JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

My car's in the shop ... 10-bolt going back together today.

I supplied an eaton posi unit (part# 19599-1) ... bought it from Thunder Racing. It's advertised as 'bullet-proof'.

Can anyone tell me if the internals are better than the Zexell-Torson/Auburn posi units?

I realize the 10-bolt WILL break eventually. How much condience with the Eaton posi do you have?

Any experienced Eaton owners ?

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

ttt anyone?

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

My rear-end blew out, and I bought new parts, 3.73's and a Detroit TruTrac + master installation kit for the 10-bolt, took it someplace, they were dumb and couldn't do it, had it towed to a dealership, and the estimate they gave me to put together the rear-end (I supplied everything necessary, even the oil and posi-trac fluid) was 640+. Now, I'm thinking this maybe WAY over what it should cost....what do you think?

Haans

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Well Haans, mine is a different scenario. One year ago, I paid to have 3.73 gears installed to replace the 3.23's. When the rearend broke last week, it was because they did a shitty install and the bolt backed out and two of the heads snapped off and it messed up my Zexel-Torson posi. If the rear had not busted, I would have never known they screwed me on my gears.

So, I made them install the 3.73's and they didn't charge me for that, however, I furnished the Eaton posi and they bought 2 $40.00 bearings and ended up charging me only $117.70, but, I had to buy a $470.00 posi with tax and $70.00.

The first gear swap alone (a year ago) was about $700.00 and they furnished the installation kit and gears. All-in-all, I think it was good price if they hadn't screwed me by installing the wrong gear size.

If you're supplying the parts, I wouldn't pay over $400.00 for the install. This is accounting for the shops tools and standing behind their work ... everybody walks away happy, IMHO.

Kakarot2569

for 1400 bucks you can get a decent 9" with a posi, why even put any money into that 10 bolt, its a bomb just ticking away.

Blacker

iTrader: (3)

At any rate, if the differential doesn't break, the next weak link will. If you keep it together and get a 12 bolt, you will have a nice 10 bolt to sell in the future. If you have any wheel hop, get that fixed. This is a killer even for the mighty 9".

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I keep my 10-bolt because I don't make enough HP to break it. If I go up over 400 RWHQ/RWTQ or if I take it to the track, yes, it's a bomb ... also with wheel hop even on the street.

I long ago eliminated wheel hop, so no worries here when it comes to breaking it on the street. My Torson was still going strong and you can't drive a car any harder than mine has been driven unless to tale it to the dragstip. The install was poor because the bolts backed out and snapped the heads off, thus, the damage.

If I were going with anything that's fairly streetable, I'd go for a Strange 12-bolt ... just my opinion. Near $3,500.00 installed and still keep the ABS and Traction Control.

If I want no ABS ... no Traction Control ... and I spend most of my time straght-lining it, then a 9" would certainly be the way to go.

As with anything else with these cars, it all depends on compromise between budget and what your goals are.

So, back to the question, how much confidence do you have in an Eaton posi vs Zexel-Torson vs Auburn?

Blacker

iTrader: (3)

The Eaton is much better than the stock diff's.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for the advice, but its too late to do that, I had run out of option esp because it is my only car atm... so I guess I'll just save that rear-end for sale later, plus I have the old 10 bolt from before that I can sell too with the old zexel....( I had replaced my old 10 bolt with a brand new one from GM for the firehawk for only 270!!!) So all in all, I should just get the 12 bolt.

To add another question to the whole mix, which rear can handle more power? the 12 bolt or 9"?

As far as the Diff's go, I did my research on all of them, and I believe that getting a Detroit TruTrac LSD is definitely the way to go. Those things are monsters, and are super smooth and quiet.

Haans

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

okay give me a link where i can get a 9 inch for 1400$ to go in my 02 z28

secondly, my install up the road will cost me 150$ period and im supplying the parts, if i didn't it would be 150 + parts lol.. highest ive ever seen around here is 250.. with the average being 200.. ya'll are getting ripped off.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

Yea...........I know, but I don't have any other option at the moment.....


As far as posi's? What do you all think about the detroit Trutrac....thats what I'm having put into my rear as we speak

DynoDR

iTrader: (1)

No one is getting ripped off, some people just like working for nothing.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

I think I'm getting ripped off because I was told that the guy who's working on my car is checking backlash by driving my vehicle.....I'm guessing that means he's driving it without being sure of his setting, and also WITHOUT any gear fluid.
I'm not an idiot, and I'm also not an expert, but I'm pretty Fu*king sure that you're not supposed to drive around the car to check backlash, but there is a tool that you're supposed to use instead. Because I've heard from just about everyone, that rebuilding the rear-end is MUCH easier to do when the rear-end is not even mounted.....so I'm assuming that no one is going to take that out for a spin?! I'm really starting to assume that the person working on my car, just doesn't know what he's doing because my car has been in the shop for 3 days, and its not even done yet!! Shouldn't this only be like a 3-4 hour job for a knowledgable person?!

Haans

electricz28

You get what you pay for. It will not cost you any more or less if the rearend is on or off the car. Its a no brainer to change your unit since it will cost the same as doing a gear swap. Dump that Torsen unit and I wouldn't even consider an Auburn unit they are weak and unreliable and not to mention they can't be rebuilt like the Eaton units can. If you use the Eaton you will chunk something else long before the Eaton lets go. Just a little advice about having you wrenches turned by a shop, unless you see ASE certs. displayed don't even think about it. Yeah it may be cheaper in some guys backyard shop but by the time you pay for it twice to have it done the wrong way it will be a whole lot cheaper to save up, and pay for it once. Sure you will have to pay shop rates but remeber you get what you pay for. I had to learn by a lesson in adversity and I just want others to benefit from my lessons. These shops that operate without certs. should be shut down if they are going screw the general public or some younger person that doesn't have alot and is mislead because they are trying to save a buck.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

okay i htink im doing my own gear install with my dad whos done them before.. were gonna get some tools to do it with or some ****.. how good or bad of an idea is that eaton posi.. with the richmond 4.10's

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I've had mine in my car a grand total of 1 week ... LOL!!! I bought the Eaton because of the research I did and because of feedback I have had from others who have them. I put it beside my old Torson unit and you can SEE the difference.

If anyone wants to see close-up pictures of the Eaton 15991-010, I took a bunch when mine arrived at my doorstep. I'd be happy to send them to anyone who would like to look at them.

electricz28

Eaton good/Richmond bad. Try some Motive or GM gears.