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Truck 10 bolt in an Fbody (yes we can)

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Old 02-04-2017, 02:42 AM   #81
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and 8.5 is significantly stronger than a 7.5 and is just fine for probably 90% of people in general.
8.5" is absolutely a stronger rear, significantly so. It's much closer in strength to an 8.875" than it is to a 7.5". It has long been proven behind applications such as the Turbo Buick G-bodies, too bad it never made it to the LS1 cars. But,...

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A 7.5 is a junk rear end.
I wouldn't quite go that far. While it's true that the 7.5" is often overwhelmed in manual trans applications, this isn't so much the case for a properly setup auto car. Here's an interesting thread that might be an eye opener for you, regarding just how much a 7.5" can take:

Best 60 Foot on Stock 7.5"?

I've seen similar results locally with the 7.5, when I was regularly at the track with these cars. We had zero issues with several auto cars 60-footing in the 1.5x-1.7x range for years, unless they had uncontrolled wheel hop. Granted, the 1.5x cars had plenty of weight reduction, but there were several of us with full weight cars that did 1.6-1.7 for TONS of passes without rear issues.

There is a lot of truth to 01ssreda4's post below....

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As far as the comment of needing an 8.5 but never planning to run faster then 11s, well then you arent aware of what a properly put together 7.5 can handle. I've got so many on the road in the 10s and 11s it isnt even funny.
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Old 02-04-2017, 08:04 AM   #82
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Question for those that may know. If I get a 28 spline 8.5 carrier will my factory 28 spline axles work. Plan to weld my axle tubes onto the 8.5 if I go this route.
I don't see why not....
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Old 02-04-2017, 08:08 AM   #83
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GM guys around here know me as THE guy who can make a rear end live while being raced. Yes I have certain ways I like to set each one up, but I'm still self taught and my very first 7.5 I built hasn't broken yet. While everything mechanical has limits, if you call that rear junk, you're a keyboard mechanic nothing more, and not even a good one.
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Old 02-04-2017, 11:49 AM   #84
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GM guys around here know me as THE guy who can make a rear end live while being raced. Yes I have certain ways I like to set each one up, but I'm still self taught and my very first 7.5 I built hasn't broken yet. While everything mechanical has limits, if you call that rear junk, you're a keyboard mechanic nothing more, and not even a good one.
Why are being so a pissy? You're taking this a little too seriously. And yes, I'm well aware of all that you said. And I've looked at that 60 foot thread several times in the past so it's not news either.

I'm not saying if you look at a 7.5 it's going to explode. Is it a junk rear? When you're sweating thinking about driving 100 miles to a track and having your rear end explode between your M6 clutch that has zero slip and your sticky as F drag radials......... yeah, it's junk. Might it be fine? Sure. Might also leave me with a $500 tow bill. With an 8.5 I wouldn't be nearly as worried. And that's what this thread is about. Someone fitting an 8.5 in an F-body. A rear that's proven to be fairly strong. Just don't go on a full size truck forum and say that, they will disagree same way people here do on 7.5's.


I've done things that are foolish considering the bad reputation 7.5's have and it's still holding up just fine. But I haven't had drag radials on the car for even 30 miles at this point. Guess I'm going to find out. But maybe we should discuss 7.5's more. I mean, this must be like only the third or fourth thread to ever even mention them.

I built the front AND rear axle in truck. Didn't even even use a keyboard and they are both working great.
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Old 02-04-2017, 02:16 PM   #85
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If we could not turn this guys thread into a pissing match.....

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Old 02-04-2017, 03:12 PM   #86
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It's only a rear axle ffs. Run what you want. Some might like to keep the stock 10 bolt and strengthen it, and yes they will do 10's in autos fairly easy without breaking when the correct parts are put in it and the tubes welded to the center case, but others like me feel like it's throwing my dollars away to spend $1 on the stock 93-02 10 bolt because I know im going to step up the power considerably and the 10 bolt just wont cut it.
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Old 02-04-2017, 04:01 PM   #87
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Thanks for the link. That seems like one of the better, less biased articles I have read so far on the comparison between rear axles.

Strange should be paying me for this, but not really because they sell a lot of 9" and 12 bolt stuff also, but anyway.. for people considering the S60 and thinking it is much too heavy, read the article above. And then take into consideration that if you are going to run a spool, the S60 weight then drops substantially over the other rears with spool, because it's carrier size is so huge to begin with that the design of the full spool somehow cuts a much higher % of weight off of the S60 locker carrier than it does the others, if that makes sense.

Then there is the fact that the S60 seems to be a bolt in and forget about deal for many years, if you got a good one to begin with. Some of the power people have been putting through basically stock Dana 60's (1500+hp) and racing them, while claiming to have never touched it for years, is almost unbelievable for a car component.

Maybe im trying to save people some money so you are not buying thousands in 9" parts and center sections. An S60 is only $2500 bolt in and go abuse the **** out of it.

The ford 9" only became so popular for easy ratio swaps. Im not brand biased at all but if you look back to the late 60's/early 70's, modded hemi cars with dana 60 were untouchable. I had an old magazine where a guy with a new hemi 1970 cuda, literally one year after he bought it brand new, had it doing high 9's in the 1/4 mile. That is impressive for back then. And yes it was a stick car and had a Dana 60 in it.
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Old 02-05-2017, 12:58 PM   #88
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Then there is the fact that the S60 seems to be a bolt in and forget about deal for many years, if you got a good one to begin with. Some of the power people have been putting through basically stock Dana 60's (1500+hp) and racing them, while claiming to have never touched it for years, is almost unbelievable for a car component.
There are some purchases that you make that exceed your expectations. My S60 is one of them. Extraordinary quality and unmatched durability. Winning.
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Old 02-06-2017, 06:15 PM   #89
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There are some purchases that you make that exceed your expectations. My S60 is one of them. Extraordinary quality and unmatched durability. Winning.
Good to hear
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Old 02-06-2017, 07:43 PM   #90
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There are some purchases that you make that exceed your expectations. My S60 is one of them. Extraordinary quality and unmatched durability. Winning.
Great, but it's another post that is off topic.

The OP put an 8.5 in his car. That is what this thread is about. Not about who's rear is better, bigger, faster, more.


If GM had put an 8.5 in these cars from the get go, 90% of these conversations wouldn't exist. It would have been a nice, mildly beefy rear for most folks. Now every thread turns into a 7.5 vs. the world pissing match.

And red camaro 7.5 "thread considered" master, go put another fifteen ring and pinions in a 7.5. Thats great. I can do the same, and very may will. I'm trying to justify the "everything went fine" vs " I spent $600 to have a vehicle flat bedded home and I missed a couple days of work"

I like the idea of an 8.5 because it came in a **** ton of cars and is plenty strong for the average Joe. If GM put an 8.5 in our cars this conversation wouldn't even be happening right now.

So pardon the SF out of me to want to know how someone put a good rear behind a 350hp motor and had everything work out ok.

Which is what moren than 80% of us want.

Last edited by AnotherWs6; 02-07-2017 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:29 PM   #91
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If GM had put an 8.5 in these cars from the get go, 90% of these conversations wouldn't exist..
YEP
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:45 PM   #92
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While everything mechanical has limits, if you call that rear junk, you're a keyboard mechanic nothing more, and not even a good one.
Many here build and have built there own cars including me that are more than just keyboard mechanics that think the 7.5 is, basically junk. I mean yeah it can hold to a point with work done to it, but at the end of the day its reputation for being so is probably well deserved. It's one of THE smallest ring gear size rear axles ever to go in a 5+ litre V8, let alone LS powered. Only need to go look back to the 1970's and look at what size rear axles they used versus their engine output to know that the 7.5 is weak

Anyway how's that saying go.. one mans junk is another mans treasure. Everyone can use whatever part they want or that works for them. What are we arguing about
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:52 AM   #93
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Many here build and have built there own cars including me that are more than just keyboard mechanics that think the 7.5 is, basically junk. I mean yeah it can hold to a point with work done to it, but at the end of the day its reputation for being so is probably well deserved. It's one of THE smallest ring gear size rear axles ever to go in a 5+ litre V8, let alone LS powered. Only need to go look back to the 1970's and look at what size rear axles they used versus their engine output to know that the 7.5 is weak

Anyway how's that saying go.. one mans junk is another mans treasure. Everyone can use whatever part they want or that works for them. What are we arguing about
Well I can agree with that. Here's a tip, I stopped arguing days ago

I just did on Sunday a powertrax posi and matching gears (from american axle maybe) in an 8.5 and they went in with a fantastic pattern, posi was smooth, all thumbs up.
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Old 02-09-2017, 06:52 PM   #94
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This thread, like many/most do, got way off track. The 7.5 debate and the 7.5 vs etc etc etc debate has and will go on forever. But the point of this thread is that the OP stuffed a pickup 8.5 in a Camaro. We were all interested to see the results and how to, yet once I contacted him and nudged him to update the thread - which we were all waiting for - the thread took a typical turn for the worse.

I think his setup is interesting. Vert bare bones and backyard, but if it's held up good for OP. The greater axle width along with the six lug is a problem of course, but not anything that couldn't be remedied. How hard would it be to chop and re-wled a little bit off of the axle length and get properly sized axles? You could put 7.5 ends on it too. I dont know, but there are options.

And congrats to the OP for getting this S done. He obviously isn't going for show car type S. Form follows function. And money.

And the bottom line is this - forget the 7.5, pretend it doesn't exist. If we all had 8.5's hundreds of threads on here about 7.5's and other rears would hardly exist. It's a weak point. Literally and metaphorically.

01ssreda4, proven results are great. They demonstrate that some things CAN be done. And I've done my homework. I'm not a nelly-naysayer. My main concern is the "what if". What if I drive 100 miles to the track, drop the clutch on these sticky *** tires with my Monster stage 3, and they hook with the 4.10's I have sitting on my shelf waiting to go in? (I don't know if I will ever put them in now) SHLING!!!!!!! Gear teeth ripped off. I don't give a **** about fixing the car. Repair, improve, upgrade, yeah it's all part of the game. Like I said before, what I care about is having to pay an absolute minimum of $500 if I'm lucky to have the car flatbedded home. IF MY GUY is available. If not it would be a lot more and they likely wouldn't give too many ***** about how far off the ground the thing was or damage or damage in general. It cost me $170 to have my truck flatbedded 7 miles a few months ago. Welcome to NY.

What all of this means is that I'm nervous, for good reason. And I'd be A LOT less nervous with a 8.5 than a 7.5. Is a 7.5 junk, maybe not. Is an 8.5 junk, not really. But drag radials, clutches, and 5 or 6 grand clutch drops don't do anything to make a 7.5 attractive. I have personal experience with 8.5's. They're not bad. And certainly within the realm of what I'm looking to do.

MORE IMPORTANTLY ----------- OP what else do you have for us???
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Old 02-09-2017, 07:18 PM   #95
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Hey all, I haven't forgotten more pictures!!!! Unfortunately there's about 2 feet of snow on/around the car atm so I'm waiting til iinto have to shovel it out, and then it's picture time.
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Old 02-09-2017, 11:50 PM   #96
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This thread, like many/most do, got way off track. The 7.5 debate and the 7.5 vs etc etc etc debate has and will go on forever. But the point of this thread is that the OP stuffed a pickup 8.5 in a Camaro. We were all interested to see the results and how to, yet once I contacted him and nudged him to update the thread - which we were all waiting for - the thread took a typical turn for the worse.
That side-track has been quiet for two days, why stoke it with a reply like this after things have settled down? Bottom line, you have a manual so the 7.5 is a much greater concern for you, even at relatively modest power levels. Understood, and I don't disagree. Everything else from either side is just continued rehashing of statements already made.

Now, as you've suggested, let's move on....
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Old 02-10-2017, 11:35 AM   #97
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Why? Probably because I still had a browser window open on one of my computers with this thread on it, a lot of snow shoveling and of course beer.

But yes, very interested in more pics and overall experience afterwards.
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Old 02-10-2017, 05:59 PM   #98
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Cam someone explain the difference in 8.5 cases. Like the newer 8.5s vs one out of like a 95 Chevy truck. Just trying to get as much info before I buy. I am definitely going to do this so bare with me and we will get this done. It willl be on my 2000 Camaro 6.0 turbo car with 295/55-15 drag radials. I just need as much info as possible before I do it.
Like for instance. With this fit in any year of 8.5
http://m.ebay.com/itm/LOCK-RIGHT-LOC...%257Ciid%253A3
Or would this be a better option
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=1486771545220

Last edited by MY_2K_Z; 02-10-2017 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 02-11-2017, 08:17 AM   #99
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01ssreda4, proven results are great. They demonstrate that some things CAN be done. And I've done my homework. I'm not a nelly-naysayer. My main concern is the "what if". What if I drive 100 miles to the track, drop the clutch on these sticky *** tires with my Monster stage 3, and they hook with the 4.10's I have sitting on my shelf waiting to go in? (I don't know if I will ever put them in now) SHLING!!!!!!! Gear teeth ripped off. I don't give a **** about fixing the car. Repair, improve, upgrade, yeah it's all part of the game. Like I said before, what I care about is having to pay an absolute minimum of $500 if I'm lucky to have the car flatbedded home. IF MY GUY is available. If not it would be a lot more and they likely wouldn't give too many ***** about how far off the ground the thing was or damage or damage in general. It cost me $170 to have my truck flatbedded 7 miles a few months ago. Welcome to NY.

What all of this means is that I'm nervous, for good reason. And I'd be A LOT less nervous with a 8.5 than a 7.5. Is a 7.5 junk, maybe not. Is an 8.5 junk, not really. But drag radials, clutches, and 5 or 6 grand clutch drops don't do anything to make a 7.5 attractive. I have personal experience with 8.5's. They're not bad. And certainly within the realm of what I'm looking to do.

MORE IMPORTANTLY ----------- OP what else do you have for us???
Completely understood. What I hate about this idea though is it doesn't fit like stock and/or requires extensive fab work. My thoughts are simply, if this is the case, go with something better then the 8.5. If it was a drop in deal, same width, bolt pattern etc, I would be an advocate of this swap without a doubt, but it simply isnt.
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Old 02-11-2017, 08:20 AM   #100
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Cam someone explain the difference in 8.5 cases. Like the newer 8.5s vs one out of like a 95 Chevy truck. Just trying to get as much info before I buy. I am definitely going to do this so bare with me and we will get this done. It willl be on my 2000 Camaro 6.0 turbo car with 295/55-15 drag radials. I just need as much info as possible before I do it.
Like for instance. With this fit in any year of 8.5
http://m.ebay.com/itm/LOCK-RIGHT-LOC...%257Ciid%253A3
Or would this be a better option
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=1486771545220
From what I know, or think I do, 28 spline will be s10/blazer stuff, and 30 will be full size truck and tahoe/suburban stuff. There seems to be two different size carrier bearings, which could be axle size related or possibly whether you got drum or disc breaks, which again could correlate to axle size. Thats the only variations of the 8.5 Ive found so far.
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