SLP/Drew

i dont know as much as a should on drivetrains and i was wondering if i could just stay with my stock rearend and change it to like a 3.73, or 4.10 along with a new cluch...?

will everything hold up after: longtubeheaders, new intake, aftermarket head and cam swap. dont know exactly how much power this will be when it comes to rwhp so i need some insight on what parts of my drivetrain need to be aftermarket

-Drew

BOWTIE

Some say it will, some say it some say it will not. All I can say is I broke mine on the second pass with a drag radial with about 330-350 rwhp. This was the 1st time ever to the track with a sticky tire, and only the 2nd time to the track with the new clutch (1st time was on 17 KDW's and it was called after a few passes due to rain).

SLP/Drew

was that with a stock rearend when you busted it

BOWTIE

Yes, stock 10 bolt with stock 3.42's. The car had about 63,000 miles on it. The rear end was supposedly rebuilt at the dealership when I took it in under warranty due to excesive noise. If I remember correctly they had to replace an axle because it was scarred up from a bad bearing, replaced all of the wheel bearings, pinion bearing, and carrier bearings, but reused the differential and gears. When I broke it it snapped the left axle off right where it enters the differential and split the differential from inside the carrier bearing to a cast in window next to the ring gear mounting flange. If I were going to try and use a stock 10 bolt, I would (at the minimum) replace the axles with a set of better axles and run a girdle style cover. I do not know if the axle broke and that cause the differential to split, or if the differential deflected on launch, due to the wimpy retaing caps, and that put everything in a bind causing the axle to break and carrier to split. That said, I was not going to spend bunch of money fixing the stock rear so I have a 9" on order.