Strang 12 bolt question, may have to pull rear to get fixed.
06-01-2007, 12:49 AM
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Strang 12 bolt question, may have to pull rear to get fixed. So I want to run ARP studs all the way around for my slicks. Front went easy without problems. Then I Got to the back...... I didn't know the Strange had C clip eliminators so i pulled the cover off my strange 12 bolt and proceded to take out that damn bar that goes in the middle of everything (dunno what it's called) some piece fell out and I have NO idea what it is, it looks like some kind of washer with a hole the exact same size as that stupid bar.
ANYWAY, thats not even the worse part. So then I pull the axel the right way, to realize that you need to get the baring and reluctor ring off to change the goddamn studs..... so then we put the axle back in, and we accidenly TURNED one of the wheels without the metal stud in the rear!
So now everything is out of line and we can't get it back to where it's supposed to be.
Questions obviously being....wtf fell out of my rear..and... is there a way to line the diff gears back up so I can put the pin back and drive it to a shop to have the studs changed?
or am I screwed? I might just have to pull the rear and take it down to the shop and have it all fixed....
I HATE when I make things worse then when I start.... hasn't happened in so long though...
ANYWAY, thats not even the worse part. So then I pull the axel the right way, to realize that you need to get the baring and reluctor ring off to change the goddamn studs..... so then we put the axle back in, and we accidenly TURNED one of the wheels without the metal stud in the rear!
So now everything is out of line and we can't get it back to where it's supposed to be.
Questions obviously being....wtf fell out of my rear..and... is there a way to line the diff gears back up so I can put the pin back and drive it to a shop to have the studs changed?
or am I screwed? I might just have to pull the rear and take it down to the shop and have it all fixed....
I HATE when I make things worse then when I start.... hasn't happened in so long though...
06-01-2007, 04:36 AM
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this is what happens when you do not wait for my help and take matters into your own hands! you know better then to do any work without my help. give me a call and we will hook up this weekend, if not i know of people who can help. call me. tim
06-01-2007, 08:54 AM
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Its known as a carrier cross shaft... and the other part is a spider gear thrust washer.
I take it you are using an EATON ??
You can use the axles to turn the internals to 'line' everything back up... just as it was done to get it where its at. You will need to position the carrier so that the large window is facing the rear, so that the spider thrust surfaces are 12 and 6. Once the spiders gears are aligned, you can then insert the thrust washer back under the spider gear. Be sure to use some sticky grease to keep it in position. Re install the shaft and you should be in business.
Its not as hard as it looks... it just takes a little finesse'.
I take it you are using an EATON ??
You can use the axles to turn the internals to 'line' everything back up... just as it was done to get it where its at. You will need to position the carrier so that the large window is facing the rear, so that the spider thrust surfaces are 12 and 6. Once the spiders gears are aligned, you can then insert the thrust washer back under the spider gear. Be sure to use some sticky grease to keep it in position. Re install the shaft and you should be in business.
Its not as hard as it looks... it just takes a little finesse'.
06-01-2007, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by chicane
Its known as a carrier cross shaft... and the other part is a spider gear thrust washer.
I take it you are using an EATON ??
You can use the axles to turn the internals to 'line' everything back up... just as it was done to get it where its at. You will need to position the carrier so that the large window is facing the rear, so that the spider thrust surfaces are 12 and 6. Once the spiders gears are aligned, you can then insert the thrust washer back under the spider gear. Be sure to use some sticky grease to keep it in position. Re install the shaft and you should be in business.
Its not as hard as it looks... it just takes a little finesse'.
I take it you are using an EATON ??
You can use the axles to turn the internals to 'line' everything back up... just as it was done to get it where its at. You will need to position the carrier so that the large window is facing the rear, so that the spider thrust surfaces are 12 and 6. Once the spiders gears are aligned, you can then insert the thrust washer back under the spider gear. Be sure to use some sticky grease to keep it in position. Re install the shaft and you should be in business.
Its not as hard as it looks... it just takes a little finesse'.
How can I tell when they're all aligned if I cant actually see inside to know whats going on?
thanks for the help.
06-01-2007, 10:37 AM
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You didnt say if it was an EATON or not, but my guess is that it is.
One problem. The spring pack. You may have to remove it. If you didnt remove it, then the spider gears should still be in mesh (I can almost 100% guarantee that they are if you didnt remove the spring pack).
If the internals (spring pack or spider/side gears) did not come out of the housing... they (the gears) should still be meshed correctly. How to check... would be accomplished by turning both axles the same direction, so that the window is at 6 o'clock. You should be able to 'see' thru the cross shaft hole to verify alignment. If its good, rotate the window facing rear... grease up the thrust washer, install... and turn back to the 6 o'clock position. (If you were to rotate to the 12, the washer can out fall towards the small window and its a little harder to get it back out. If it down, it will just fall out into the housing).
Some other pointers. If you are dong this by yourself, you can use a prybar, or other means, to stop the drive shaft from rotating. This will help isolate the differential from turning when you rotate the internals by themselves.
If it gets hard to turn, you can also use a prybar/breaker bar/jack handle... to turn the axle by using two of the studs on the axle itself (or one and the hubcentric portion of the axle). It wont take much pressure so you wont flatten the threads on the studs... so no worry.
Re-installing the spring pack. This can get a little tricky. If you dont have (which its not produced, you have to make one yourself) a spring pack "tool"... it is, going to be a little tricky. Basically, its just something that will compress the assembeled spring pack giving you the ability to re-install it without it coming apart... when you go to put it back in. A simple "U" welded out of 1" x 1/4" plate (or I have even used a pair 'Vice grip" c-clamps) to compress it and then used a deadblow hammer to tap it in.
Just tap it in. Tap tap tap it in. Go back in the hole..... (Happy Gilmore)
Big thing is... to check to see if the spiders are still correctly meshed. Then grease up the thrust washers and install them. Re move the prybar from the driveshaft... and rotate. Install the cross shaft and bolt. Then RECHECK to make sure everything looks copesetic.
Any questions... come back and ask or wait for Tim to show up. Just make sure you have what beer he drinks in the fridge and that it is cold.
The other thrust washer was mis-aligned. It you force it in any respect, you run the risk of damaging the washer and it will no longer fit. It will have to be replaced. That is why some good sticky grease that will hold them into place is going to be your best friend.
One problem. The spring pack. You may have to remove it. If you didnt remove it, then the spider gears should still be in mesh (I can almost 100% guarantee that they are if you didnt remove the spring pack).
If the internals (spring pack or spider/side gears) did not come out of the housing... they (the gears) should still be meshed correctly. How to check... would be accomplished by turning both axles the same direction, so that the window is at 6 o'clock. You should be able to 'see' thru the cross shaft hole to verify alignment. If its good, rotate the window facing rear... grease up the thrust washer, install... and turn back to the 6 o'clock position. (If you were to rotate to the 12, the washer can out fall towards the small window and its a little harder to get it back out. If it down, it will just fall out into the housing).
Some other pointers. If you are dong this by yourself, you can use a prybar, or other means, to stop the drive shaft from rotating. This will help isolate the differential from turning when you rotate the internals by themselves.
If it gets hard to turn, you can also use a prybar/breaker bar/jack handle... to turn the axle by using two of the studs on the axle itself (or one and the hubcentric portion of the axle). It wont take much pressure so you wont flatten the threads on the studs... so no worry.
Re-installing the spring pack. This can get a little tricky. If you dont have (which its not produced, you have to make one yourself) a spring pack "tool"... it is, going to be a little tricky. Basically, its just something that will compress the assembeled spring pack giving you the ability to re-install it without it coming apart... when you go to put it back in. A simple "U" welded out of 1" x 1/4" plate (or I have even used a pair 'Vice grip" c-clamps) to compress it and then used a deadblow hammer to tap it in.
Just tap it in. Tap tap tap it in. Go back in the hole..... (Happy Gilmore)
Big thing is... to check to see if the spiders are still correctly meshed. Then grease up the thrust washers and install them. Re move the prybar from the driveshaft... and rotate. Install the cross shaft and bolt. Then RECHECK to make sure everything looks copesetic.
Any questions... come back and ask or wait for Tim to show up. Just make sure you have what beer he drinks in the fridge and that it is cold.
got it all the way to the last one... then it wouldnt go any further.
Last edited by chicane; 06-01-2007 at 11:36 PM.
06-01-2007, 05:07 PM
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I'll go mess with it some more today. I never took the spring pack out, just the carrier cross shaft then turned the tire causing all the gears to become mis aligned. I hope I dont have to take the spring pack out!
I already had the window up down and everywhere else I could to see if I could get the pin in with no luck. I'm confused as to why you would to only move the inside gears without moving the differential itself? I thought you needed to move the diff so the window was facing 6? Or should I rotate it to 6 then just move the insides to get it to line up?
just a little more explaining and I think I'll have it...
I already had the window up down and everywhere else I could to see if I could get the pin in with no luck. I'm confused as to why you would to only move the inside gears without moving the differential itself? I thought you needed to move the diff so the window was facing 6? Or should I rotate it to 6 then just move the insides to get it to line up?
just a little more explaining and I think I'll have it...
06-01-2007, 06:54 PM
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To move everything without disturbing the internals... turn the driveshaft. To move the internals alone... move the axle(s).
You want to just move the internals, to get the spiders aligned and test fit the cross shaft... and to wiggle the thrust washers in. Dont forget to grease the thrust washer(s). Next, turn the assembly without disturbing the internals... and install the cross shaft.
You cant really turn the internals without effecting the thrust washer moving... even with tons of grease. Just make sure that the shaft goes into and through both thrust washers, without forcing it into the carrier. Sometimes a little prying on the sidegear(s) or spiders will help wiggle the washers into place.
Hopefully this answers it. If not, maybe some pictures ??
You want to just move the internals, to get the spiders aligned and test fit the cross shaft... and to wiggle the thrust washers in. Dont forget to grease the thrust washer(s). Next, turn the assembly without disturbing the internals... and install the cross shaft.
You cant really turn the internals without effecting the thrust washer moving... even with tons of grease. Just make sure that the shaft goes into and through both thrust washers, without forcing it into the carrier. Sometimes a little prying on the sidegear(s) or spiders will help wiggle the washers into place.
Hopefully this answers it. If not, maybe some pictures ??
