carbon fiber or alum dirve shaft?
#1
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carbon fiber or alum dirve shaft?
Im buying a TA that has around 420 rwhp and a c/h, headers, 12" rear, race trans, 100 shot, etc...
The car has previously ran a 11.7 or so in the 1/4 with a crappy 1.9 60ft.
He has a STOCK driveshaft on it now and I wanted to start to look into a new driveshaft.
Problem is, im new to the scene and am wondering if the $$$ differenece for the CF is worth it???
If not, can you guys tell me a good company to buy from?
The car has previously ran a 11.7 or so in the 1/4 with a crappy 1.9 60ft.
He has a STOCK driveshaft on it now and I wanted to start to look into a new driveshaft.
Problem is, im new to the scene and am wondering if the $$$ differenece for the CF is worth it???
If not, can you guys tell me a good company to buy from?
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I ran my stock aluminum DS with no problems and my car ran high 11's. DS had over 130 track passes, but it is a A4 car. I just ordered a LPE 3.5 Alumnum DS for my new setup with a Strange 12 bolt.
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#10
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Might as well build the drivetrain to take any future abuse. I personally run a steel nitrous driveshaft. I've seen some torn up aluminum ones so I wanted the upgrade. One of my best friends has a CF that is yet to be installed. I am anxious to get his feedback once it is though. I would love to have a CF one, but the price is ^^^^
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CF is very strong, and Light but it is pricy. Pro Stock trucks ran CF driveshafts. The problem with CF is that it is very strong as long as nothing hits it, if something hits it its gone. Another good thing is your car will never pole vault on a carbon fiber shaft, if it breaks it just breaks into a million pieces. My wifes 350Z came stock with a Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
#15
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I have a carbon fiber drive shaft on my Trans Am. It has been on my car for over 5 years and I have yet to have a problem (I live on a dirt road). I replaced my stock drive shaft with it and now I have ZERO vibrations. If I was to do it again, I would get a nitrous-ready shaft for the piece of mind and also for the $$$ saved. I paid close to $800 for the CF shaft, aside from the complete loss of all vibrations (which can be had with any other quality shaft) ... it just not worth the money. Just my worthless opinion....
#17
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A steel shaft with a billet slip yoke is a great setup if you are mainly concerned with drag racing. If you are primarily street driving with some light-medium track duty thrown in now and then, I would look into a 3.5" Al shaft. If you are doing ORR or road racing where you will consistently see high shaft speeds then you will want Al or CF. The main advantages to the CF are the higher critical speed, which will allow more RPM without vibration, and the lower rotating mass. This is true for aluminum as well, but to a lesser extent. Steel would have the lowest critical speed and highest rotating mass and therefore should only be used where strength is the primary concern.
Two good driveshaft resources for more info:
www.markwilliams.com
www.dennysdriveshaft.com
Two good driveshaft resources for more info:
www.markwilliams.com
www.dennysdriveshaft.com
#18
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I have read somewere that the CF ones stretch over time, and the ends on the treads start to fray were the aluminum caps are. When that happens it is time for a replacement. As far as i've heard that was all from skyline and evo applications. Just returned from the import world when i bought my Z-28
#19
I've been thinking about a Cf drive shaft for my truck. i plan on a t70 turbo setup lateer on, and i've been told that my 68" steel drive will bow under the torque. It seems that CF would be my only other option. Is 68" too long for even a CF? That is 68 from tip of yoke to yoke.
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Houdini, who made your CF driveshaft?
And an open question to anybody: do you need to have a driveshaft loop to pass inspection for fast passes at the track if you're running a carbon fiber shaft?
And an open question to anybody: do you need to have a driveshaft loop to pass inspection for fast passes at the track if you're running a carbon fiber shaft?