it into "drive" the rear is going to blow up and send shrapnel flying for a hundred feet.
I have been running the 10 bolt now with mods in sig and have not had any issues whatsoever.
I know- I know- I know, everyone here has heard of someone, even V-6 cars, [ cough ] that has blown a 10 bolt.
And if you want to jump on the bandwagon and spend money on a 12 bolt or 9" rear to help you sleep better, have at it.
BUT, if your an A-4, and your 60' foot's are in the mid 1.5's or slower, save your money. If your rear is set up properly, you have nothing to worry about.
Don't let the doomsday prophets worry you.

dailydriver

+1 !

Even MORE SO if you only street drive it, NEVER EVER drag race it, and autocross/road race it EVEN WITH an M6!

The ONLY reason I personally would want to put up with the extra weight, higher power losses, inherent noise, and insane costs of a built 9 is to get the MUCH better choice of road race/handling capable diffs offered for that axle type (Platinum Trac, Wave Trac, etc.).

6spdg37s

iTrader: (1)

15+ hard launches on DR in with 349WHP and no issues yet other than that it has been leaking but it was leaking before I hit the track with it

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I've got a factory 10-bolt with the factory 3.42 gears, with a girdle and it is alive and fine in my 6-speed with a F1 procharged 416ls3. Granted, I don't track the car, but on the street it's fine. What kills a rear quickest is wheel hop. So sure, a stock car that wheel hops is going to grenade a rear pretty damn quick.

I've found that the more power you make, the less abuse the rear gets, especially on a street tire.

If I wanted to drag race the car, sure, I'd be investing in a better built rear, but for a street car, you are better to invest in good suspension to get rid of the wheel hop and your rear will last longer.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Your average vehicle is going to show no loss from swapping to a different rear end over the stock 10-bolt and we have outfitted our fabricated nine inch lighter than a stock 10-bolt.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

When I was in high school I grenaded a 7.5 diff in an astro van with a v6 with wheel hop. That outta explain that theory.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

What kills them isn't power, but the shock of load/unload/load etc etc.

My car doesn't wheel hop, and the tires break loose quicker thanks to more power.

Is it perfect, nope, but when it pops, I'll grab a new rear from the junkyard for $250 and keep on going.

SteveC

I respectfully disagree with this statement, YES the ring set is small (from chevy S10) HOWEVER if you have the ring and pinion "cryo'd", stud the main caps, and use a T/A girdle, you will add years of service to the rearend.

JMHO

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Those things definitely help, but you still have small axles in it. I think what they were getting at is when you go to a higher ratio gear, like a 4.10, the thickness of the ring gear gets even thinner, which makes it even weaker.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Thats the point. Aint no 1980s model astro van v6 making any kind of power, so if that can bust a 10 bolt during the wheel hop but a 10 bolt in a fbody ive seen pull the front tires up, its definitely not raw power that breaks them necessarily.

Captain Slow

Fully polished turd w/ 4:10's...Car will only see the street and road coarse. We'll see what happens.

dannyz

What you say may be true, but, that pile of cash that the nine inch cost's could be spent making more power.
You don't need a 9" rear unless your cutting better then then 1.5 short times.
That applies to A4's. Manual trans guy's should upgrade

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Some survive, others don't. I've sold well over a million dollars worth of Moser rears over the years, many of these rears went to people who told me spent quite a bit of money trying to beef up their 10 bolt rears, only to still have them break. The auto's do stand a better chance of surviving, but many of them do break. Bob