Moser 12-bolt install and ownership issues
07-16-2016, 12:24 PM
#1
Moser 12-bolt install and ownership issues I'm writing this post in order to inform potential buyers as to what they're getting into before getting a 12-bolt rear from Moser.
First, let me say that I'm pretty happy with my 12-bolt after having it for about two months. However, there are some things I wish Moser had done differently that would have made things easier.
I bought a '01 Firebird Formula with a bad pinion bearing in the 10-bolt and called up Moser to get a 12-bolt rear with 33 spline axles, a 1350 pinion yoke and 3.73 TruTrac gears. I decided to reuse the brakes off my 10-bolt instead of buying new backing plates.
When the rear showed up, I decided to paint it before install. High humidity made this a few day process. Then I went to install only to realize my mistake; I still needed to get the backing plates on the axle shafts and get the bearings pressed on. That added another $85 to the project by having a local shop press them for me.
I simultaneously realized I needed to have a conversion style u-joint put on the driveshaft. I decided to have the driveshaft professionally gone through and converted. That added another $139.
Then I installed everything in the car, but couldn't mount the sway bar without another trip to the parts store where I had to buy 3" muffler brackets and rig them to hold my sway bar. More money and time.
After spending around $3500 on the swap, I still ended up having to notch the housing cover to accept my e-brake cable guides and zip-tied my brake lines because the housing doesn't come with tabs for the brake lines.
Moser also sent new bolts with cam lock washers for mounting the torque arm. I used them because the stock bolts won't work. The bolts were a bit too long for use with a stock torque arm and bottomed out. I added two washers to make up the difference. The bolts in the bottom worked themselves out. The result was the rear end torqueing down on deceleration, which cracked the torque arm (still held in by the top bolts), hammered the end of the torque which made one of the holes D-shaped, and put grooves in the end of the driveshaft from being at an extreme angle and meeting the pinion yoke.
I'm ordering a new tunnel mounted torque arm and will hunt down replacement bolts. This time I will not trust the cam locks and will simply use a thread locker and a lock washer.
Keeping in mind that anytime you get away from using OEM parts you're going to have some issues. However, I think Moser could have made this "Bolt-in ready" rear end a bit more bolt-in ready. All they'd have had to do is:
-send bolts that fit for use of stock torque arms
-offer to include a conversion style u-joint
-include new sway bar brackets
-pre-notch the diff cover
-install brake line tabs
Again, I'm still happy with my purchase. I think it's a well built, tough rear end. But, stating this rear end is bolt-in ready is just not true.
In some ways, however, maybe I should be grateful. Because of the bolts backing out and destroying the torque arm my wife gave me the green light for ordering a BMR replacement.
First, let me say that I'm pretty happy with my 12-bolt after having it for about two months. However, there are some things I wish Moser had done differently that would have made things easier.
I bought a '01 Firebird Formula with a bad pinion bearing in the 10-bolt and called up Moser to get a 12-bolt rear with 33 spline axles, a 1350 pinion yoke and 3.73 TruTrac gears. I decided to reuse the brakes off my 10-bolt instead of buying new backing plates.
When the rear showed up, I decided to paint it before install. High humidity made this a few day process. Then I went to install only to realize my mistake; I still needed to get the backing plates on the axle shafts and get the bearings pressed on. That added another $85 to the project by having a local shop press them for me.
I simultaneously realized I needed to have a conversion style u-joint put on the driveshaft. I decided to have the driveshaft professionally gone through and converted. That added another $139.
Then I installed everything in the car, but couldn't mount the sway bar without another trip to the parts store where I had to buy 3" muffler brackets and rig them to hold my sway bar. More money and time.
After spending around $3500 on the swap, I still ended up having to notch the housing cover to accept my e-brake cable guides and zip-tied my brake lines because the housing doesn't come with tabs for the brake lines.
Moser also sent new bolts with cam lock washers for mounting the torque arm. I used them because the stock bolts won't work. The bolts were a bit too long for use with a stock torque arm and bottomed out. I added two washers to make up the difference. The bolts in the bottom worked themselves out. The result was the rear end torqueing down on deceleration, which cracked the torque arm (still held in by the top bolts), hammered the end of the torque which made one of the holes D-shaped, and put grooves in the end of the driveshaft from being at an extreme angle and meeting the pinion yoke.
I'm ordering a new tunnel mounted torque arm and will hunt down replacement bolts. This time I will not trust the cam locks and will simply use a thread locker and a lock washer.
Keeping in mind that anytime you get away from using OEM parts you're going to have some issues. However, I think Moser could have made this "Bolt-in ready" rear end a bit more bolt-in ready. All they'd have had to do is:
-send bolts that fit for use of stock torque arms
-offer to include a conversion style u-joint
-include new sway bar brackets
-pre-notch the diff cover
-install brake line tabs
Again, I'm still happy with my purchase. I think it's a well built, tough rear end. But, stating this rear end is bolt-in ready is just not true.
In some ways, however, maybe I should be grateful. Because of the bolts backing out and destroying the torque arm my wife gave me the green light for ordering a BMR replacement.
07-16-2016, 12:34 PM
#2
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Lots of these are common issues but yes frustrating if you arent aware of them beforehand. Moser is known to have those bolts back out which is why I bought Strange, which uses single through bolts just like stock. Overall though you will be glad you made the swap, it's worth it.
07-16-2016, 11:13 PM
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I guess its kinda cliche if you think about it. If someone wants a direct replacement stock part, they might buy a rebuilt Jasper 10 bolt, and that would literally fit like stock (cause it is). When you step out of that realm and move to a 12, 9", or s60 you quite simply arent your average buyer looking for a replacement part. You are spending a premium price for an above stock grade item, and those purchases are usually made after adequate research or talking to someone knowledgeable. Then would be the time you would find out about the installation quirks that come along with the upgrade. Averave company isnt gonna list those details in a catalog because it could drive potential buyers away.
07-17-2016, 02:00 AM
#7
TECH Enthusiast
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
I guess its kinda cliche if you think about it. If someone wants a direct replacement stock part, they might buy a rebuilt Jasper 10 bolt, and that would literally fit like stock (cause it is). When you step out of that realm and move to a 12, 9", or s60 you quite simply arent your average buyer looking for a replacement part. You are spending a premium price for an above stock grade item, and those purchases are usually made after adequate research or talking to someone knowledgeable. Then would be the time you would find out about the installation quirks that come along with the upgrade. Averave company isnt gonna list those details in a catalog because it could drive potential buyers away.
Most of this is a non issue. It would also be extremely silly to provide the conversion u-joint considering the fact that most people upgrade rears for strength (ditching the stock driveshaft in the process)
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07-17-2016, 08:04 AM
#8
Your points are legitimate. I guess the average buyer is the guy who's replacing everything at the same time. I guess I'm not the average buyer.
I replaced my rear because the stock one needed work and it provided a good excuse to upgrade in preparation for future mods. But, I don't plan on replacing the driveshaft until I put a stronger transmission in.
All in all, I'm happy with the setup. Just thought I'd put my experience out there to prep other guys ahead of doing a similar swap with the main concern being to not trust cam-lock washers. Good old thread locker and a lock washer FTW.
I replaced my rear because the stock one needed work and it provided a good excuse to upgrade in preparation for future mods. But, I don't plan on replacing the driveshaft until I put a stronger transmission in.
All in all, I'm happy with the setup. Just thought I'd put my experience out there to prep other guys ahead of doing a similar swap with the main concern being to not trust cam-lock washers. Good old thread locker and a lock washer FTW.
07-19-2016, 05:55 AM
#9
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-12-...fferential.htm
I include the sway bar brackets for free when you order a Moser 12 bolt from me. Bob
I include the sway bar brackets for free when you order a Moser 12 bolt from me. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
07-20-2016, 11:33 AM
#10
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I'm writing this post in order to inform potential buyers as to what they're getting into before getting a 12-bolt rear from Moser.
First, let me say that I'm pretty happy with my 12-bolt after having it for about two months. However, there are some things I wish Moser had done differently that would have made things easier.
I bought a '01 Firebird Formula with a bad pinion bearing in the 10-bolt and called up Moser to get a 12-bolt rear with 33 spline axles, a 1350 pinion yoke and 3.73 TruTrac gears. I decided to reuse the brakes off my 10-bolt instead of buying new backing plates.
When the rear showed up, I decided to paint it before install. High humidity made this a few day process. Then I went to install only to realize my mistake; I still needed to get the backing plates on the axle shafts and get the bearings pressed on. That added another $85 to the project by having a local shop press them for me.
I simultaneously realized I needed to have a conversion style u-joint put on the driveshaft. I decided to have the driveshaft professionally gone through and converted. That added another $139.
Then I installed everything in the car, but couldn't mount the sway bar without another trip to the parts store where I had to buy 3" muffler brackets and rig them to hold my sway bar. More money and time.
After spending around $3500 on the swap, I still ended up having to notch the housing cover to accept my e-brake cable guides and zip-tied my brake lines because the housing doesn't come with tabs for the brake lines.
Moser also sent new bolts with cam lock washers for mounting the torque arm. I used them because the stock bolts won't work. The bolts were a bit too long for use with a stock torque arm and bottomed out. I added two washers to make up the difference. The bolts in the bottom worked themselves out. The result was the rear end torqueing down on deceleration, which cracked the torque arm (still held in by the top bolts), hammered the end of the torque which made one of the holes D-shaped, and put grooves in the end of the driveshaft from being at an extreme angle and meeting the pinion yoke.
I'm ordering a new tunnel mounted torque arm and will hunt down replacement bolts. This time I will not trust the cam locks and will simply use a thread locker and a lock washer.
Keeping in mind that anytime you get away from using OEM parts you're going to have some issues. However, I think Moser could have made this "Bolt-in ready" rear end a bit more bolt-in ready. All they'd have had to do is:
-send bolts that fit for use of stock torque arms
-offer to include a conversion style u-joint
-include new sway bar brackets
-pre-notch the diff cover
-install brake line tabs
Again, I'm still happy with my purchase. I think it's a well built, tough rear end. But, stating this rear end is bolt-in ready is just not true.
In some ways, however, maybe I should be grateful. Because of the bolts backing out and destroying the torque arm my wife gave me the green light for ordering a BMR replacement.
First, let me say that I'm pretty happy with my 12-bolt after having it for about two months. However, there are some things I wish Moser had done differently that would have made things easier.
I bought a '01 Firebird Formula with a bad pinion bearing in the 10-bolt and called up Moser to get a 12-bolt rear with 33 spline axles, a 1350 pinion yoke and 3.73 TruTrac gears. I decided to reuse the brakes off my 10-bolt instead of buying new backing plates.
When the rear showed up, I decided to paint it before install. High humidity made this a few day process. Then I went to install only to realize my mistake; I still needed to get the backing plates on the axle shafts and get the bearings pressed on. That added another $85 to the project by having a local shop press them for me.
I simultaneously realized I needed to have a conversion style u-joint put on the driveshaft. I decided to have the driveshaft professionally gone through and converted. That added another $139.
Then I installed everything in the car, but couldn't mount the sway bar without another trip to the parts store where I had to buy 3" muffler brackets and rig them to hold my sway bar. More money and time.
After spending around $3500 on the swap, I still ended up having to notch the housing cover to accept my e-brake cable guides and zip-tied my brake lines because the housing doesn't come with tabs for the brake lines.
Moser also sent new bolts with cam lock washers for mounting the torque arm. I used them because the stock bolts won't work. The bolts were a bit too long for use with a stock torque arm and bottomed out. I added two washers to make up the difference. The bolts in the bottom worked themselves out. The result was the rear end torqueing down on deceleration, which cracked the torque arm (still held in by the top bolts), hammered the end of the torque which made one of the holes D-shaped, and put grooves in the end of the driveshaft from being at an extreme angle and meeting the pinion yoke.
I'm ordering a new tunnel mounted torque arm and will hunt down replacement bolts. This time I will not trust the cam locks and will simply use a thread locker and a lock washer.
Keeping in mind that anytime you get away from using OEM parts you're going to have some issues. However, I think Moser could have made this "Bolt-in ready" rear end a bit more bolt-in ready. All they'd have had to do is:
-send bolts that fit for use of stock torque arms
-offer to include a conversion style u-joint
-include new sway bar brackets
-pre-notch the diff cover
-install brake line tabs
Again, I'm still happy with my purchase. I think it's a well built, tough rear end. But, stating this rear end is bolt-in ready is just not true.
In some ways, however, maybe I should be grateful. Because of the bolts backing out and destroying the torque arm my wife gave me the green light for ordering a BMR replacement.
Seems all to familiar...
I did my research when I bought a rearend a few years ago, and the Midwest Chassis 9" was by far the best choice. I looked at several different rearends and none of them compared. It was a full bolt in setup, and had all new grade 8 hardware so no trips to the hardware store were needed to get it installed. It came with multiple hole LCA brackets, sway bar brackets installed, brake line tabs installed, even had the e-brake cable brackets installed and a small bracket to hold the brake hose off the car. When you spend over 3k on a rearend and then need muffler clamps and zip ties to install it... wow.
Sad to see you spent 3500 on a 12 bolt that has known issues. I too spent 3500.00 and got a top notch rearend package with powdercoating, backbrace, and a 35 spline Truetrac posi. It also came with a chromoly adjustable torque arm included, definitely no worries about bolts coming loose or any failures.
07-20-2016, 11:39 AM
#11
Seems all to familiar...
I did my research when I bought a rearend a few years ago, and the Midwest Chassis 9" was by far the best choice. I looked at several different rearends and none of them compared. It was a full bolt in setup, and had all new grade 8 hardware so no trips to the hardware store were needed to get it installed. It came with multiple hole LCA brackets, sway bar brackets installed, brake line tabs installed, even had the e-brake cable brackets installed and a small bracket to hold the brake hose off the car. When you spend over 3k on a rearend and then need muffler clamps and zip ties to install it... wow.
Sad to see you spent 3500 on a 12 bolt that has known issues. I too spent 3500.00 and got a top notch rearend package with powdercoating, backbrace, and a 35 spline Truetrac posi. It also came with a chromoly adjustable torque arm included, definitely no worries about bolts coming loose or any failures.
I did my research when I bought a rearend a few years ago, and the Midwest Chassis 9" was by far the best choice. I looked at several different rearends and none of them compared. It was a full bolt in setup, and had all new grade 8 hardware so no trips to the hardware store were needed to get it installed. It came with multiple hole LCA brackets, sway bar brackets installed, brake line tabs installed, even had the e-brake cable brackets installed and a small bracket to hold the brake hose off the car. When you spend over 3k on a rearend and then need muffler clamps and zip ties to install it... wow.
Sad to see you spent 3500 on a 12 bolt that has known issues. I too spent 3500.00 and got a top notch rearend package with powdercoating, backbrace, and a 35 spline Truetrac posi. It also came with a chromoly adjustable torque arm included, definitely no worries about bolts coming loose or any failures.
They are no longer a vendor.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-M9-...y-Complete.htm
The Moser M9 is an excellent fabricated 9 inch that comes with a very nice chromoly torque arm and transmission crossmember.
Carl at CRP is a vendor on here and he builds an excellent fabricated 9 inch as well. Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
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E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
07-26-2016, 01:38 AM
#12
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http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-12-...fferential.htm
I include the sway bar brackets for free when you order a Moser 12 bolt from me. Bob
I include the sway bar brackets for free when you order a Moser 12 bolt from me. Bob
do you sell them separately?
Thanks to OP.... weirdly enough..Im installing my Moser 12 right now and just caught this thread. I will definitely pay attention to the torque arm bolts.. Thank You.
07-26-2016, 05:16 AM
#13
Yes I do, they are at the above link. Thanks. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
01-18-2017, 07:11 PM
#15
12-bolt moser. I'm writing this post in order to inform potential buyers as to what they're getting into before getting a 12-bolt rear from Moser.
First, let me say that I'm pretty happy with my 12-bolt after having it for about two months. However, there are some things I wish Moser had done differently that would have made things easier.
I bought a '01 Firebird Formula with a bad pinion bearing in the 10-bolt and called up Moser to get a 12-bolt rear with 33 spline axles, a 1350 pinion yoke and 3.73 TruTrac gears. I decided to reuse the brakes off my 10-bolt instead of buying new backing plates.
When the rear showed up, I decided to paint it before install. High humidity made this a few day process. Then I went to install only to realize my mistake; I still needed to get the backing plates on the axle shafts and get the bearings pressed on. That added another $85 to the project by having a local shop press them for me.
I simultaneously realized I needed to have a conversion style u-joint put on the driveshaft. I decided to have the driveshaft professionally gone through and converted. That added another $139.
Then I installed everything in the car, but couldn't mount the sway bar without another trip to the parts store where I had to buy 3" muffler brackets and rig them to hold my sway bar. More money and time.
After spending around $3500 on the swap, I still ended up having to notch the housing cover to accept my e-brake cable guides and zip-tied my brake lines because the housing doesn't come with tabs for the brake lines.
Moser also sent new bolts with cam lock washers for mounting the torque arm. I used them because the stock bolts won't work. The bolts were a bit too long for use with a stock torque arm and bottomed out. I added two washers to make up the difference. The bolts in the bottom worked themselves out. The result was the rear end torqueing down on deceleration, which cracked the torque arm (still held in by the top bolts), hammered the end of the torque which made one of the holes D-shaped, and put grooves in the end of the driveshaft from being at an extreme angle and meeting the pinion yoke.
I'm ordering a new tunnel mounted torque arm and will hunt down replacement bolts. This time I will not trust the cam locks and will simply use a thread locker and a lock washer.
Keeping in mind that anytime you get away from using OEM parts you're going to have some issues. However, I think Moser could have made this "Bolt-in ready" rear end a bit more bolt-in ready. All they'd have had to do is:
-send bolts that fit for use of stock torque arms
-offer to include a conversion style u-joint
-include new sway bar brackets
-pre-notch the diff cover
-install brake line tabs
Again, I'm still happy with my purchase. I think it's a well built, tough rear end. But, stating this rear end is bolt-in ready is just not true.
In some ways, however, maybe I should be grateful. Because of the bolts backing out and destroying the torque arm my wife gave me the green light for ordering a BMR replacement.
First, let me say that I'm pretty happy with my 12-bolt after having it for about two months. However, there are some things I wish Moser had done differently that would have made things easier.
I bought a '01 Firebird Formula with a bad pinion bearing in the 10-bolt and called up Moser to get a 12-bolt rear with 33 spline axles, a 1350 pinion yoke and 3.73 TruTrac gears. I decided to reuse the brakes off my 10-bolt instead of buying new backing plates.
When the rear showed up, I decided to paint it before install. High humidity made this a few day process. Then I went to install only to realize my mistake; I still needed to get the backing plates on the axle shafts and get the bearings pressed on. That added another $85 to the project by having a local shop press them for me.
I simultaneously realized I needed to have a conversion style u-joint put on the driveshaft. I decided to have the driveshaft professionally gone through and converted. That added another $139.
Then I installed everything in the car, but couldn't mount the sway bar without another trip to the parts store where I had to buy 3" muffler brackets and rig them to hold my sway bar. More money and time.
After spending around $3500 on the swap, I still ended up having to notch the housing cover to accept my e-brake cable guides and zip-tied my brake lines because the housing doesn't come with tabs for the brake lines.
Moser also sent new bolts with cam lock washers for mounting the torque arm. I used them because the stock bolts won't work. The bolts were a bit too long for use with a stock torque arm and bottomed out. I added two washers to make up the difference. The bolts in the bottom worked themselves out. The result was the rear end torqueing down on deceleration, which cracked the torque arm (still held in by the top bolts), hammered the end of the torque which made one of the holes D-shaped, and put grooves in the end of the driveshaft from being at an extreme angle and meeting the pinion yoke.
I'm ordering a new tunnel mounted torque arm and will hunt down replacement bolts. This time I will not trust the cam locks and will simply use a thread locker and a lock washer.
Keeping in mind that anytime you get away from using OEM parts you're going to have some issues. However, I think Moser could have made this "Bolt-in ready" rear end a bit more bolt-in ready. All they'd have had to do is:
-send bolts that fit for use of stock torque arms
-offer to include a conversion style u-joint
-include new sway bar brackets
-pre-notch the diff cover
-install brake line tabs
Again, I'm still happy with my purchase. I think it's a well built, tough rear end. But, stating this rear end is bolt-in ready is just not true.
In some ways, however, maybe I should be grateful. Because of the bolts backing out and destroying the torque arm my wife gave me the green light for ordering a BMR replacement.
01-19-2017, 08:19 AM
#16
Seems all to familiar...
I did my research when I bought a rearend a few years ago, and the Midwest Chassis 9" was by far the best choice. I looked at several different rearends and none of them compared. It was a full bolt in setup, and had all new grade 8 hardware so no trips to the hardware store were needed to get it installed. It came with multiple hole LCA brackets, sway bar brackets installed, brake line tabs installed, even had the e-brake cable brackets installed and a small bracket to hold the brake hose off the car. When you spend over 3k on a rearend and then need muffler clamps and zip ties to install it... wow.
Sad to see you spent 3500 on a 12 bolt that has known issues. I too spent 3500.00 and got a top notch rearend package with powdercoating, backbrace, and a 35 spline Truetrac posi. It also came with a chromoly adjustable torque arm included, definitely no worries about bolts coming loose or any failures.
I did my research when I bought a rearend a few years ago, and the Midwest Chassis 9" was by far the best choice. I looked at several different rearends and none of them compared. It was a full bolt in setup, and had all new grade 8 hardware so no trips to the hardware store were needed to get it installed. It came with multiple hole LCA brackets, sway bar brackets installed, brake line tabs installed, even had the e-brake cable brackets installed and a small bracket to hold the brake hose off the car. When you spend over 3k on a rearend and then need muffler clamps and zip ties to install it... wow.
Sad to see you spent 3500 on a 12 bolt that has known issues. I too spent 3500.00 and got a top notch rearend package with powdercoating, backbrace, and a 35 spline Truetrac posi. It also came with a chromoly adjustable torque arm included, definitely no worries about bolts coming loose or any failures.
We do everything to simplify the installation.
Oh and we are a vendor here still.
01-28-2017, 04:41 AM
#17
It sucks that the aftermarket has sucked bad enough that this is the common way of thinking. Moser has a ton of shortfalls other than these. I suggest anyone do a ton of homework before ordering Moser F body rear ends. Strange has come to realize some of them and fixed them. Moser seems to feel they are too big to listen.
01-28-2017, 06:05 AM
#18
The Moser 9 inch and Moser fabricated 9 inch rears are great rears, I always recommend them over a 12 bolt. It doesn't matter the brand of 12 bolt, if you launch hard with them with a torque arm equipped chassis, they have the potential to pick up gear noise. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
01-28-2017, 07:17 AM
#19
I think Moser could have made this "Bolt-in ready" rear end a bit more bolt-in ready. All they'd have had to do is:
-send bolts that fit for use of stock torque arms
-offer to include a conversion style u-joint
-include new sway bar brackets
-pre-notch the diff cover
-install brake line tabs
Again, I'm still happy with my purchase. I think it's a well built, tough rear end. But, stating this rear end is bolt-in ready is just not true.
-send bolts that fit for use of stock torque arms
-offer to include a conversion style u-joint
-include new sway bar brackets
-pre-notch the diff cover
-install brake line tabs
Again, I'm still happy with my purchase. I think it's a well built, tough rear end. But, stating this rear end is bolt-in ready is just not true.
Looks like they got the axle size just right to not have warranty returns. So in other words, it's just about junk for anything over a totally stock torque managmented 350hp ls1.My 10 bolt is clunking bad and ready to die soon after an ls swap.. from a cam only bolt ons and 4000 converter. On 295 Nankangs. I haven't even fit soft rubber yet.
Not like the old days where you could add 250+hp to a factory muscle car and the STOCK rear axle would hold up. Or am I just that used to old Mopars. Yes many including me ran stock 8 3/4 dodge axle with over 600 horsepower and torque big blocks. They didn't die easy, many if at all. I remember tearing through the gears destroying Mcreary dirt tires.. that 8 3/4 then went into another big block A-body mopar with even more power, and repeated.... maybe it died eventually, I don't know.
I guess GM was saving steel on 4th gen rear axles, to go on the 5th gens chassis so it's fat and slow?
Then there's the many japanese pickups sitting in junk yards that have overkill rear axles for their engine size/output...like Nissan Patrol H233b or H260 rear axles.. I guess they have to cater for off roading, but still, the size of those compared to their engine hp/torque
Try find a broken one amongst their many broken gearboxes and engines.
01-30-2017, 10:03 AM
#20
I just recently got finished installing my S60 in my SS and had virtually none of these issues. I paid extra for a driveshaft so I didn't have that issue, the torque arm required just a little massage on the top corner where it nudged the housing and also had to notch the housing itself to allow the torque arm to go in far enough. They even provided holes for the abs line clips and small tabs for the brake lines. Sway bar mounts were included and welded on as well. Overall, Strange did their R&D on this housing to be an almost as close to bolt in as they can. No complaints on the actual build.