Strahley

iTrader: (4)

I took everything off to get to all of the wheel studs on my car, and I'm ready to put the new rear studs in. Only problem, the e brake isn't working all the sudden, and I can't torque in the new studs. It was working fine before I lifted the car. If I pull the e-brake handle, it goes ALL the way up, not just about 1/2 way like it normally did. I put the ABS ring things back on, but the e-brake still is not working. If it matters, the PCM is out (getting tuned) and the battery is unhooked, but I would imagine neither of those would matter for the e brake working. Any suggestions? This really sucks

Orange99Z

iTrader: (25)

I know it's rather obvious, but are the rear rotors on the car? Nothing electrical will stop the e-brake from working.

Carter Hays

You have an 01? First make sure you connected the cables. It has a drum style e-brake setup in there, so adjust the shoes out until you get a nice snug fit.

Like Orange99Z are the rotors on I was doing a brake job on an old 87 truck my dumb *** forgot to put the drums back on put the wheels on, took it off the rack and

Simple stuff is easy to overlook, double check everything.
I'm sure it's nothing major.

Strahley

iTrader: (4)

The rotors have to be on?? Man oh man...

Well I had them off so I could put new wheel studs on, I didn't think it would be a good idea to torque down the new wheel studs with the rotors on. How should I go about this?

Strahley

iTrader: (4)

Rotors and back on and the ebrake works again (that's amazing how that works...) - With using the same "pull it with a lug nut" method as I did on the front, how do I go about doing this? Is it safe to pull the wheel studs through with the rotors on? Or can I remove the rotors and have the ebrake still activated? Or will it deactivate once the rotors are removed?

bluedrago

iTrader: (1)

The ebrake is only connected to the rear brakes.
-Johnny