NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Who all is running them and what options did you get? whats your HP and have you broken anything? I heard of a Oil fill option?? Needed? Price?
Thanks
Kyle

Mark98SS

iTrader: (1)

If there's a remote oil fill setup that would be handy but not necessary. The oil plug is on the left side behind the TA mount. Only way to fill it is with a squeeze bottle & flex tube, even then it's a PIA. I took the axel assy out of my car this weekend to change the diff, ran out of time & motivation this afternoon, I'll fill mine before installing the TA mount & before hanging the axel back in the car.
With a spool there's no moving parts & equal power to both wheels but don't drive it in the rain.

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

the oil fill option is good. it's a bung welded on top with a screw off cap that's about the size of a silver dollar. much bigger and more accessable than the factory type and location. it's welded to the top of the pumpkin. for oil and drain plugs it's $70 from Moser. you'll be hard pressed to break a spool, as that's what guys with over 2000 hp have. you will notice it making sharp turns, so hope you have power steering still! fyi, a lot of guys run them on the street, but most who do enough street driving, 5000/yr+, will opt for the Detroit Locker. it's supposed to hold well over 1200hp/tq.

later,
Dave

sending you a pm.

kp

iTrader: (34)

The fill is a waste unless you are changing gears all the time, the drain is a much better option I have no problem filling mine with some rubber hose on a gear oil bottle.

You can get drilled/lightened axles, saves quite a bit of rotating weight. Aluminum center section will save some weight. The 9" in my other car had a lightened spool, 35 spline drilled/star flanged axles, moser aluminum center section and only weighed ~25 more pounds then the 10 bolt and I bet the rotationg weight wasnt much more. I drove the car with that rear quite a bit and its still going. You will not break a 9" with a spool if its set up right in your car.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

I like my fill plug, it makes it realy easy when you go to change the fluid. I also street mine every day with no problems. I got aluminum 3rd member, 35 gundrilled, exciter rings pressed on, drain/fill cap, 3.89 gears. Pm Matt TTP, he gave me a great price but it was on a gp.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

This is what im looking at....

9" full spool
3.50 gear... not sure.. might go 3.70
35 spline axles
Was thinking the drain and fill plugs
now im not sure abot gundrilled axles.......
the star flanging i was told to stay away from because i will be driving thid car on the street..... i have no worrys about a spool on the street.. i dont care about eating street tires up.... ill be runnig two sets of rear tires... 15X8's with 275/60's and 28X10.50's ET Drags on 15X10's for the track.
Can you guys tell me more about what gundrilling axles and starflanging does for me? Im not woried about the strret because right after this goes in... ill be swaping out the 4l60e to a built th-350. Thanks
Kyle

kp

iTrader: (34)

Gun drilling/star flange loses about 8lbs an axle if I remember, its just a weight thing. The less anything that turns weighs, the less power it soaks up going down the track. I drove mine with no problems, wouldnt want to slide into a curb or anything

Drilling really doesnt weaken the axle much, just costs more money. If you are going with the stock 1st gear in the TH-350 I would go with a 3.70 over a 3.50, maybe even a 3.90 if highway driving wasnt a concern depending on what RPM you want to see going through the traps.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

I will drive it on the highway some.......... in the summer.... only 8 miles each way... then cruising onthe weekend....... but will be trailored the 120 miles each way to the track.......I dont want to spinthe motor over 6600.... shift point... can i do that with a 3.90 rear gear??
Kyle

kp

iTrader: (34)

depends on the converter/horsepower but 6600 should get you around ~128mph with your converter.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

I got gundrilled to save weight and the strength is suppost to be the same. All they do is drill a hole down the center of the axle.

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

i run a 9" with 4.71 gears and a spool. i drive the car all over when its out, and even in street trim with 17" nittos I don't notice the spool at all unless i'm making tight, slow turns, then it'll clunk.

i just fill mine through the breather hole that's on top of the drivers side axle housing, unscrew the fitting that's in there and squeeze in the fluid

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

So what your saying KP is that a 6600rpm shift point and a 3.90 rear gear with a 28" tire is only good for 128mph...?? Will 128 be enough for 9's?? That is the end goal. 10's after the drivetrain goes in, and then lighten the car up, and more HP.
Can anyone break it down per gear and MPH??
3.90= 128mph
3.70=??
3.50=??
Thanks
Kyle

kp

iTrader: (34)

Shift points what you are looking for, all you have to worry about is making it through the traps at a certain rpm. An automatic car with a loose converter will slip ~4-600rpm. If you cant pull past 6600 I wouldnt use a 3.90. You will need 135+ mph to get in the 9s so if you dont want to swap gears go with a 3.70. I would try to get a 2.75 1st gear in the trans, that with a 3.70 is a pretty good combo - thats what I ran in the other car and 130mph was around 6200rpm in the 1/4.

I have a 4.10 in my car, 28" tires and I am crossing the traps ~71-7200 @ 133.5. So figure with 28.5" (tire growth) tires and 6500rpm get 134mph with a manual trans. So I am seeing ~650pm converter slip..

If you can pull more rpm out of your combo the larger gear will help out with the 60' but if you cant I would stick with a 3.50/3.70 and if you can afford the 2.75 1st in the trans it would be nice..

I would guess 135mph with a 3.70 and 143 with a 3.50 but it really depends on a lot on the converter plus tire growth. I would go with a 3.70, it may hurt you a bit when the power is lower but it will give you some room to go.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Thanks KP..... decisions decisions..
Kyle

mzoomora

iTrader: (36)

The formula for speed and ratio is-

(MPH X Gear ratio)
------------------ X 336 = RPM
Tire Diameter

If you 3 out of the 4 you can get the last one. So 6600 rpm divided by 336, then times 28" tire and divided by 3.70 = 148 mph. The main thing to consider is this doesnt compensate for converter/clutch slippage or minor variances in tire height.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

ford 9 inch here
4.30's
31 spline mosers
iron housing
spool
aluminum yoke
ARP wheel studs

perfect for an M6 car with 26 inch tall tires.... i need 4.56's

4.30's are good for 9's on a 28 inch tall tire... you just hafta be willing to spin the motor a bit

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

I just talked to Chris at APE and he said i should have no problem spinning the motor to 7000rpm..... so it looks like it will be a 3.90 gear. i am going to look into a 2.75 1st gear..... I used your convertor slipping as a Ref KP so if i spin the motor to 7K with tire growth to 28.3" and a 3.90 gear i should be able to do 137 MPH. Thanks for the input guys.. ill be ordering my 9" here real soon.
Kyle

kp

iTrader: (34)

just have to watch your boost at 7000rpm and make sure you arent pulleyed up much, that 400rpm will be another 1 or 2 psi most likely. I am spinning this thing over 7500 so I dont thing yours going 7000 is going to hurt anything.

Downside of the 2.75 is its an extra 500.00 and a car with marginal traction may lose out with it but I think it will benefit you in the long run. I would like to have the 2.75 1st myself and will probably do it when I go through the trans soon..

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

I did the math for the blower also after chris said it was fine to spin it to 7K... it will put the blower right below its max... perfect... 61,200 rpm's of a 62,000 peak. I know you know how the blower is at the last 1k rpm's boost climbs like crazy..... if its 13-14 psi ill be happy... as long as the heads stay down i dont care...... WOW that 2.75 fist is spendy...... what parts did you have in your th-350 and what parts (supplier) would you recomend?? Im having a local guy build it he knows his **** i just want great parts.

Thanks
Kyle

kp

iTrader: (34)

I buy everything form TCI, most of the bigger vendors carry TCI stuff. I have a TH400 in this car, thats what came in it, my old car had a TH350 with the 2.75 1st. I wish I had a TH350 in here to be honest, my drivetrain is a horsepower sucking abyss but if I decide to spray 250 on it I need the beef