Casperws6

well i have an a4 ws6 (obviously) that i don't drive every day. i plan on getting 3.73 probably next week. But i'm skeptical about it. Will i notice a huge difference acceleration wise? Should i just use that money and spend it else where? I don't really want to spend like 450 on gears (installed) and have it not make much of a difference. Any advice would be helpful, thanks

CVponYKillER

Its a automatic, i think it'll be a good idea to do it

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

do you have a stall yet?



gears are a worthwhile mod.

brandonppr

iTrader: (9)

I know a guy at my local track who put in the same thing he went from 8.5xx to 8.2xx int the 8th mile.

GT Griller

iTrader: (8)

I gained 3 tenths in the 1/4 mi but my 60' went to the ******* with street tires. I definatley thing it was well wrth it.

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

I just did that swap to my car, but alas, I caught a manhole cover while I was breaking them in, and the car has been dead due to a busted oil filter and y-pipe. But my Pacesetters came in today, and are going in Sunday. I hope that all that will add up to some sweet acceleration.

Go with Precision Gear. The guy who set mine up is a pro, and there's no more whine than there was stock.

Guys around here told me to expect about a .2 to .4 reduction in ET, depending on the launch.

matt94z

iTrader: (49)

I gained .3 and 2 mph in the 1/4 when my car was basically stock. One of the best mods I think. It feels like you added about 40 horses.

Race Car Driver

The gear change will improve your et by a couple of tenths and will cost around $800 if a shop does it. A 150 wet shot would knock a second off your et and cost around $1000.

Casperws6

gears would cost me $450-$475 installed. who does it for $800? that's kinda expensive

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

you will feel the differance but if your putting it in a 10 bolt your wasting your money, save up and get a 12 bolt or 9 inch first w/ those gears in it!!

BADFNZ

iTrader: (19)

Shop by the name of TDP does them for $350 installed in the Dallas area.

GT Griller

iTrader: (8)

got mine installed for 125 yall alll got srewed unless u did it ur selves.

prostock_bigblock

iTrader: (11)

dont wait man , you well feel great , also you will be always stocked on your seat , but do you really want the good advice???? dont try them without radials , regular tires wont work you well be spending alot of wheels and alot of smoke .
sooo go ahead man.oh by the way if you are a drag racer this is an another advice ,you will feel the differance but if your putting it in a 10 bolt your wasting your money, save up and get a 12 bolt or 9 inch ,because no doubt that the 10 bolt in my opinion is ****(not strong enough) for a drag job

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

Even in a bolt ons only automatic? The 10 bolt should hold up in that case I would think, even on a drag radial.

I have a 2800 stall with the 3.23s in a full bolt on car and I'm wondering if the 3.73s would help me just as much (ie: 3 tenths)?

BOWTIE

I think you would be OK with the 10 bolt with 3.73's with a bolt on auto as long as you are not trying to race it every weekend. I would suggest getting a set of Moser replacement axles and a girdle to go along with your gear change.

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

That's what I figured.
But upgraded axles? Is it actually the axles that go on the 10 bolts or is the ring/pinion/spider gears/differential that usually go?

BOWTIE

My guess is you could roll the dice and anyone of them could break. However, I sure am seeing a lot of broken axles lately, and in several cases including mine a split carrier as well. It is hard to say, but I am guessing the axle broke and then split the carrier. Supposedly the standard Torsen differential is the stronger of the stock differentials available for the 7.5/7.6 rear ends. Also, I suggest the cover girdle because the housing and differential retaining caps are weak as hell. this is why so many people have had to have their carrier bearings replaced because the rear end started howling going down the road. The girdle will add a little bit of rigidity to the case and the load bolts will help minimize the carrier cap distortion and help keep the ring gear and differential square and in place where it is supposed to be. Of course these are just band aid fixes, but if it will suffice for your purpose it will also be the most effecient (least HP robbing) way to go.Good luck whatever you decide. And for what it's worth, I went with Billingsley Racing 9", but I also have a M6.

BowtieFreak

Right, I've seen 10 bolts break with relatively mild engines, if they hooked up.

The trick is not guessing which gears you need, but rather knowing. THere is one gear ratio that will yield the best et in the 1/4th and another that will produce best time in the 1/8th for any specific car. Do your math and get at least in the ballpark.

-1SLOWSS

iTrader: (10)

I have an a4 car too and my 10 bolt with 3.23's was completely rebuilt at 52k. It now has 70k and has started howling like mad again. Of course the last 5k were with it handling 440rwhp from time to time. I really figured it would have held up longer though since I never ran anything stickier than regular 300 treadwear street tires. I've just about made up my mind to go with a Strange 12 bolt with 3.73's. Looking at the rpm comparisons at 70mph there is only about a 300 rpm difference. I can live with that.

Racin'96 SS

I swapped my gears at the end of last year and my car pulls a lot harder than before...you won't be disapointed