8.8 in an F-body?
#2
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If you search around a bit on here there is lots of info on it. I went through the search about 3 months ago on the subject. The hardest part is making a torque arm mount that will withstand the abuse. Remember that the mustangs use a sort of 4 link arrangment
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Could you somehow us the upper supports on the rear and fab up some space to weld the support to the body? I thought about this also, loose the torque arm and maybe grind the paint/underbody coating off then weld on small square steel pieces and drill straight through to run a bolt and weld to body.
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Well you'd have to brace for it, but I was talking with a local Mustang shop. He stated someone makes an in the box setup that could be purchased for upper 300 dollar range, I junk yard 8.8 for a couple hundred, 31 spline axles, diff, bearings, seals and that should put you in 1000 dollar range for everything. You can loose the torque arm and adjust upper and lower controls. Sounds good to me!
#7
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Well you'd have to brace for it, but I was talking with a local Mustang shop. He stated someone makes an in the box setup that could be purchased for upper 300 dollar range, I junk yard 8.8 for a couple hundred, 31 spline axles, diff, bearings, seals and that should put you in 1000 dollar range for everything. You can loose the torque arm and adjust upper and lower controls. Sounds good to me!
by the time you figure in your own time(or labor) it would come out easier to buy a bolt in 12 bolt or 9" unit.
interesting, though.
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#8
The upper torque boxes on a Mustang are a stamped steel plate that is welded to the floorpan. As long as you get the dimensions right, it could be done in an F-Body relatively easy (for a fabricator). Being a Mustang owner myself, I know the ins and outs of the "Stock" upper control arm mounts on a Mustang. We always have to drill a hole (about 1/2 inch) through the floorpan in the center of each upper mount. Then we "sandwich" two 1/4" plates, one outside and one inside, and run a large bolt through them. Then seam weld everything on and around the mounts, and your good to go.
I don't see why this would be much of an issue, as long as you have ample room in front of the rear-end for the upper control arms to work properly. You would also have the ability to "change" the geometry of the uppers, much like a Wild Rides "S-Box" does for the Fox Body. That box has three different mounting holes, which changes the angle of the uppers, much like a standard 4-link.
I hope this helps somewhat.
I don't see why this would be much of an issue, as long as you have ample room in front of the rear-end for the upper control arms to work properly. You would also have the ability to "change" the geometry of the uppers, much like a Wild Rides "S-Box" does for the Fox Body. That box has three different mounting holes, which changes the angle of the uppers, much like a standard 4-link.
I hope this helps somewhat.
#9
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why go through all that trouble why not look into these bars that will allow you to instal whatever rear you choose too......
http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55
http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55
#10
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why go through all that trouble why not look into these bars that will allow you to instal whatever rear you choose too......
http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55
http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55
you know anyone running this setup?
id say there is a reason all the suspension guys stick with torque arm set ups.
could be wrong......
#13
The mustang 4-link setup would be okay for drag racing, but if you are a corner carver, the tq arm setup is better. Maximum Motorsports has some great info on their site about how the differential does not remain centered w/ the stock-style 4-link setup.... That's why most auto-x stangers switch to the panhard rod and tq arm setup and just dump the upper control arms altogether.
<--90 5.0 LX
<--90 5.0 LX