Pro/Cons of going 8.8
#1
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Pro/Cons of going 8.8
Looks like I can put in a almost bullet proof 8.8 for under $1500.
Want something that will handle the power 600-700 rwhp automatic without breaking the bank.
Lets hear the pros/cons of the 8.8 in my 2000 trans am or other options under 2k
Thanks
Want something that will handle the power 600-700 rwhp automatic without breaking the bank.
Lets hear the pros/cons of the 8.8 in my 2000 trans am or other options under 2k
Thanks
#4
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OP - As was mentioned there are millions of Exploder & Ranger 8.8s in the boneyards. Also since they put 8.8s in Mustangs there are lots of aftermarket & OEM parts out there on the cheap. When done properly a weld-on TA mount is very stout. Note that the 8.8 housing is cast from 'nodular' or 'ductile' iron vs. conventional cast iron or gray iron.
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I personally think the 12 bolt is a better option in the long run. I dont like the smaller tubes/ends they put on the 8.8, and dont really care for the welded TA mounts either. With the 12 bolt you can get a new housing with big bearing ends and a casted torque arm mount for about 1500 then fill it with whatever you want.
#6
Not all 8.8's came with the small axle tubes...
Mustang/T-Bird 8.8 housing came with the small 2-3/4" dia tubes.
Crown Vic housings came with 3" dia tubes.
Ranger 8.8 housing came with tubes that had 3-1/4" dia at the housing, but the tubes necked down to the small pass car size 1.40" id outer bearing.
Explorer and F150 8.8 housings came with 3-1/4" tubes and large 1.625 id outer bearings (larger than the 1.564" id "large" 9" bearing).
If you are building an 8.8 hybrid with 9" ends, use a Crown Vic or F150 housing. You get larger axle tubes and you don't have to fight the Mustang guys for them.
Mustang/T-Bird 8.8 housing came with the small 2-3/4" dia tubes.
Crown Vic housings came with 3" dia tubes.
Ranger 8.8 housing came with tubes that had 3-1/4" dia at the housing, but the tubes necked down to the small pass car size 1.40" id outer bearing.
Explorer and F150 8.8 housings came with 3-1/4" tubes and large 1.625 id outer bearings (larger than the 1.564" id "large" 9" bearing).
If you are building an 8.8 hybrid with 9" ends, use a Crown Vic or F150 housing. You get larger axle tubes and you don't have to fight the Mustang guys for them.
#7
There's also the low buck 9" style axle conversion for the 8.8. It basically uses two short side 31 spline Explorer axles, with the bearing surface turned down to 1.564" to accept 9" bearings/retainers. You need to install 9" ends on the axle tubes, so you don't need c-clip eliminators and can remove the c-clip "buttons" from the ends of the Explorer axles. Removing the c-clips also allows you to run a spool, the downside to this low buck conversion is that you are limited to an axle flange to axle flange width of about 56-1/2". Oem style rotors would add appx 1/4" per side.
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#10
Are used gears usually noisy and harder to install? Do you just try and match up the wear pattern as best as you can?
#14
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You won't be disappointed, Josh does good work.
OP - As was mentioned there are millions of Exploder & Ranger 8.8s in the boneyards. Also since they put 8.8s in Mustangs there are lots of aftermarket & OEM parts out there on the cheap. When done properly a weld-on TA mount is very stout. Note that the 8.8 housing is cast from 'nodular' or 'ductile' iron vs. conventional cast iron or gray iron.
OP - As was mentioned there are millions of Exploder & Ranger 8.8s in the boneyards. Also since they put 8.8s in Mustangs there are lots of aftermarket & OEM parts out there on the cheap. When done properly a weld-on TA mount is very stout. Note that the 8.8 housing is cast from 'nodular' or 'ductile' iron vs. conventional cast iron or gray iron.
#15
#17
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I'll be going this route eventually. My buddy has one in his '86 IROC 6.0 LSx car. It's got all the toys. New diff, gears, strange axles etc. Our other buddy was the one who set it up and has some sort of record with his car using a similar 8.8 hybrid. Final costs were around $1200-$1400 all in.