IronThomas

I can officially say I am the owner of a custom 9"! Made the order this week of what should be a pretty nice setup, finally.


QuickPerformance new, fabricated housing
Back brace
Internal Gussetting
Fabricated center
Moser 35 Spline Axles, gundrilled
Lightened axle flanges
1/2 20x2" studs
Yukon Nodular Iron Center section
Motive 3.50
35 HD Spool
Aluminum Daytona Pinion Support
Billet Steel 1350 Yoke


I really wanted to go with a True Trac, but.. for right now, spending that 700 bucks elsewhere was more important to me.


I want to hear from you guys that drive spools, what are some techniques, lessons learned, advice etc. Is it really as big a deal as everyone says? I figured it was probably easier to go with a spool behind a T56 than a Detroit locker.


Also, anyone have a part number for what U-joint I need? And as far as the install, is there any tools or presses that I will need that aren't common? I've got a pretty big tool inventory and know my way around an F-body. The only thing I haven't done myself is the 4.10 install in the 10 bolt.


I'll post pictures when it arrives, may be a few weeks though..


Thanks in advanced!

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Give yourself a lot of extra room to make a u turn, as if you have a 32ft long trailer behind you. Really, the only time I've ever noticed the spool is when turning in intersections. I've tried parallel parking with a spool, you can't do it like they taught you in Drivers Ed but it can be done.

In wet weather, make sure to slow your speed down if you're on twisty roads. Bob

IronThomas

Too easy! *knock on wood* thanks Bob! Just what I wanted to hear


Anyone have a PN for a U joint. Maybe recommend some gear oil

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

You're welcome.

Napa 447 is the conversion u joint to mate the stock driveshaft to a 1350 yoke. Keep in mind though that a 9 inch typically needs a one inch longer driveshaft to be engaged into the transmission as far as it should be.
Napa 80/90 weight non synthetic gear oil is cheap and does the job. Bob

SteenH

You upgraded by going to the spool right off the bat. Other than U turns you'll hardly even notice it. Enjoy it!!

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Only time I notice it is when you make right hand turns at interections or turning in/out of driveways/parking spots. Youll notice from a stop it takes more throttle to get moving to overcome the tires. I dont drive my car in the rain so I cant speak for that but I would just be catious and go easy and it should be fine.

jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

Spool here no problem. Just take turns as wide as possible. I would not use gun drilled axles on the street or lightened axle flanges. What I would consider is having the flanges drilled for stock I believe .509" knurl and for 5/8" studs and going with the 5/8 studs. In my opinion they are a huge piece of mind for driving the spool on the street a lot.

jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

Also if it's a stock drive shaft and trans, get it with the long 1350 yoke or your drive shaft will be too short.

IronThomas

If I go with the 5/8" stud, I'm assuming I'll have to drill my racestars for it..

decisions.. and they're probably already building it

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

Never noticed much difference on curves. If the road isn't straight just understand the rear tires are breaking loose. If you don't have a front sway bar be extra careful getting off the throttle because it might put you into a spin.

Best advice I can offer is bring some traffic cones to a big abandoned parking lot and waste some crap tires getting to know how your car will react to random events.

Parking lots suck ***, driveway will have tire marks pulling in and out, neighborhood turns have tire marks, and you can park it by locking the front wheels all the way to either side. The steering lock causing the rear end bind is my only parking brake lol

Regarding turns from a stop and u-turns, give it some gas and she'll come around lol

IronThomas

Hey thanks everybody, good to know!

Also, for anyone in the same boat as me, I went ahead and got the axles drilled for 5/8" studs. My racestars won't fit, but I spoke to the wheel designer from Racestar and the said that drill the centers 1.31", using the same depth diameter in order to make them fit will not degrade the integrity of the wheel.

dailydriver

I'm guessing there's no 'safety' inspection in Tejas??

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

Sure there is. Law requires a "parking brake" and no mention of emergency brake (new cars with electronic parking brakes don't have an e-brake).

Once the front wheels lock over there is no way any person will push the car hard enough to break traction of 11" wide slicks or drag radials.

juniorssrollin

iTrader: (1)

I will soon be able to add some info here

dailydriver

THAT would NOT fly here in Pennsyltuckey!

The f'ing privatized inspection shops would try and get you to have them install the factory set up for ~$1500.00+ after failing you for not having one.

jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

Don't drill your wheels until the studs arrive. I though I saw somebody say their race stars fit over the 5/8 studs.

IronThomas

Just sold them to someone on here. Just going to go with Welds now

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

4 grown men couldnt push the car with the front tires turned.