driveshaft length difference
#3
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
You can. I just went through this. Get the driveshaft built with 1350 ujoints. While still on the 10 bolt use a 1350/3r conversion joint at the 10 bolt. When you get the 9" get it built with a long 1350 yoke(this will make the driveshaft work because the 9" with standard yoke it normally requires a 1 inch longer driveshaft). Then all you will need to do is put a standard 1350 ujoint back in the end if the driveshaft.
#4
TECH Enthusiast
I ran a Th400/9 inch Pst shaft with my 10 bolt, it was close but not tight enough to worry about, had to get it shortened 3/4 of an inch when I switched to the 12 bolt
#5
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
You can. I just went through this. Get the driveshaft built with 1350 ujoints. While still on the 10 bolt use a 1350/3r conversion joint at the 10 bolt. When you get the 9" get it built with a long 1350 yoke(this will make the driveshaft work because the 9" with standard yoke it normally requires a 1 inch longer driveshaft). Then all you will need to do is put a standard 1350 ujoint back in the end if the driveshaft.
#6
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
I just used a long 1350 yoke from quick performance. I did this because my drive shaft had already been built for the 10 bolt. I did not want to use a conversion ujoint so I had the end cut off and 1350 weld on yoke and u joint installed. But with the extended yoke the drive shaft had to remain the exact same length. If I had gotten a standard 9 inch 1350 yoke my driveshaft would have been an inch to short.
#7
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
Thanks. I'm in the same boat. My 3.5" was built for the 10-bolt but came with a 1350 U-joint. I thought I might goto a 12-bolt (so same length), but I'm pretty much set on a 9" now so I'll never have to buy another rearend. But I don't want to spend another $500 when I have a perfectly good driveshaft.