who's got a UMI adj torque arm on a S60?
09-02-2007, 02:49 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
who's got a UMI adj torque arm on a S60? Car is a 99ss w/Hotchkiss springs, koni DAs and strano bar. I'm installed and I'm hitting the floor at the rear bracket and mount bolt w/o having driven yet. Anyone have this?
Are the second set of holes on the rear mounting plate that would allow you to move the arm closer to the rear and driveshaft accessible on the s60? seems like the top of the bracket would need grinding to clear the webbing on the top of the diff.
Thx
Are the second set of holes on the rear mounting plate that would allow you to move the arm closer to the rear and driveshaft accessible on the s60? seems like the top of the bracket would need grinding to clear the webbing on the top of the diff.
Thx
09-03-2007, 08:33 AM
#3
Hello,
Yes as Mike said this is very common. The problem with the S60 rear is it is so large that Strange has to move the torque arm mount foward and to the drivers side. This causes the torque arm to be shifted foward and to the drivers side cause it to hit the tunnel area. This will happen with any torque arm...
The lowering springs aren't helping any, they are allowing the body to sit closer to the tunnel area. Also another suggestion is a adjustable panhard bar to re-adjust the rear end center and maybe gain some more clearance. The second set of holes are designed for cases like this, I don't have much experience with the S60 since it is new. But grinding or cutting the bracket is common to get the second set to line up, this will then move the arm in and away from the tunnel area. Also a hammer and a block of wood will add some clearance as well.
Hope that helps,
Ryan
Yes as Mike said this is very common. The problem with the S60 rear is it is so large that Strange has to move the torque arm mount foward and to the drivers side. This causes the torque arm to be shifted foward and to the drivers side cause it to hit the tunnel area. This will happen with any torque arm...
The lowering springs aren't helping any, they are allowing the body to sit closer to the tunnel area. Also another suggestion is a adjustable panhard bar to re-adjust the rear end center and maybe gain some more clearance. The second set of holes are designed for cases like this, I don't have much experience with the S60 since it is new. But grinding or cutting the bracket is common to get the second set to line up, this will then move the arm in and away from the tunnel area. Also a hammer and a block of wood will add some clearance as well.
Hope that helps,
Ryan
09-03-2007, 10:28 AM
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Appreciate the responses..Ryan, do the alt bolt holes change the effectiveness of the arm? What is preferred? Any suggestions re: template to cut bracket vs. trial and error with rear in car? BTW I've got your DA p/h bar but rear is now centered and I'm hitting..
09-03-2007, 10:51 AM
#5
Glad to help.
I am not a fan of the S60 due to its size, it is crazy and I can't believe they would make something so large to fit underneath these cars.
I don't have enough experience with the S60 since it hasn't been around to long so I don't have any template nor do I know the exact location to cut the bracket. But cutting the bracket will not effect the torque arm, it will actually perform better since the torque arm will now sit parallel with the drive shaft. On the Moser 12 bolts we cut a straight line and cut the first holes off, on the Moser 9" it will usually slide right on to the second holes. You need to determine what is stopping the bracket from sliding into the second set of holes, then start trimming there. It may even require you to grind at the rear end some.
Hope that helps,
Ryan
I am not a fan of the S60 due to its size, it is crazy and I can't believe they would make something so large to fit underneath these cars.
I don't have enough experience with the S60 since it hasn't been around to long so I don't have any template nor do I know the exact location to cut the bracket. But cutting the bracket will not effect the torque arm, it will actually perform better since the torque arm will now sit parallel with the drive shaft. On the Moser 12 bolts we cut a straight line and cut the first holes off, on the Moser 9" it will usually slide right on to the second holes. You need to determine what is stopping the bracket from sliding into the second set of holes, then start trimming there. It may even require you to grind at the rear end some.
Hope that helps,
Ryan
09-03-2007, 02:19 PM
#6
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not complaining - just trying to get it to fit w/o pulling the BFH out first and/or pulling out or grinding on the rear. So the inner holes make for the more parallel install?
02-09-2008, 09:14 AM
#7
10 Second Club
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: coastal N.C.
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I reallize this thread is a little old but thought I could help someone else out should they run into this issue ...
I had to grind the first set of holes off my UMI adj. TA (it's a fit-and-trim as required kind of thing) .. she fits nice and snug now
It sets REAL close to the housing. I have ZERO tunnel clearance issues! As a matter of fact, I think I'm gonna' put a set of lowering springs on 
I had to grind the first set of holes off my UMI adj. TA (it's a fit-and-trim as required kind of thing) .. she fits nice and snug now
It sets REAL close to the housing. I have ZERO tunnel clearance issues! As a matter of fact, I think I'm gonna' put a set of lowering springs on 