TA_Freak

This is something that I've lived for as long as I can remember with the TA. This is my 4th f-body, although 3 have been 2nd gens. I've never experienced this before. I don't think that I'm alone with this. So I'm driving down the highway and the TA is going in a straight line and it just starts to veer one way or another, but I resist the temptation to correct the steering .... and it catches and corrects itself. That is happening in the rear (rear steering) where I would guess there is 1/4" axle end play on each side. I've read where an external snap ring could be installed at the end of the axle to eliminate that play. It just feels sloppy as hell. All parts are good too. Is this something in the aftermarket axles? I have Mosers in there. It's on it's 3rd set of axles and Ive always replaced them with Mosers.

TA_Freak

What can be done to tighten up the axles on the 10 bolt? With a total of probably 1/2" of lateral movement in the rear, it feels like the rear is sliding around back there.

RockinWs6

You have to measure the axle end play with a dial indicator, max should be around .125 thous or 1/8th inch per axle which feels like ALOT that why you have to measure it. I seriously doubt that is you handling problem. These cars have wide tires and are kinda hard to get them to handle neutral. Setting the camber 0 to slightly negative with 0 to slightly negative Toe helps a lot. Also caster needs to be set properly before any of this. Another BIG issue is the trust angle on the rear end. Good Luck finding someone who truly understands all this because it truly is a fine science. I do my own IN THE DRIVEWAY and my car doesn't wear tires and handles fantastic. You wouldn't believe how little it takes to make these cars handle like sheeeet.

TA_Freak

The alignment is -.3 camber, 4.8 caster and 1/16" of toe in. I also believe you about the handling .. these cars are finicky.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

all that holds the axle in is the C clip on each, and that is what wears thinner in addition to maybe the paddle block or carrier which they ride against, when a push or pull force is placed on the axle.

you'd want to measure thickness of a brand new c-clip and compare it against the thickness of a used one. if i rebuild my 10-bolt that is one of the things on my list to figure out. I don't know/remember if they sell new c-clips that you can choose the thickness of.

i'd have to look at it again but impression i had was it's not a good design for road racing where there's a lot of in/out force on the axle, it would wear down and create that excessive axle movement... which simply happens after ~100k miles.

Jay02TA

Did you find or think of who sells C-clips of different thicknesses? I can't find them. I need 0.020 thicker. But if thicker than that, I'd machine down to my unique needs. Thanks. jaypistana@aol.com

chronos

After I changed all my front suspension bushings and my alignment was all out of whack (had 1.35* toe in) my car felt unstable like you are describing. The front was super sketchy but oddly it felt like the rear end was moving all over the place, which was confusing but I knew was impossible since I hadn't touched the rear. Once I got the car aligned the handling and stability were excellent again. It might go straight and seem okay if the toe of each front wheels are nearly equally wrong so that they somewhat cancel each other out, but the car will upset at the sight of a pebble.

F me

Tom's Differentials sells them...

Jay02TA

I made my own C-Clips out of hardened washers from Grangers. Then I ground them a various thicknesses and trial fit to minimize end play.

Can you provide link to Tom's for other people?

JBimmolate

Also if ordering axles from moser you can always have them make the button on the end a little thicker. Also if you have a true track in the rear the play from both sides can make it seem much worse as the center block floats back and fourth with the axles.

Miles

F me

https://www.tomsdifferentials.com/tomp.html