UK '99 Z28 A4 with unknown super tall gears...
#21
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Not under normal circumstances with a 2.73 or 3.23. The explosive acceleration of the stall upgrade greatly eclipses the feel of a common 3.73 swap with the stock stall, and a high quality converter in the mid-3k range won't feel too loose with either stock ratio. But the 2.41s and tuning issues change the situation in this case.
#22
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (26)
Now, combine the good converter with a 3600 or better stall and the 3.42 or 3.73 gear and you will wake it up like nobody's business.
Honestly for where you are going with this car I would suggest buying your own HP tuners or EFI Live. These operations will give you much more room to grow with the cars as your performance needs change, and there is a lot of support available for them too.
#23
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
A 3600 stall with 2.41s' will feel extremely 'loose'. Loose = slippage. Slippage = heat buildup. Don't even consider a 3600 stall with 2.41s' without adding a aftermarket/supplemental tranny fluid cooler. Heat will destroy the trans. A 3600 with 2.41s' would be an interesting TEMPORARY combo. I have many gearsets,including a 2.41 but I've never contemplated using them.
#25
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
Since you're used to the 2.41s' and since a 2.41 to 3.73 swap will increase torque to the rear wheels by 55%,it'll make your 99 Z28 310 rated horsepower feel like it has 480 horsepower. Not really a power increase but a incredible 'seat of the pants' boost with a very instantly throttle response.
#26
Since you're used to the 2.41s' and since a 2.41 to 3.73 swap will increase torque to the rear wheels by 55%,it'll make your 99 Z28 310 rated horsepower feel like it has 480 horsepower. Not really a power increase but a incredible 'seat of the pants' boost with a very instantly throttle response.
#28
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
Evidently you've decided to do 3.73s' first. Since you have a series 2 carrier(for 2.41,2.73,3.08),you're gonna need a 3.73 'thick' gearset which is made for series 2 carriers. A 'regular' 3 series gearset would need a 'ring gear spacer' to have the 3 series gearset useable with a 2 series carrier. The 'spacer' situation is to be avoided. 'Thick' gears are available in 3.42,3.73,and 4.10. 3.73s' seem to be the popular consensus as the best ratio to use with an automatic.
You were also discussing a 'convertor. A Yank SS3600(or equivalent from another manufacturer) with 3.73s' again seems to be the most popular combination for autos. A convertor,because of its' 'flash' rating(stall rpm) will put you immediately into a higher part of the engines' powerband instead of having to climb thru the lower horsepower part of it.
for reference:
You were also discussing a 'convertor. A Yank SS3600(or equivalent from another manufacturer) with 3.73s' again seems to be the most popular combination for autos. A convertor,because of its' 'flash' rating(stall rpm) will put you immediately into a higher part of the engines' powerband instead of having to climb thru the lower horsepower part of it.
for reference:
#29
I might start a thread with some pics of the Z28 in the general 4th Gen forum section and put in a couple of other car pics, past and present
Yes, gears seem like a better idea rather than a stall with the 2.41 based on what people have been saying. I think I'll definitely enjoy the car more and can stall it later. I found a shop a couple of hours away from me that can do the 3.73 swap and would be using Motive 2 Series gears for the job.
I'm excited about driving it with the 3.73s, let alone a stall! Have been avoiding taking any of my car friends out for a ride in it at the moment as they'd be seriously underwhelmed with the performance... A Yank 3600 is one of the converters I was looking at for next year The car's got some awful Kumho tires on the back at the moment, though, and it struggles to put the power down with the 2.41 through 295s, so I'll definitely need new rubber with the 3.73s. At least I can give these a good send off!
Evidently you've decided to do 3.73s' first. Since you have a series 2 carrier(for 2.41,2.73,3.08),you're gonna need a 3.73 'thick' gearset which is made for series 2 carriers. A 'regular' 3 series gearset would need a 'ring gear spacer' to have the 3 series gearset useable with a 2 series carrier. The 'spacer' situation is to be avoided. 'Thick' gears are available in 3.42,3.73,and 4.10. 3.73s' seem to be the popular consensus as the best ratio to use with an automatic.
You were also discussing a 'convertor. A Yank SS3600(or equivalent from another manufacturer) with 3.73s' again seems to be the most popular combination for autos. A convertor,because of its' 'flash' rating(stall rpm) will put you immediately into a higher part of the engines' powerband instead of having to climb thru the lower horsepower part of it.
for reference:
You were also discussing a 'convertor. A Yank SS3600(or equivalent from another manufacturer) with 3.73s' again seems to be the most popular combination for autos. A convertor,because of its' 'flash' rating(stall rpm) will put you immediately into a higher part of the engines' powerband instead of having to climb thru the lower horsepower part of it.
for reference:
I'm excited about driving it with the 3.73s, let alone a stall! Have been avoiding taking any of my car friends out for a ride in it at the moment as they'd be seriously underwhelmed with the performance... A Yank 3600 is one of the converters I was looking at for next year The car's got some awful Kumho tires on the back at the moment, though, and it struggles to put the power down with the 2.41 through 295s, so I'll definitely need new rubber with the 3.73s. At least I can give these a good send off!
#30
TECH Junkie
I might start a thread with some pics of the Z28 in the general 4th Gen forum section and put in a couple of other car pics, past and present
Yes, gears seem like a better idea rather than a stall with the 2.41 based on what people have been saying. I think I'll definitely enjoy the car more and can stall it later. I found a shop a couple of hours away from me that can do the 3.73 swap and would be using Motive 2 Series gears for the job.
I'm excited about driving it with the 3.73s, let alone a stall! Have been avoiding taking any of my car friends out for a ride in it at the moment as they'd be seriously underwhelmed with the performance... A Yank 3600 is one of the converters I was looking at for next year The car's got some awful Kumho tires on the back at the moment, though, and it struggles to put the power down with the 2.41 through 295s, so I'll definitely need new rubber with the 3.73s. At least I can give these a good send off!
Yes, gears seem like a better idea rather than a stall with the 2.41 based on what people have been saying. I think I'll definitely enjoy the car more and can stall it later. I found a shop a couple of hours away from me that can do the 3.73 swap and would be using Motive 2 Series gears for the job.
I'm excited about driving it with the 3.73s, let alone a stall! Have been avoiding taking any of my car friends out for a ride in it at the moment as they'd be seriously underwhelmed with the performance... A Yank 3600 is one of the converters I was looking at for next year The car's got some awful Kumho tires on the back at the moment, though, and it struggles to put the power down with the 2.41 through 295s, so I'll definitely need new rubber with the 3.73s. At least I can give these a good send off!
#31
Is there are particular gear set and install kit you guys would recommend? Summit's gear set is the cheapest ($160 I think), but is it worth spending another $40 to get a Motive set?
#32
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
3.73s' with a stall won't be too much. 3.73s' with a Yank SS3600(for example),you'll jump immediately into a good part of the powerband(done by the stall) and then climb quickly thru the gears(caused by the 3.73 gears) while staying in the good part of the powerband. With the stall,also plan on a aftermarket tranny fluid cooler.
I ran 4.56s' with stall for 4 years,incredibly wicked 1st and 2nd gear.
Definitely the Motives.
Since the gears are next and then a stall,you should also start discussing suspension. The increased torque to the rear wheels will increase lack of traction. Good rear shocks to control 'wheel hop'(the major cause of broken rear ends) and Lower Control Arm Re-location Brackets to aid in forward traction. Middle hole for neutral(currently LCA angle increases lack of traction) and lower hole for traction enhancement.
I ran 4.56s' with stall for 4 years,incredibly wicked 1st and 2nd gear.
Definitely the Motives.
Since the gears are next and then a stall,you should also start discussing suspension. The increased torque to the rear wheels will increase lack of traction. Good rear shocks to control 'wheel hop'(the major cause of broken rear ends) and Lower Control Arm Re-location Brackets to aid in forward traction. Middle hole for neutral(currently LCA angle increases lack of traction) and lower hole for traction enhancement.
#34
TECH Junkie
3.73s' with a stall won't be too much. 3.73s' with a Yank SS3600(for example),you'll jump immediately into a good part of the powerband(done by the stall) and then climb quickly thru the gears(caused by the 3.73 gears) while staying in the good part of the powerband. With the stall,also plan on a aftermarket tranny fluid cooler.
I ran 4.56s' with stall for 4 years,incredibly wicked 1st and 2nd gear.
Definitely the Motives.
Since the gears are next and then a stall,you should also start discussing suspension. The increased torque to the rear wheels will increase lack of traction. Good rear shocks to control 'wheel hop'(the major cause of broken rear ends) and Lower Control Arm Re-location Brackets to aid in forward traction. Middle hole for neutral(currently LCA angle increases lack of traction) and lower hole for traction enhancement.
I ran 4.56s' with stall for 4 years,incredibly wicked 1st and 2nd gear.
Definitely the Motives.
Since the gears are next and then a stall,you should also start discussing suspension. The increased torque to the rear wheels will increase lack of traction. Good rear shocks to control 'wheel hop'(the major cause of broken rear ends) and Lower Control Arm Re-location Brackets to aid in forward traction. Middle hole for neutral(currently LCA angle increases lack of traction) and lower hole for traction enhancement.
#35
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
"Did you have your 4.56's in a 10 bolt? "
YES,7.5/7.625 GM 10 bolt ! The 4.56s' are a used Richmond set that I picked up at a swap meet for $25. Even took 4 trips from Ohio to Florida with the 4.56s'.
That assembled rear end is crying to be put back in. I work on rear ends,I don't change gears,I change the complete rear end. Set it up on the bench instead of under the car. Only a couple hours to swap rears. I'm 68 and do it alone. Currently have the rebuilt OEM 3.23 rear in the car,building a 4.10 rear.
YES,7.5/7.625 GM 10 bolt ! The 4.56s' are a used Richmond set that I picked up at a swap meet for $25. Even took 4 trips from Ohio to Florida with the 4.56s'.
That assembled rear end is crying to be put back in. I work on rear ends,I don't change gears,I change the complete rear end. Set it up on the bench instead of under the car. Only a couple hours to swap rears. I'm 68 and do it alone. Currently have the rebuilt OEM 3.23 rear in the car,building a 4.10 rear.
#36
TECH Junkie
"Did you have your 4.56's in a 10 bolt? "
YES,7.5/7.625 GM 10 bolt ! The 4.56s' are a used Richmond set that I picked up at a swap meet for $25. Even took 4 trips from Ohio to Florida with the 4.56s'.
That assembled rear end is crying to be put back in. I work on rear ends,I don't change gears,I change the complete rear end. Set it up on the bench instead of under the car. Only a couple hours to swap rears. I'm 68 and do it alone. Currently have the rebuilt OEM 3.23 rear in the car,building a 4.10 rear.
YES,7.5/7.625 GM 10 bolt ! The 4.56s' are a used Richmond set that I picked up at a swap meet for $25. Even took 4 trips from Ohio to Florida with the 4.56s'.
That assembled rear end is crying to be put back in. I work on rear ends,I don't change gears,I change the complete rear end. Set it up on the bench instead of under the car. Only a couple hours to swap rears. I'm 68 and do it alone. Currently have the rebuilt OEM 3.23 rear in the car,building a 4.10 rear.
#38
3.73s' with a stall won't be too much. 3.73s' with a Yank SS3600(for example),you'll jump immediately into a good part of the powerband(done by the stall) and then climb quickly thru the gears(caused by the 3.73 gears) while staying in the good part of the powerband. With the stall,also plan on a aftermarket tranny fluid cooler.
I ran 4.56s' with stall for 4 years,incredibly wicked 1st and 2nd gear.
Definitely the Motives.
Since the gears are next and then a stall,you should also start discussing suspension. The increased torque to the rear wheels will increase lack of traction. Good rear shocks to control 'wheel hop'(the major cause of broken rear ends) and Lower Control Arm Re-location Brackets to aid in forward traction. Middle hole for neutral(currently LCA angle increases lack of traction) and lower hole for traction enhancement.
I ran 4.56s' with stall for 4 years,incredibly wicked 1st and 2nd gear.
Definitely the Motives.
Since the gears are next and then a stall,you should also start discussing suspension. The increased torque to the rear wheels will increase lack of traction. Good rear shocks to control 'wheel hop'(the major cause of broken rear ends) and Lower Control Arm Re-location Brackets to aid in forward traction. Middle hole for neutral(currently LCA angle increases lack of traction) and lower hole for traction enhancement.
No worries My nearest strip is about 2 hours away so it's not going to be a regular there, I just want to enjoy it on the street, so hopefully the diff will hold up ok...