xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

Just recently ordered my Moser 9" bolt in assembly. Got 35 spline axles, a spool, 4.11 gears, 1350 yoke, LT1 camaro disc brakes, aluminum center section with bolt through billet main caps.

Here is a picture of how the center section comes direct from Moser in a plastic tub.


First thing I did was take the housing out of the box, wipe it down with grease and wax remover from any parts store then prime and paint it with chassis black paint. Next you install the carrier studs, by placing the stud through the housing, stacking some washers onto the stud and use a nut to pull the stud through, I bought an extra set of nuts for under a $1 at a hardware store to toss out after pulling the studs through.



Here is a picture after placing the carrier onto the housing and tightening all the 9/16" nuts onto the studs. You can also see the 4 bolts that go through the center section for the main caps due to the bolt through aluminum center. This is also where I mocked up the axles since they are different lengths and learned that the passenger side axle is shorter than the drivers side, which matters due to the different offset of the caliper backing plates from LH and RH sides.



Next I had the axle bearings pressed onto the axles. The order of assembly is caliper bracket, then 1/8" shim for the LT1 brakes(LS1 brakes omit this step), then the sealed bearing with O-ring side facing towards axle flange, then the press ring. I dropped it off at a local carquest machine shop, waited 30 minutes and it cost me $15 per side. After getting back home I installed the axles part way and left the bearings out and used clear silicone around the whole bearing surface as the directions called for, I'm guessing the o-ring alone might not be enough so they call for silicone as well just in case.



Next using the t-bolts provided in the bag of bolts I installed the backing plates and tightened down the 9/16" nuts to the t-bolts also installed the lock washers as well. I used loctite blue removable lock-tite to prevent the nuts backing off.



Here is a picture from another angle




Next I bolted up the new rotors, pads, and reused the calipers.



Finally bolting on the torque arm mount with the 1 1/8" bolts onto the housing completes the assembly. Blue lock-tite was also used on these bolts since you don't want them coming loose.



For any other questions/comments/applause just ask. If the mods want to sticky this as well I'm sure this will help others out in the future. If there's a way to add the photos to this site rather than link off cardomain that would be a plus too.

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Looks real good

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

Good stuff Steve, I just put mine together tonight too. I'll add a couple things.

Clean out the inside of the housing with brake cleaner and then blow it out with compressed air.

I was told by Scott @ DLS to torque the 9/16" center section nuts to 45-50ft-lbs.

The PASSENGER (RIGHT) side axle is the LONGER axle, driver side being the shorter axle.

RTV the base of the studs where the nut/washer will press down to prevent any leakage out of the studs.

Also when installing the axle seals, I RTV'd all around the inside where they were going to get tapped in. Once I tapped the seal in, I used my finger to apply RTV around the edge of the seal.

I still need to get my bearings pressed on, I like the idea of CarQuest. Also, like you stated, RTV the outside of the bearing once you've installed it.

Torque the hell out of the torque arm mount bolts. As tight as you can go

revtime

iTrader: (1)

I have a 12 bolt I am in the process of putting backing plates on. Do you know if the 1/8 shim applies to that application as well?

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

looks good mang.except I noticed you dont have a drain plug installed.running the same setup on my 35th using lt1 rear calipers and rotors.have a currie with a strange center section on mine.

silverZ98

iTrader: (6)

whats the big hole in the axle for next ot the studs? mine dont have this

cowboysfan

looks nice. hole next to the studs is to get to the nuts on the plate...




fuerzaws6

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

I do have a drain plug, it's in the bottom of the housing in the center, flush mounted so the pics won't show it.


Also the hole in the axles is so you're able to tighten the backing plate nuts, you spin the axle around until you reach each of the 4 t-bolts to put the nut on. Without the hole in the axle you couldn't get a socket onto each nut to tighten it.

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

my axles didnt come with access holes

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

cool.now slap that bad boy together and on the car.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Nice install information! This will help with a lot of questions.
Would it be okay with you if I added this info to my website? Thanks. Bob

th3unwant3d1

iTrader: (1)

Was looking all over for a 9" write-up. Kudos! Should make it really easy :-D

CamaroZ28_LS1

iTrader: (5)

Necro Post I know, but Same here, no access hole for the nuts. anyone know what the extra spacer is for after the bearings get press on?

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

You didn't mention using copper washers under the nuts on the studs that hold the carrier. Are they no longer used?

Al

CamaroZ28_LS1

iTrader: (5)

There are washers and a lock washers still used on the front cover

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

Here's what i use... just barely enough room. Red loctite to make sure those bastards stay put since you can't put more than about 25 ftlbs on them. When/if you have to pull the axles just torch em and they break loose pretty easy.

The collar you press on after the bearing makes sure the bearing stays put. Not a bad resurrection on this thread though