12 bolt owners inside plus people with knowledge
#1
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12 bolt owners inside plus people with knowledge
ok im getting more serious about drag racing since its fun and safe. well anyways im just curious as to what you guys payed for and what kinda of you have on your car. you can pm me if you dont want people to know.
now here's another question i want to order one but im just curious if the following parts are really needed or not. im not trying to go cheap but im not trying to kill my pocket book. so with that said: do i need (1) the upgraded yoke from a 1310 to a 1350? (2) the upgraded diff. cover? (3) im going with slicks and skinnes also will the 1/2x3mm lugs be enough? thanks in advance.
now here's another question i want to order one but im just curious if the following parts are really needed or not. im not trying to go cheap but im not trying to kill my pocket book. so with that said: do i need (1) the upgraded yoke from a 1310 to a 1350? (2) the upgraded diff. cover? (3) im going with slicks and skinnes also will the 1/2x3mm lugs be enough? thanks in advance.
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well to be completely honest if u wanna go with the 12-bolt u can call Moser direct or whom ever u are going to deal with and they will be glad to answer these questions for u....customer service at Moser is great IMO..honest people....
#3
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If you are truly serious and want to utilize a 12 bolt..... quit dealing with the underlings.
Call Mark Williams lay down the $3k and dont look back.
Yes, you should step up to a 1350 series joint and slip yolk for the trans.
Upgrade the diff cover ?? Well, if it actually did something (which it doesnt), then maybe. But until then, no.
1/2 x 3 studs are a good starting point. 5/8 would be better. Remember that the studs, nuts, wheels and rules of the sanctioning body in which you race, will be specific to the class in which you run.... most of the time. But 5/8 hardware and all the associated parts to go along with it, are specific..... which can increase the cost in some parts. Like the use of drive studs and the wheels that are associated with using them... etc.
Call Mark Williams lay down the $3k and dont look back.
Yes, you should step up to a 1350 series joint and slip yolk for the trans.
Upgrade the diff cover ?? Well, if it actually did something (which it doesnt), then maybe. But until then, no.
1/2 x 3 studs are a good starting point. 5/8 would be better. Remember that the studs, nuts, wheels and rules of the sanctioning body in which you race, will be specific to the class in which you run.... most of the time. But 5/8 hardware and all the associated parts to go along with it, are specific..... which can increase the cost in some parts. Like the use of drive studs and the wheels that are associated with using them... etc.
#4
I would go with the Moser 9 inch rearend. It is stronger than the 12 bolt, plus the torque arm mount utilizes the stock style torque arm bolts, that stay tight without having to use loctite. $2,400 shipping without ABS/TCS, $2,500 shipped with ABS/TCS. Bob