ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

i have a bolt on only car and there is a 99% chance its going to stay that way. i got to the track maybe 2-3 times a year but i do go. i run 315 nittos for daily driving and im having a VERY hard time justifying almost 3 grand for a rear that im never going to tap the potential of. do u think i would be ok running a 10 bolt with an eaton posi, stud kit, girdle, moser axles, and a quality gear or is this still a timebomb? thanx in advance.

MattIROC

iTrader: (19)

I think you'd be ok since you are upgrading all the parts. What kind of times are you running with your setup? HP ratings?

REDSS01

iTrader: (25)

It don't matter what mods you have done, if it hooks=kboom!

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, just break it first and then your question about whether you need it will be answered. Then you just buy it!

Seriously, I believe there is a good chance, IMO.

nitrousboyWS6

iTrader: (19)

If you plan on doing any type of power adder (nitrous, supercharger, heads&cam) then spring for the 9 inch or 12 bolt. 99% isn't a 100%. If you do all that work on the 10 bolt then it breaks after all it was a waste of money.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I busted my Torsen with a lid, catback and nittos. The ring gear (Richmond 4.10) then busted with an Eaton, stud kit, and cover.

Ric

I haven't had any trouble out of my 10 yet, but then I'm still stock. I talked with a guy who sells on eBay about fabbing a Ford 9" for F-bodies. I'll PM you about it.

As far as upgrading, it's up to you. If you can sleep good knowing you're not overdoing it, then don't worry about it. Of course, you're asking US about your axle, so I'd venture to say you're questioning its strength... GOOD insurance would be a beefier axle. That way you could drive the P!$$ out of it and not worry one bit.

Really and truly, the 10-bolt is PUNY... of all things to take one from, WHY did GM use the S-10 axle??? The full-size 10-bolt is actually pretty dang stout(Comparable to a Dana 44), plus you can get 3.90 gears for it.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

There's a procharged and sprayed TA at the track I go to still on the the stock rear, he sais it's holding up fine. BTW he run's 11's with DR's.

ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

well i will never do a power adder the 99% was possiblity of a small cam like the grandpa cam or z06 cam. this is a daily driver not a track car but does see some action. maybe an 8.8 conversion might be better for me.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

aYou can buy a used 10 bolt for about $200 and keep it for a spare.

Valkyn

iTrader: (8)

I bet its not a M6

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Yeeessss it iiiiissss.

Chris81

iTrader: (1)

Just slip the clutch a bit, they'll live alot longer if you don't dump it..

I've cut numerous 1.7 60' with a stock rearend with 4.10's and an LS6 clutch with BFG's, I just slip the clutch just enough to take the strain off the drivetrain and get the tires to spin just enough to keep the car from bogging.

SilverFox_SS

u are wasting money u could be spending on the 12bolt-9" .
it's just a matter of time before your 10 bolt blows

Chris81

iTrader: (1)

For going to the track 2-3 times a year?

If your careful, I think you will be alright..

Usually, everyone hears about all the 10 bolt failures but no one hears about people that have decent luck with them.. (like me)

I race ALL the time and can't justify the money for a rearend, driveshaft, rebuilding the transmission, new clutch, supporting suspension and drag wheels and/or slicks if i'm having no problems now.. (although, I will do all of the above, just not yet). I would rather spend another $180 on ring and pinion if it broke (more likely with 4.10's) or another used carrier than all that other money on everything else and possibly not go any faster. On top of that, people break 12 bolt/9in rearends as well, they aren't invincible.. you never know.. thats racing.

JMHO.

menlatin

i hear a solid pinion spacer instead of a crush sleeve can be a 10-bolt saver. The crush sleeve will crush more under heavy load and that causes alot of the damage.