Qfly

iTrader: (1)

I have a little metallic sound that coincides with the rotation of the drive shaft and would like get a new one.

The plan is to replace the drive shaft, u-joints and whatever else that might be needed such as the yoke maybe?

The only drive shafts I have looked at are the PST shafts. Since I know nothing about PST, I was wondering what you guys think about them or could maybe recommend another brand or two.

Thanks,

Shawn

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

We have sold a few of their driveshafts a day for some time and everyone in the shop currently runs their product. Great product with a good turn around time. Just make sure if you have a M6 car that you get the proper yoke as we are currently the only ones using this yoke for our customers.

Qfly

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the information..

I sent you a message..

Cheers!

onebadbowtie86

iTrader: (13)

Midwest will take care of you, But Carl at CRP who is also a sponsor on here went above and beyond for me. I just bought my 3.5" pst shaft from him, with the upgraded sonnax yoke. Cant say enough Good about him, great guy.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I went with a Driveshaft Shop 3.5" aluminum deal. Came with a Sonnax Forged Yoke and both the 1350 U-Joint and Saginaw joint for the stock rearend. But the length is 41.25" Center-to-Center so it'll work with a 12-bolt or the 10-bolt or a 9" with the longer 1350 yoke on it.

Qfly

iTrader: (1)

There are certainly a lot of choices out there!

I need a drive shaft that is good for somewhere around 440-460 RWHP which is what I am shooting for after the heads, cam etc...

The car will never see the track or any kind of street racing which is why I am looking at an aluminum drive shaft. Since the current stock driveshaft is 17 years old, I am beginning to get a little worried and figure it is about time to get a replacement.

If you guys don't mind, here are a couple more questions for you..

First, the car needs a driveshaft loop for safety reasons. Do you guys have any recommendations? If a bolt on loop works, I am okay with that. However, if a weld on would be a better idea then that is the road to take.

Second, besides the driveshaft, u-joints, and yoke, is there any other parts that you would recommend replacing that would be in direct support of a new driveshaft?

In the near future I plan on putting in a new rear end and a driveshaft that could be swapped over to a new rear would be a plus!

Thanks again for the information...

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

MWC driveshaft loop gives the best clearance. And they are all bolt-in unless you do some kind of extreme torque arm that's welded in and includes the DSL. No need for it to be anything other than bolt in. 4 bolts hold it.

Driveshaft, u-joints, and yoke are about it.

And a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft should be good to about 1000HP.

Qfly

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again Jake. I was hoping bolt on is the way to go for a driveshaft loop..

Cheers!

WS6wanted

I have a question that is on the same topic in regards to driveshaft replacement.

When reinstalling an old driveshaft, you have to mark and remove to avoid vibes. When installing a new ds, do you have to play with positioning in order to eliminate new vibrations?

And would a new ds with no weights on it, 100% balanced, eliminate a car currently with vibes from possibly having a driveshaft not installed in the position as it was from factory. Asking because my rear had many past rebuilds from previous owners and suspect the ds is causing some vibes and it is also 17 yrs old and will probably replace in the future.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Wswanted you may have to rotate a new driveshaft but not always. I have had customers that had to do it and some that have not had to do it. As for vibration a new high speed balanced driveshaft should always have a less chance of vibration over one that is not high speed balanced.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

And any vibration with a balanced shaft is caused by poor pinion angle.