Jake99

iTrader: (2)

I got a 71 nova, has the factory 8.5 rear end in it, although I know the factory axle shafts suck Id still like to try to run it this year, It has disk brakes in the back so im not to worryed about it if it would brake, but what scares the hell out of me is these tiny little short wheel studs it has, I dont want to brake them and screw up my fender. If im going to put new longer arp wheel studs in it would be smart to just step up to 1/2 inch studs instead of 7/16? Is it as simple as just drilling out the axle stud holes and brake disk holes? Iv never really messed with this stuff before so I figured it was better to just ask. Thanks

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Generally you cant drill axle flanges because they are hardened. You will need to order a set of custom axles from a manufacturer like Moser or Strange that is drilled for the stud size you want and bolt pattern of your wheel. Then yes you may can just hand grind the brake rotor so it will slip over them. 1/2" is as big as I think you can run with a stock wheel.

Jake99

iTrader: (2)

Ok I didn't realize you couldn't drill out the shafts, I guess ill just get some longer arp 7/16 studs. Hopefully they hold up, it wont leave hard but it will have 700 hp once it get out there.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

'72 was the first year for an 8.5", at least in the X-body. '71 would still have come with either an 8.2" or an 8.875" if the rear really is stock to the car, but I doubt that matters in terms of the studs though.

I don't think you'll have any trouble with 7/16" size if they are ARPs, especially if you're not planning on record-breaking 60-foots.

Jake99

iTrader: (2)

Right on, I think ill just try the 7/16. Im not sure if the axle is factory or not, but the title says 71 and I know its an 8.5 cause I switched the gear out on it for a set I had in the shop, which came out of a 91 silverado. Ill probably switch out the carrier and go to 30 spline shaft next winter.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Depending on the wheel you are running, a shank/mag style lug or an ET lug will provide more strength due to the fact that they grip the stud lower, which makes the fulcrum breaking point have less leverage.

Jake99

iTrader: (2)

It's conical non hub centric, iv never run a non hub centric before but it seems in my head that it would only make the matters worse, but it my not once its all tight idk.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You need an conical ET lug for more strength, I switched to 1/2 studs and et lugs after this happened:

Driver's side


Passenger side

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

You can drill axle flanges as it is done all the time by manufactures themselves and machine shops. What it comes down to is it worth the labor cost to have it done on stock axles.

I do know you need to get rid of the 7/16 studs indeed as they are a weak link even being ARP. You have to consider vehicle weight over HP when determining the correct studs.

Jake99

iTrader: (2)

01ssreda4 what did you do for that to happen? Trans brake car? Seems like parts always brake right at the line, this is a foot brake turbo car, it wont leave very hard at all but it will get a good rush of power 20 foot out or so. I dont wana spend a ton of money in it cause it will all be upgraded later on anyways. I just wana run at some local races they put on out here, really dont hook up much better then the street does.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

That was off the foot brake and it wheel hopped+sticky radial+sticky track. Then on the drive home is when the wheel almost came off. Always check your lug nuts after wheel hopping!

Jake99

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I agree, wheel hope and trans brake with radials is where things get hairy seems like. I think im just going to roll with some longer arp 7/16 and try to just be carful with it till I get 30 spline shafts the do the 1/2in or even 5/8.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

No reason to not swap lugs! Such a simple thing that increases strength.