help me figure out my 10 bolt problem
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 1,105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
help me figure out my 10 bolt problem
Here's the story. My car runs at about 420rwhp.
I am currently on my second 10 bolt.
The first one shot after about 500 miles of me hearing something wrong with it and noticing the oil on the ground. On this 2nd one, I haven't driven it REALLY hard or done hardly any burnouts. I've got on it a few times but I usually shift at 5000 rpms or less. I don't like doing that since I have a problem with my clutch hydraulics & having it hard to get in the next gear under rapid acceleration.
My problem:
So I bought a good 30k non-abused rear end and have put about 2000 miles on it. Just today I started noticing a soft, non-metallish, non-iron grinding sound from the back of my car and it sounds like it might be coming from the posi. The sound is almost like a tire going flat or a small airplane flying by. When accelerating, it really doesn't make the sound. But if I'm going faster than 35mph and let off on the gas, I hear the sound. One other thing to keep in note: for a couple of weeks I've noticed a sound coming from the wheels or the rear end only when I drive around curves. My car has 315s on the back and has wheel spacers. I haven't really noticed any oil on the ground under the back. Do you think this is a simple fix, such as a loose wheel spacer, or low on posi oil, perhaps I need my rear end re-aligned and get a adjustable panhard rod? My car is currently at stock height.
I would really want to get my car FI or a new forged block before the rearend first since I drive carefully. I just hope I don't need one until I would like to have one.
I am currently on my second 10 bolt.
The first one shot after about 500 miles of me hearing something wrong with it and noticing the oil on the ground. On this 2nd one, I haven't driven it REALLY hard or done hardly any burnouts. I've got on it a few times but I usually shift at 5000 rpms or less. I don't like doing that since I have a problem with my clutch hydraulics & having it hard to get in the next gear under rapid acceleration.
My problem:
So I bought a good 30k non-abused rear end and have put about 2000 miles on it. Just today I started noticing a soft, non-metallish, non-iron grinding sound from the back of my car and it sounds like it might be coming from the posi. The sound is almost like a tire going flat or a small airplane flying by. When accelerating, it really doesn't make the sound. But if I'm going faster than 35mph and let off on the gas, I hear the sound. One other thing to keep in note: for a couple of weeks I've noticed a sound coming from the wheels or the rear end only when I drive around curves. My car has 315s on the back and has wheel spacers. I haven't really noticed any oil on the ground under the back. Do you think this is a simple fix, such as a loose wheel spacer, or low on posi oil, perhaps I need my rear end re-aligned and get a adjustable panhard rod? My car is currently at stock height.
I would really want to get my car FI or a new forged block before the rearend first since I drive carefully. I just hope I don't need one until I would like to have one.
Last edited by candlelit; 03-23-2007 at 12:35 AM.
#5
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 1,105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by turbotko
It's the torsen diff making noise. Just took mine out and replaced it for a trutrac for exactly the same symptoms. Noise is completely gone.
#7
$180 gears
$350 diff
$20 solid pinion spacer
$30 ARP stud kit
$100 install kit
$20 good diff fluid
$0 labor
= $700
Maybe throw in another $100 for used girdle.
That will get you close to the maximum strength of the 10 bolt without spending crazy money on it. If your an A4 and you know how to setup gears correctly that should take you deep in the 12's with no problem. If your a 6 speed, forget it.
A 12bolt/9inch setup will cost you $3000 properly setup. You can build that 10 bolt alot of times with all new parts for $3000.
$350 diff
$20 solid pinion spacer
$30 ARP stud kit
$100 install kit
$20 good diff fluid
$0 labor
= $700
Maybe throw in another $100 for used girdle.
That will get you close to the maximum strength of the 10 bolt without spending crazy money on it. If your an A4 and you know how to setup gears correctly that should take you deep in the 12's with no problem. If your a 6 speed, forget it.
A 12bolt/9inch setup will cost you $3000 properly setup. You can build that 10 bolt alot of times with all new parts for $3000.