Stock 10 bolt q's
05-03-2006, 09:45 AM
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Stock 10 bolt q's Just wondering if its worth hooking up my 10 bolt to possibly last longer than it should, i will be making between 420-430 hp and i want to put a nice set of dr's on my goal is mid - hi 11's, i know the stock 10 bolt wont last long but what are the steps to making it last longer if any, or should i just leave it break it and save for a 12 bolt for now, and just not try for 11's. Is anybody running a stock 10 bolt into the 11's
05-03-2006, 09:09 PM
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To help a 7.5" 10-bolt live as long as possible, here's a list of things you can do:
* Replace the axles with Moser or Superior replacement axles.
* Replace the Torsen diff (if this is what you have) with an Auburn or Eaton unit. For road racing the Torsen is great, but for hard launches w/sticky tires, it isn't as strong as the other units mentioned. There is a stronger Torsen unit available (SLP carries it), but for the price, you'd be better off going with the Eaton or Auburn for drag racing.
* NOTE on axles & diff carrier - if you do replace the diff with one of the above units, see if you can get a unit .... and the axles (above) with more splines .... like 30 or more.
* High quality ring & pinion set. Set them up on the tight side (backlash) and with a footprint in the middle area of the ring gear teeth.
* Fully weld the axle tubes to the center housing, so they can't rotate.
* Replace all of the bearings regularly.
* Use a TA rear cover with bearing cap pre-load screws.
* Replace the axles with Moser or Superior replacement axles.
* Replace the Torsen diff (if this is what you have) with an Auburn or Eaton unit. For road racing the Torsen is great, but for hard launches w/sticky tires, it isn't as strong as the other units mentioned. There is a stronger Torsen unit available (SLP carries it), but for the price, you'd be better off going with the Eaton or Auburn for drag racing.
* NOTE on axles & diff carrier - if you do replace the diff with one of the above units, see if you can get a unit .... and the axles (above) with more splines .... like 30 or more.
* High quality ring & pinion set. Set them up on the tight side (backlash) and with a footprint in the middle area of the ring gear teeth.
* Fully weld the axle tubes to the center housing, so they can't rotate.
* Replace all of the bearings regularly.
* Use a TA rear cover with bearing cap pre-load screws.
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05-04-2006, 12:48 AM
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So basically I should just save for either the 12 bolt or 9". Well this will bring me to another question which one is better, ive heard that the 9" takes more power to move than it does to move the 12 bolt whats your opinions.
05-04-2006, 08:59 AM
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All depends what your goals are with your car. If you're just shooting for mid to high 11's like I am, then a 12 bolt will be sufficient enough for you. If you're wanting to go beyond that point then start looking into a 9" or the new S60.
I've debated this question now for the past 3 months now and have decided to just run a 12 bolt. I don't plan on running any quicker then low 11's. Of course if I can find a 9" for less then $2k I'll buy it.
I've debated this question now for the past 3 months now and have decided to just run a 12 bolt. I don't plan on running any quicker then low 11's. Of course if I can find a 9" for less then $2k I'll buy it.
05-04-2006, 11:56 AM
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Don't waste money on the 10bolt. The manual trans and sticky tire combo is a pretty hard hitter, I would just save your cash and get a good rearend under the car.
05-04-2006, 12:14 PM
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My best advice is to race close to home so the tow bill will not cost alot. AAA+ members get 100 miles free tow and i've used it numerous times. 97 miles from home to my closest track. I've only cut a 1.9 60 on the 10 bolt and it sounded like marbles in a can so I lifted. Try and keep the tires from dead hooking and ride the clutch out till the tires bite and then hammer down. Either way with H/C DR's and 10 bolt your on borrowed time.
Don't spend money polishing a turd aka 10 bolt. Save it for the better axle and tow bill.
Don't spend money polishing a turd aka 10 bolt. Save it for the better axle and tow bill.
05-04-2006, 09:28 PM
#14
I have had 4.30's in my stock 10bolt with T/A cover for almost 2yrs with many deep 11 second passes on it @ 124+mph.
My 60's average 1.78-1.81 on 275/40 17" Nitto DR's........I just slip the clutch a tad of idle and let the gear work.
The trick is not to get excessive wheel-hop and have someone who knows these rear ends do your work........I was lucky enough to have Allan Futral owner of FMS set my up gears.
My 60's average 1.78-1.81 on 275/40 17" Nitto DR's........I just slip the clutch a tad of idle and let the gear work.
The trick is not to get excessive wheel-hop and have someone who knows these rear ends do your work........I was lucky enough to have Allan Futral owner of FMS set my up gears.
05-07-2006, 08:47 AM
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so do you get more or less wheel spin with deeper gears? If you go deeper gears do you now have to get stickier tires and is that the reason the 10 bolts dont hold up because you go deeper and sticker so now you have to launch harder at higher rpm and really jolt the rear?
05-07-2006, 04:35 PM
#16
near as i can tell the 10 bolt is on borrowed time from the factory...i blew my stock 3.42's (i have an M6) on just normal driving! and cause i didn't have the coin at the time for a 9" or 12 bolt, i just got 3.73 gears and a rebuild kit and had scott from the Driveline-Solutions (sponsor) put it in for me...i have about 5,000 miles on the new gears, and they blew on me today while i was just out cruising with a local F-body club
05-07-2006, 11:39 PM
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yeah that happened to my buddys 96 1LE 6spd he was goin around a rotary and he threw a tooth wasnt doing anything normal driving...
So basically I should save up for a 9" and prob throw some 3:90, 3:91's in there so ive got the best of both worlds yes/no. Or should I just go with the 4:11-4:10's
So basically I should save up for a 9" and prob throw some 3:90, 3:91's in there so ive got the best of both worlds yes/no. Or should I just go with the 4:11-4:10's
07-04-2006, 08:15 PM
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ok here's one for ya, bone stock SS m6 SLP car 345 hp wishing it could get to the ground .. future plans = no more than cam,intake full exhaust and MAYBE 75 shot stricly street tires .. will a "built" 10bolt hold up to spinning street tires on the street practicly no track time??