gr8one99SS

iTrader: (4)

I need a new posi and i really cant afford to buy the 12 bolt yet. Auburn? or torsen? thanks guys

white_camaro

iTrader: (13)

are you still leaving two tracks during burnouts? just wondering because i think my torsen might be going but im not sure, i leave two tracks last time i checked but the car's tailend is walking left hella during the burnouts. im going to change the differential fluid this week and see if that helps, the car's only got 39k i would hope that the posi would last longer than that.

gr8one99SS

iTrader: (4)

im only getting 1 wheel burnout and come off the line sideways.

98_1LE

iTrader: (17)

If you mainly drag race and/or do straight line burnouts etc, and Auburn will hold up better. If you frequently power out of a corner, a Torsen would be preferred. For serious corner work, a Torsen T2R is the choice IMO.

gr8one99SS

iTrader: (4)

do they offer a trutrac for the ol 10 bolt and would it be better. Mainly drag car?

The LT1 That Could

iTrader: (3)

i am in the same boat, and want to know the opinions between an Auburn (if i can find a used one), and the Eaton Super Duty

gr8one99SS

iTrader: (4)

can anyone else chime in?

gr8one99SS

iTrader: (4)

I guess no one ever repaces the posi? let hear some more opinons guys. Aurburn, Torsen? Do they make a tru trac for a 10 bolt and if so where can i buy one ?

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

I recommend against buying a used Auburn, think about it, they're not rebuildable so why else would someone sell it unless they upgraded.
As far as an Eaton, they are rebuildable so new or used you can get it to operate like new if it doesn't already.

If you're going to get in a situation where one tire might be hanging in the air (remember this is an LS1 site and this includes trucks) then the Torsen is useless.

The rear getting sideways on dry pavement in my past 18 years of driving experience means both tires are spinning. Never had an open diff get sideways, unless the spider gears were broken and it was locked up.

If it's a drag car I see no problem with an Auburn, I have one in an 8.5 in an 11 second car, no problems.
My brother put an Eaton in his 4x4 daily driver, no problems there either. Only thing is the Auburn is an Auburn, an Eaton can be upgraded with stronger preload springs, etc, there is some adjustability.

I don't see anything wrong with a Torsen for drag racing as long as you don't break it, if you do don't think about getting another one. They also either work or don't work, there are no clutches to wear out.

Also a few people I've seen at the track need to learn how to do a burnout with a clutch type posi, you can start out easy and spin one tire because preload is the only force trying to lock it. If you put power to it quick the spider gears try to un-mesh from the side gears, this pushes the side gears into the clutches and locks them.

FWIW I used to run a 1969 8.2 Auburn for years, it worked fine. You can tell when they're shot because the cone bottoms out before the sides touch, and theres a lot of space between the spider gears.

AFTICA

iTrader: (8)

I broke the spider gears on my stock Auburn with a 1.60 launch. Not wanting to replace the 10 bolt I also went looking for posi units. My research come up with nothing on a tru-track, and some info on the Eaton and the Auburn Pro. Didn't find many guys using the Eatons (in a 10 bolt) that were launching hard but found a few guys using the Auburn Pro units that were in the 1.5x - 1.6x launching range. One guy has MANY low 1.5x and high 1.4x 60 ft times on his Pro unit.
I decided to go with the Auburn Pro unit for 3 reasons;

1. Found one on here barely used at a decent price.
2. Auburn will replace (not rebuild) the unit for about $100 if you break it or wear it out. I think it's a five year warranty. Check out their website to be sure.
3. If it's holding up to hundreds of 1.5x 60 ft runs for the other guys, that will be good enough for me until something else breaks in the rear end.

QUASAR

iTrader: (6)

To my amazement over the last few months i've seen that you can get a True-trac in a 10 bolt, AND a detroit locker in a 10 bolt. Probably 2 of the stongest options out there.

Auburn pro's use a stronger steel in the pinion and side gears than an oem auburn, and tougher springs for more preload on the clutches. If you are an automatic car that will 60' no harder than 1.6, an auburn pro will work good. I do not reccomend the auburn in a manual car.

QUASAR

iTrader: (6)

I think someone already mentioned it before me, but for $100-115 you can send in your old Aubrun oem or Pro and have it replaced with a new one. No questions asked. It doesnt even have to be broken. As long as its less than 4 years old.

How can you beat that, beat on your posi for almost 4 years, you get a brand new posi for $100. You can install it yourself too.

AFTICA

iTrader: (8)

Two questions for you;

Who sells the True-track or Detroit locker for the 10 bolts?

Do either of them behave well in a street car? (Chattering, clunks, etc)

gr8one99SS

iTrader: (4)

thanks guys so for my weekend strip/street car it sounds like the auburn pro would be best. Has anyone used a tru trac in a 10 bolt yet? Would you recomend buying a new auburn off of ebay or not? Will i still be able to send it to auburn for replacement?

AFTICA

iTrader: (8)

I would like to hear from any 10 bolt True-Track or Detroit locker guys also to see if there's any issues like chattering or clunking.

To answer your question about replacement, yes they will replace it as long as it's in the warranty period. They check the age by the date stamped in the carrier. ONLY if that's out of date will they ask for a receipt. So if you buy it off e-bay you want to check what date is stamped on it to see exactly how much warranty is still left on it. Auburns website shows you how to check the date.

gr8one99SS

iTrader: (4)

thank you aftica . another question i had is how can you tell the difference from a stock style to the pro style auburn?

AFTICA

iTrader: (8)

There are several differences but the only difference you can actually see is the springs.They are MUCH heavier springs than stock.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

Like I said I used an old 1969 Auburn in an 8.2 rear for years with no problems. And it was a factory unit.

Auburns exchange program details.

Four years is not a lot of time to wear one out. And like I said I wouldn't buy a used one. What if it's worn out and over four years old.

The LT1 That Could

iTrader: (3)

sooo, for straight line performance alone....very rarely driven on the street, and never goes corner carving, would the Auburn/Eaton be a better choice, or the Zexel Torsen??

dailydriver

Even for corner carving, (in a 10 bolt) the Auburn Pro or Eaton CF posi are better than a stock T2 Torsen They are both stronger than a stock T2 for drag racing. A T2R Torsen is the ultimate 10 bolt "twisties" diff.