7.5/8.8 axle options?
08-10-2016, 04:11 PM
#1
7.5/8.8 axle options? I'm in the process of building a 8.8 for my Trans Am. Using the explorer center section with hiltsy torque arm mount, 14 GT500 diff with 3.73 gears and the stock 7.5 tubes and LS1 rear brakes. Also going to narrow it 3" per side.
I plan on running racestar wheels. I seen in the racestar wheel thread in the wheel section that racestar wheels are hubcentric and Moser axles are lugcentric and won't work. I'm not sure on that but I know the wheels are hubcentric. I contacted Strange today and told them about my axle and they said I'd have to change the bearing end to run their axles. Seriously??
So what are most people running? Moser or Dutchman axles? What do I ask for when telling them what I need to order? I don't plan on running abs so no need for the axles made for reluctor rings.
As for length, stock is 32". From what I've read the 8.8 center pin is 7/8" and the 10 bolt center pin is 3/4". So with my housing being narrowed 3" per side would my axles need to be 28-15/16" long? 3'' shorter and 1/16" per side shorter for the bigger center pin?
I plan on running racestar wheels. I seen in the racestar wheel thread in the wheel section that racestar wheels are hubcentric and Moser axles are lugcentric and won't work. I'm not sure on that but I know the wheels are hubcentric. I contacted Strange today and told them about my axle and they said I'd have to change the bearing end to run their axles. Seriously??
So what are most people running? Moser or Dutchman axles? What do I ask for when telling them what I need to order? I don't plan on running abs so no need for the axles made for reluctor rings.
As for length, stock is 32". From what I've read the 8.8 center pin is 7/8" and the 10 bolt center pin is 3/4". So with my housing being narrowed 3" per side would my axles need to be 28-15/16" long? 3'' shorter and 1/16" per side shorter for the bigger center pin?
08-12-2016, 06:24 AM
#4
Thanks again,
Eric
08-15-2016, 01:34 PM
#6
That is because it is the correct way to run axles especially for a performance application. Keeping the C-Clips can cause havoc if you ever break an axle. A 9" housing end is the only way to go on any rear end.
Trending Topics
09-21-2016, 08:31 AM
#10
You break an axle and rely on the rotor and caliper to support everything you are replacing it including the axle possibly. Put 9" ends on it and break an axle and you are replacing just the axle.
Certain things are just worth doing right and only doing once. When it comes to this particular issue I don't want to risk anymore than I have to.
I feel the same way about stepping up to a 1/2 stud over the factory 12mm stud. That is also another good investment when building a rear end. But if you are purchasing axles and stepping up to 1/2 studs this would be the time to spend the extra money to have them drilled for 5/8 studs just in case.
We all say bolt on's and some stick with just bolt on's but most of us can't seem to call it quits and keep modding more and more as the years go by. Spend the money once and if you can't save until you can.
This is also why we allow customers to make interest free payments on our housing packages. Pay as little or as much as you would like until it's paid off, whether it takes a month or three plus years.
10-01-2016, 10:45 AM
#11
On The Tree
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It can but I have seen were it has not. Your rotor and brake caliper isn't the same as a C-clip eliminator or running 9" style ends. On a side note I would not run C-Clip eliminators either as they are prone to leaking on a street driven vehicle.
You break an axle and rely on the rotor and caliper to support everything you are replacing it including the axle possibly. Put 9" ends on it and break an axle and you are replacing just the axle.
Certain things are just worth doing right and only doing once. When it comes to this particular issue I don't want to risk anymore than I have to.
I feel the same way about stepping up to a 1/2 stud over the factory 12mm stud. That is also another good investment when building a rear end. But if you are purchasing axles and stepping up to 1/2 studs this would be the time to spend the extra money to have them drilled for 5/8 studs just in case.
We all say bolt on's and some stick with just bolt on's but most of us can't seem to call it quits and keep modding more and more as the years go by. Spend the money once and if you can't save until you can.
This is also why we allow customers to make interest free payments on our housing packages. Pay as little or as much as you would like until it's paid off, whether it takes a month or three plus years.
You break an axle and rely on the rotor and caliper to support everything you are replacing it including the axle possibly. Put 9" ends on it and break an axle and you are replacing just the axle.
Certain things are just worth doing right and only doing once. When it comes to this particular issue I don't want to risk anymore than I have to.
I feel the same way about stepping up to a 1/2 stud over the factory 12mm stud. That is also another good investment when building a rear end. But if you are purchasing axles and stepping up to 1/2 studs this would be the time to spend the extra money to have them drilled for 5/8 studs just in case.
We all say bolt on's and some stick with just bolt on's but most of us can't seem to call it quits and keep modding more and more as the years go by. Spend the money once and if you can't save until you can.
This is also why we allow customers to make interest free payments on our housing packages. Pay as little or as much as you would like until it's paid off, whether it takes a month or three plus years.