The noise is gone!!!!
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The noise is gone!!!!
After a couple of headaches getting axle bearings out and trouble with tightening the pinion bearing, I finished this project this weekend! I changed the axle bearings, pinion bearings, and differential bearings. (and races) It turned out to be more of a chore than I expected, but that's what I get for doing it by myself and without the right tools from the start. Other than that, the noisy rear end is quiet!!!! I can't remember the last time I didn't hear anything back there. Once again everyone who helped on this thread and the others; thanks for the info and invaluable link!
-Marc
-Marc
Last edited by Marc '99T/A; 10-16-2005 at 09:55 PM.
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The most important step is having all the proper tools.
The hardest steps were getting the axle bearings out (until I went to Autozone and checked out their rear bearing puller to put on my slide hammer) and tightening the pinion nut. (I had to borrow a friend's air compressor and impact wrench.)
It gets frustrating doing it by yourself; I'd reccomend having a buddy to help. Remember, though, all I did was do a basic rebuild, replacing all the bearings. I kept the same shims because the same gearset went back in. I can only imagine the fun I would have had if I had to deal with figuring out all that!
Otherwise, its very rewarding knowing that I was able to fix the problem myself, even if it did take way too long.
The hardest steps were getting the axle bearings out (until I went to Autozone and checked out their rear bearing puller to put on my slide hammer) and tightening the pinion nut. (I had to borrow a friend's air compressor and impact wrench.)
It gets frustrating doing it by yourself; I'd reccomend having a buddy to help. Remember, though, all I did was do a basic rebuild, replacing all the bearings. I kept the same shims because the same gearset went back in. I can only imagine the fun I would have had if I had to deal with figuring out all that!
Otherwise, its very rewarding knowing that I was able to fix the problem myself, even if it did take way too long.
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#8
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when i reset the gears in my 89s 10 bolt myself i used an impact gun and tightened it untill if felt as tight as it did before i took it apart
rear was dead quite
rear was dead quite
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Where did you get the stuff to do this and how much did it cost you? Also, what noises did you have coming out of the rear. I currently have a WHOOMP WHOOMP WHOOMP sound almost like I have a mud tire on.
#10
i just checked mine today and the pinion bearings are bad, the axle bearings sound ok. my noise is like a metal humming that gets loader with more speed. i lifted the car and put it in drive with wheels turning i used a long screw driver to hear. you put one end on the location of the bearing and the other on your ear. i dont know if i want to tackle this job myself. marc how many hours did it take?
#11
I just put 373's in my car last night, took me and my dad about 7 hours todo it. For what marc did it probably took 5-6 hours. Having to setup shims and all that good stuff is a PITA!!@! I have a little bit of a whine noise at 55+ and when Im deaccelerating. Im gonna give it a few days and pull the cover back off and check everything. We did all this with no gauges, nothing, I dont recommend anyone do it that way, but its able to be done I guess, because we got it goin . Like I said, some adjustments still need to be made, but for the most part its good! So make sure you got the right tools anytime you do this chore and you should be good to go!
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Sorry I haven't responded; I'm moving and I don't have computer access like I used to.
I got the bearings and seals at NAPA. They had everything except for the pinion seal, so I picked that up at the dealership when I went to visit a buddy of mine. Everything all together was well over $100. (I think it might've been closer to $150.) Don't remember how much exactly, though. That included six bearings, four races, three seals, fluids, and misc. tools, like a 4.5 lb mallet, an adapter set for my sockets, a heat gun, an 18" pipe wrench, etc... so this obviously added to my expenses. They sell two qualities of bearings. I always get the better of the two. I think the bearings range from like $12-$18, depending on which one it is. When you change the bearings, remember, you should change that bearing's race (cup). They range from like $4-$8. The seals run about the same as the races. These prices are really rough estimates, though. Your best bet is to call your local parts stores. If they have Timken bearins, definately go with them. (really good quality)
Also, definately check out these two write-ups I got from other members:
http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/fscu/axletech/
Total time it took me is kinda hard to say, since I kept having to run around and get things I should've had from the start, like an air compressor, impact wrench, Auto Zone's awesome attachment for a slide hammer to pull axle bearings, etc... Total work time was actually about 10 hours. I know it should've taken me about 4-5, but I was by myself, and I deliberately went slow because I had never done this before. If you have someone with you, espically someone who has done similar work before, it will go much faster. I'm glad I did it, but I'm also glad its over. You can do it if you just follow the info in the links and have all the tools. Just take your time if you need to, like I did.
-Marc
I got the bearings and seals at NAPA. They had everything except for the pinion seal, so I picked that up at the dealership when I went to visit a buddy of mine. Everything all together was well over $100. (I think it might've been closer to $150.) Don't remember how much exactly, though. That included six bearings, four races, three seals, fluids, and misc. tools, like a 4.5 lb mallet, an adapter set for my sockets, a heat gun, an 18" pipe wrench, etc... so this obviously added to my expenses. They sell two qualities of bearings. I always get the better of the two. I think the bearings range from like $12-$18, depending on which one it is. When you change the bearings, remember, you should change that bearing's race (cup). They range from like $4-$8. The seals run about the same as the races. These prices are really rough estimates, though. Your best bet is to call your local parts stores. If they have Timken bearins, definately go with them. (really good quality)
Also, definately check out these two write-ups I got from other members:
http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/fscu/axletech/
Total time it took me is kinda hard to say, since I kept having to run around and get things I should've had from the start, like an air compressor, impact wrench, Auto Zone's awesome attachment for a slide hammer to pull axle bearings, etc... Total work time was actually about 10 hours. I know it should've taken me about 4-5, but I was by myself, and I deliberately went slow because I had never done this before. If you have someone with you, espically someone who has done similar work before, it will go much faster. I'm glad I did it, but I'm also glad its over. You can do it if you just follow the info in the links and have all the tools. Just take your time if you need to, like I did.
-Marc