Parts for 12 bolt swap?
#1
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Parts for 12 bolt swap?
Very soon I will be ordering a 12 bolt.. preferably moser at the moment because I will only be running slicks ever so often.. car will mostly see drag radials and is mostly just street driven.
My question is.... what all do I need for the rear end swap?
I plan on ordering the moser 12 from thunder or another sponsor... but I am a bit lost on everything else I will need to install it into my car. *2000 SS*
Need a new torque arm? New LCA's? Shortened driveshaft? Adjustable Panhard?
If someone can.. just post up a quick list of all the items I am going to need to throw it right in my car the week I get it..
Thanks....
My question is.... what all do I need for the rear end swap?
I plan on ordering the moser 12 from thunder or another sponsor... but I am a bit lost on everything else I will need to install it into my car. *2000 SS*
Need a new torque arm? New LCA's? Shortened driveshaft? Adjustable Panhard?
If someone can.. just post up a quick list of all the items I am going to need to throw it right in my car the week I get it..
Thanks....
#2
Staging Lane
Join Date: Mar 2004
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I just did one recently.... Here's what you need ( I think this will be pretty comprehensive)
1. Air tools (old bolts suck)
2. Lock Tite for Torque Arm (can keep stock torque arm, Moser bolts need to be held in!)
3. 3" muffler clamps for sway bar. Old clamps don't fit around new axle tubes
4. NAPA 447X u-joint assuming you got the 1350 pinion yoke
5. 5 quarts of 80W-90 Gear Oil - DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC!
6. 4oz tube of GM gear slip additive
If you're keeping the traction control, you need to pull the old axles out and have NAPA or someone press off the exciter rings. Make sure you put the new axles together in the correct order. You then have to get the new bearings pressed on the new axles.
I think that's about it...
1. Air tools (old bolts suck)
2. Lock Tite for Torque Arm (can keep stock torque arm, Moser bolts need to be held in!)
3. 3" muffler clamps for sway bar. Old clamps don't fit around new axle tubes
4. NAPA 447X u-joint assuming you got the 1350 pinion yoke
5. 5 quarts of 80W-90 Gear Oil - DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC!
6. 4oz tube of GM gear slip additive
If you're keeping the traction control, you need to pull the old axles out and have NAPA or someone press off the exciter rings. Make sure you put the new axles together in the correct order. You then have to get the new bearings pressed on the new axles.
I think that's about it...
#3
Banned
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by z28dan
I just did one recently.... Here's what you need ( I think this will be pretty comprehensive)
1. Air tools (old bolts suck)
2. Lock Tite for Torque Arm (can keep stock torque arm, Moser bolts need to be held in!)
3. 3" muffler clamps for sway bar. Old clamps don't fit around new axle tubes
4. NAPA 447X u-joint assuming you got the 1350 pinion yoke
5. 5 quarts of 80W-90 Gear Oil - DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC!
6. 4oz tube of GM gear slip additive
If you're keeping the traction control, you need to pull the old axles out and have NAPA or someone press off the exciter rings. Make sure you put the new axles together in the correct order. You then have to get the new bearings pressed on the new axles.
I think that's about it...
1. Air tools (old bolts suck)
2. Lock Tite for Torque Arm (can keep stock torque arm, Moser bolts need to be held in!)
3. 3" muffler clamps for sway bar. Old clamps don't fit around new axle tubes
4. NAPA 447X u-joint assuming you got the 1350 pinion yoke
5. 5 quarts of 80W-90 Gear Oil - DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC!
6. 4oz tube of GM gear slip additive
If you're keeping the traction control, you need to pull the old axles out and have NAPA or someone press off the exciter rings. Make sure you put the new axles together in the correct order. You then have to get the new bearings pressed on the new axles.
I think that's about it...
Someone also told me I would need an adjustable panhard rod to center the rear?
#4
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
You could spring the extra $$ and get a new set of exciter rings and brake backing plates installed when you purchase the rear, so it's more of a bolt in setup, which is what I will be doing. As for the clamps for the sway bar, I don't think that an exhaust clamp would be a good way to hold the sway bar on. There's got to be a clamp that is designed to do that job. I personally will probably have a spohn sway bar installed when I do the rear. I'll be doing the rear myself, but the sway bar requires welding of some sort I think, so I'll have the shop do that part mor me.
#5
Staging Lane
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You shouldn't if you are keeping the same tires and stuff. The Moser 12 Bolt is a bolt in. You would only need the adjustable rod if you are lowering the car or changing the springs. I bought one for my car anyway for cornering performance. It can't hurt to have it adjustable though. If you have the rear end already torn apart, and you can afford it, you might as well get the following:
adjustable lower control arms (for lowering) ~$150
adjustable panhard rod (for lowering) ~150
bigger Sway bar (the other one is skimpy) $?
Torsion bar (the stock one is pretty skimpy) $3-500
driveshaft loop $100
If you ever decide you want this stuff, you have to drop the rear end again to do it.
I also recommed kenny brown double diamond subframe connectors if you want the best bang for your buck handling. Those things make the f-body rock solid.
adjustable lower control arms (for lowering) ~$150
adjustable panhard rod (for lowering) ~150
bigger Sway bar (the other one is skimpy) $?
Torsion bar (the stock one is pretty skimpy) $3-500
driveshaft loop $100
If you ever decide you want this stuff, you have to drop the rear end again to do it.
I also recommed kenny brown double diamond subframe connectors if you want the best bang for your buck handling. Those things make the f-body rock solid.
#6
Staging Lane
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
You could spring the extra $$ and get a new set of exciter rings and brake backing plates installed when you purchase the rear, so it's more of a bolt in setup, which is what I will be doing. As for the clamps for the sway bar, I don't think that an exhaust clamp would be a good way to hold the sway bar on. There's got to be a clamp that is designed to do that job. I personally will probably have a spohn sway bar installed when I do the rear. I'll be doing the rear myself, but the sway bar requires welding of some sort I think, so I'll have the shop do that part mor me.