drive shaft?
#3
Originally Posted by ULTIMATEORANGESS
i went with an LPE aluminum 3.5" DS.nice part imo.
#5
TECH Veteran
Go with Inland Empire. That's what I got. You can get it made to fit your car exactly the way it should. They make it and ship it in 24 hours. It has a lifetime warranty to boot!
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by SStolen
Will this hold-up to a 6000rpm nitrous lanuch- 500rwhp/550rwtq?
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#11
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I've heard of/seen several twisted/busted driveshafts. I know we busted one on the Firehawk when the rear broke...that was the stock aluminum one. While the aluminum may be lighter than steel...it's not as strong. If you're going with aluminum...I certainly hope you're running a driveshaft loop so you don't risk pole-vaulting your car....
#12
Originally Posted by Kenafin_02TA
I've heard of/seen several twisted/busted driveshafts. I know we busted one on the Firehawk when the rear broke...that was the stock aluminum one. While the aluminum may be lighter than steel...it's not as strong. If you're going with aluminum...I certainly hope you're running a driveshaft loop so you don't risk pole-vaulting your car....
#13
TECH Senior Member
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what about CF?arent they alot stronger than stock?i know theyre very expensive.
when i had my DS replaced under warranty i noticed it was an american axle unit.even though i put my LPE DS in it was still in good shape and looked like a beefy unit.i kept it as a spare.
when i had my DS replaced under warranty i noticed it was an american axle unit.even though i put my LPE DS in it was still in good shape and looked like a beefy unit.i kept it as a spare.
#14
Originally Posted by ULTIMATEORANGESS
what about CF?arent they alot stronger than stock?i know theyre very expensive.
when i had my DS replaced under warranty i noticed it was an american axle unit.even though i put my LPE DS in it was still in good shape and looked like a beefy unit.i kept it as a spare.
when i had my DS replaced under warranty i noticed it was an american axle unit.even though i put my LPE DS in it was still in good shape and looked like a beefy unit.i kept it as a spare.
#18
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I'd stay with a HD 3.5" aluminum driveshaft. All the guys I know that are fast use them and I don't know of anyone that's broken one. A chromeoly or steel shaft is too damn heavy and can cause vibrations. I've also seen tranny tailshaft housings crack from heavy driveshafts.
#20
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I just installed a Dr. Evil transmission and now i have to get a custom driveshaft made. The new transmission is one inch shorter than what was in the car before. (this is not Dr. Evil's fault! they are really friendly & very helpful) The yoke doesnt fit the new tailshaft so it caused vibration. I just had the driveshaft shop put a longer yoke on mine so i can keep the car on the road till i get custom driveshaft made. Also when the driveshaft shop spun/balanced my driveshaft, they had to add a lot of weights to it (more than we liked). So any of you with a steel driveshaft with any vibration at all may want to have it spun/balanced & check the length of the yoke.
Everyone has been telling me that now is the time for an aluminum driveshaft, for weight savings. A rock ding will junk any aluminum driveshaft. Id rather have a few pounds heavier steel driveshaft than a weak aluminum driveshaft.
Everyone has been telling me that now is the time for an aluminum driveshaft, for weight savings. A rock ding will junk any aluminum driveshaft. Id rather have a few pounds heavier steel driveshaft than a weak aluminum driveshaft.