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Old 03-17-2005, 03:33 PM
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Default 9" Question

I was talking with some local guys, and they said that a Ford E-100 van housing is almost the correct width for use in a 4th Gen. Camaro. As I recall the stock rear is like 64.5" wide, is this correct? He was saying that the rear out of a E-100 is 64" wide. Has anyone tried using one of these. It's been raining here so I haven't had a chance to hit the Pull-A-Part to measure one. I was thinking about Buying a Moser Torque Arm brace and welding the panhard rod and lower control arm brackets from the stock rear to it. It's a drag car so I don't have ABS anymore. I have the center section and disk brakes left over from the Pro-Street car to use in it.
Old 03-20-2005, 11:07 PM
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Once your all said and done your gonna have the same cost into it as a Moser built 9".
Old 03-23-2005, 08:49 AM
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No, the catch is I already have three center sections left over from the race car and a complete disk brake setup. The E-100 van rear is coming out of a Pull-a-Part. The rear cost me $47 from pull-a-part, so I don't have even close to the same money as a Moser. Since I'm a fabricator changing the brackets is a walk in the park.
Old 03-23-2005, 10:05 AM
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4th gen housing width is 53.125 flange to flange. Call up MOser thay sell a kit that will have all of the brackets and torque arm mount. Fabricate away.
Old 03-24-2005, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 1BAD86Z28
4th gen housing width is 53.125 flange to flange. Call up MOser thay sell a kit that will have all of the brackets and torque arm mount. Fabricate away.
Thanks, that's exactly what I needed to know.
Old 03-24-2005, 09:26 PM
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If you are planning on using the OE peices and replacing the ends or narrowing you'll need a fixture to insure accurate alignment it will set you back a few hundred bucks... and if you have not welded on a housing you can destroy one in a jiffy...
Old 03-24-2005, 09:50 PM
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Default Straightening jig.

See mittlerbros.com web site, they have the jig your looking for, and it's only $450.00 for the basic kit.
Old 03-25-2005, 07:12 PM
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could just buy the 4th gen housing/axle kit from the big guys and use your pumpkin and brakes.
Old 03-27-2005, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by CTSmechanic
If you are planning on using the OE peices and replacing the ends or narrowing you'll need a fixture to insure accurate alignment it will set you back a few hundred bucks... and if you have not welded on a housing you can destroy one in a jiffy...
I appreciate the info, I already have the narrowing jig. I build/fabricate for Year One and worked at a chassis shop in college. I also built my 25.2 SFI chassis in shop at the house. I did some research and found a 73 Torino Rear is 2" narrower on each side, this is exactly what I'm looking for. This way I can run standard offset wheels (again more parts left-over from past projects). Originally I was going to buy the Moser Housing and axles, but then I decided that I can save a bunch of money by doing it this way (the money I saved was spent on a Big Shot system for it). In addition the Moser torque arm bracket weighs a ton, add to that the bracket that came with the new torque arm. I sketched out a bracket that will weld/bolt to the housing and bolt directly to the torque arm at a fraction of the weight. And because it will be triangulated off of the housing it should be stronger then the other two brackets bolted together. I found a 73 Grand Torino in the local Pull-A-Part, A friend was there and measured everything to double check the info I found online. He also checked to make sure that it has 31 spline axles. I'm going to swing by tomorrow and pull it out, and I can't beat the price $47-$65 for a complete rear axle without brakes. I'm going to search around for a E-100 van center, some of the vans are supposed to have 4.10 gears and some are supposed to be Track Lock. Which would be better then a one of the spools on the street.
Old 03-29-2005, 11:38 AM
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if your planning on running big motor/shot and sticky tires I'd be careful when using a OE third member 31 spline or not its not usually the axles that break first...
Old 03-29-2005, 01:19 PM
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At least try for a War Case if you cannot get a Nodular case.

CMC
Old 03-29-2005, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawkcmc
At least try for a War Case if you cannot get a Nodular case.

CMC
It's been a while since i've researched 9inches since the one in my 69 stang isn't breaking but i do believe the WAR case is the weakest. The nodular is the strongest followed by the standard case then the WAR case. The standard case is plenty strong. I have a friend that was running 8' s at 160mph in the qtr on a standard case 9 inch. He ran it for a few years before he finally broke it. The reason is he was showing off at the track and went with double the amount of laughing gas he usually uses off the line.
Old 03-29-2005, 04:29 PM
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I'm not too worried about the case, two of the cases from my other car were stock cases with spools and I didn't have problems with the cases. Like mentioned above I did have axle problems. That's why I'm using them for this car, I switched that car over to 35 spline axles. I'm trying to build this one cheap just to have have something to play with until the other car is finished.




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