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My 9" install, the good, the bad, and the ugly

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Old 01-27-2008, 01:19 AM
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Default My 9" install, the good, the bad, and the ugly

First off it it was real, it was fun, but it was not real fun..
The set up is a moser 9" housing and a moser nodular center section.
The meat of the swap was not that bad, it was the details that got to be a pain in the ars..
The day started at 12:30.....
Removing the stock rear was no big deal. Took about 1 1/2 hours and that was also removing the backing plates for re-use.

Now for the swap...
I have a BMR trakpak torque arm that has two mounting holes and of course the first set I tried was wrong, but that was after I found out that the moser torque arm bracket does not fit the moser nodular center section with out a slight mod. The rear torque arm mounting bolt hits the webbing on the moser nodular center section. So, about a 3/8 to 1/2 inch section of the web needed to be ground away to allow clearance for the mounting bolt.
OK got past that... after about 30 to 45 minutes I finally wrestled the torque arm bolts in and got the nuts on them...
I then went to a friends shop to use his press to press the bearings on the axles. No real big deal, except his press was about 1 1/2 inch to short and required a lot a fiddling to get everything pressed on, but managed.
Then came the drive shaft, no real dilemma here. Although I thought I had a 1350 pinion yoke and found out I had a standard ford. So I had to go to the parts store and pick up the correct ujoint. I figured I was going to be SOL getting this joint on a Saturday night, but my luck had changed and found one at the first parts store I went to.

Ok back to my shop to finish up the install. The next obstacle was that my lower control arm lowering brackets would not fit the moser housing... no big deal, I just chunked them to the side and proceeded with the install.

Everything else went pretty much as planned.

Thoroughly inspected everything while on the lift for clearance and mad sure I tightened everything. So far so good.

Let the car down and off the lift, it is now 8:30PM.
Back out of the shop and immediately can tell I have a rub some where. But it is to dark and to late to investigate any further at this time. So I loaded the car up on the trailer and locked her down.

I feel like the rub is probably the torque arm hitting the tunnel/floor board.

Is this a common problem? Where else is a potential for rubbing?

Sorry for the long post, but felt this info may be helpful to others doing a swap...

Last edited by rickou812; 01-27-2008 at 01:30 AM.
Old 01-27-2008, 05:49 AM
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Yes, look for clearance around the torque arm. Moser just came out with their own torque arm that is designed to clear the underbody on these cars, which will certainly help. What we do is stick a pry bar up where the underbody is rubbing, and gently pry the sheetmetal away. It only takes a few minutes and is easy to do. Moser has also come out with an option to have lower control arm relocation brackets already welded on the housing, which is a $100.00 option. These brackets have three mounting holes in them to help you dial in the height if your lower control arms. Bob
Old 01-27-2008, 05:50 AM
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Yep, very common problem.
You need to remove the TA, move the rear towards the right side (adjustable PHB helps here) and learance the area with a BFH. You will clearly see where the rubbing has occured.

This even happened to me a bit with the Spohn TA with the old 10 bolt.
Old 01-27-2008, 09:40 AM
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Yep, I used and aircraft rivit gun with a flat rivit pounder and "pushed" up the sheet metal near the torque arm mount. Worked wonderfull and you can't tell that it was done.
Old 01-27-2008, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
Yes, look for clearance around the torque arm. Moser just came out with their own torque arm that is designed to clear the underbody on these cars, which will certainly help. What we do is stick a pry bar up where the underbody is rubbing, and gently pry the sheetmetal away. It only takes a few minutes and is easy to do. Moser has also come out with an option to have lower control arm relocation brackets already welded on the housing, which is a $100.00 option. These brackets have three mounting holes in them to help you dial in the height if your lower control arms. Bob

cool.... if you're gonna go thru all that, then why not just buy a $10,000 M9?
Old 01-28-2008, 01:23 AM
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Well I got under the car today and sure enough it was bumping a tad bit right at the rear torque arm mount and floor board. Clearance easily with a pry bar.

Now I have ran into a new problem. When I tried to tune for the 4.86 gear with my 26" tire... = no go. The 98 PCM will not allow for that high of a final drive ratio... oh well, I really won't need the speedo anyway...lol
Old 01-29-2008, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ssvert99
cool.... if you're gonna go thru all that, then why not just buy a $10,000 M9?
What are you talking about? Bob
Old 01-29-2008, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
What are you talking about? Bob
I believe the fact that there are additional costs for each item when he feels that some options should be standard as abolt in package.

Jeff
Old 01-29-2008, 10:59 AM
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Your Tq arm should have 2 sets of holes that slide over the moser bracket. The innermost holes have to be cut off so the tq arm can slide over parallel to the driveshaft and moves away from the tunnel.


David
Old 01-29-2008, 11:24 AM
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ssvert thats good stuff there. Wish you were making your rear when I bought my 12 bolt from moser. Sorry to the original poster for hijacking the thread
Old 01-29-2008, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by pddye
ssvert thats good stuff there. Wish you were making your rear when I bought my 12 bolt from moser. Sorry to the original poster for hijacking the thread


just join the crowd thats sold their Moser 12's to get one of my rearends...
Old 01-29-2008, 12:41 PM
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Well I've already sold one of my 12 bolts and I've got this other 12 bolt now in my T/A. If I was smart I would have sold them both at the same time with my umi torque arm and had one wicked 9" unit from ya. oh well there is always next year
Old 01-30-2008, 08:39 PM
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Bummer on the rub Richard. Hope all is good now. Can't wait to go for a ride and make a U-turn with the spool and 4.86 . Thanks for offering to help with my heads and cam swap on the 8th . I can't wait.
Old 01-30-2008, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
Bummer on the rub Richard. Hope all is good now. Can't wait to go for a ride and make a U-turn with the spool and 4.86 . Thanks for offering to help with my heads and cam swap on the 8th . I can't wait.
Hey post *****....I mean Mike.. lol

Yea U-turns are very interesting..
Looking forward to dismantling that turtle you call a car
Actually, looking forward to a ride with you in that six speed after the magic that will occur on the 8th
and of course the you will owe me
Old 01-31-2008, 10:54 AM
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will be provided. I think I will buy coolant, oil and booze at the same time. What a combo .
Hmmmmmm might need pizza also......
Back on track; will you get tires before the TH 350 swap? If you could hook it, that 4L60 3.06 first gear and a 4.86 in the rear would make for a serious launch.

Last edited by 1CAMWNDR; 01-31-2008 at 11:16 AM.
Old 01-31-2008, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ssvert99
cool.... if you're gonna go thru all that, then why not just buy a $10,000 M9?
For a solid rear end from a reliable company , along with quality and fitiment you ARE going to pay a bit more. ie Professional Products vs Edlebrock, the cheap one is not the way to go.
Old 02-01-2008, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ssvert99
cool.... if you're gonna go thru all that, then why not just buy a $10,000 M9?

It's not $10,000 for one, and you know that. We put one in my car and it ran a 1.29 60 ft on dot drag radials, and we don't have it dialed in yet.
Here is a link to my car at Sema.
http://www.powertvonline.com/video_detail.php?mId=2901
What kind of 60 ft times have you seen with your rear? Bob
Old 02-01-2008, 09:10 AM
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oh... just 1.35's in a 3800 pound convertible, with a/c, full interior, 4 wheel abs still functional, air bags, non mini-tub, 346 stock block and crank, 4l80e *footbraking*... yes footbrake, and single full exhaust out the rear of the car. and it hasn't been dialed in yet, either. oh... forgot to mention... still on pump gas.
Old 02-01-2008, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
It's not $10,000 for one, and you know that. We put one in my car and it ran a 1.29 60 ft on dot drag radials, and we don't have it dialed in yet.
Here is a link to my car at Sema.
http://www.powertvonline.com/video_detail.php?mId=2901
What kind of 60 ft times have you seen with your rear? Bob


yes, i know they aren't that much. it was just an opportunity to giggle...
Old 02-01-2008, 11:52 AM
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I just drove my car last night with my new Moser 9", and I am very happy with it! Everything went together well, and it isn't any noisier than my 10 bolt with 3.73's.
I can't speak for the other shops, but Bob at EPP was very cool to deal with over the phone, and he offered to price match anyone else for my suspension parts too!

I had a bad experience with another driveline sponsor last year, so I decided to give EPP a shot. So far, so good.



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