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Stuck pinion shaft: Fun with a sledge hammer

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Old 04-10-2008, 11:28 AM
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Default Stuck pinion shaft: Fun with a sledge hammer

OK, so I am a do-it-yourself if you want it done right type of guy. So, I bought a set of 4.10's (10 tooth pinion) for my stock 98 trans am. This car has 40K miles on it, and nothing is broken. So I get the axles out, and remove the diff, next thing is to "tap" the pinion out.
YEAH RIGHT.

The pinion shaft was rusted solid to the smaller of the two bearings, making it nearly impossible to remove. I was seriously ready to remove the entire rear end from the car. But I got lucky, and after heating the bearing with a bernzomatic torch for about 60 seconds, and POUNDING THE **** out of the pinion shaft with a sledge hammer, it finally came out.

All I can say is HOLY **** was that thing stuck. I completely destroyed the pinion nut and the end of the shaft beating on that thing. But I did win in the end.

To make things even more fun, I still had to beat the bearing races out of the housing.

I eventually won the battle and got my new races and my new pinion shaft installed, but GOD DAMN I have never fought a rear-end like that before!

So if your pinion shaft is stuck, stop hitting it like a girl and get after it!

Now I just hope the pinion depth is correct on the new shaft.....
Old 04-10-2008, 01:39 PM
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Yeah, been there, done that, regretted mushrooming the threads of the pinion shaft when I went to re-use it .
Old 04-10-2008, 03:00 PM
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You changed the pinion shaft and ring gear right? I assume you know this because they are a matched set.

Jeff
Old 04-10-2008, 03:31 PM
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Jeff,
Thanks for the tip. Yeah there are probably guys on this board that dont realize that the pinion and ring gear are a matched set!

The whole point of removing the stock pinion was to replace it with the new pinion from the 4.10 gearset. So yes, I also replaced the ring gear with the new one. I'm going to finish installing the diff tonight (hopefully). With any amount of luck I will get it setup right without taking it back apart 10 times.
Old 04-15-2008, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Johns98TA
Jeff,
Thanks for the tip. Yeah there are probably guys on this board that dont realize that the pinion and ring gear are a matched set!

The whole point of removing the stock pinion was to replace it with the new pinion from the 4.10 gearset. So yes, I also replaced the ring gear with the new one. I'm going to finish installing the diff tonight (hopefully). With any amount of luck I will get it setup right without taking it back apart 10 times.
i'm doing the same thing right now.. and i have a solid crush sleeve. setting up my pinion shims for the preload was a bitch everytime i cranked on the pinion nut and had to remove it i had to beat the **** out of the pinion to get it to come out. almost like it was stuck on the head bearing because the tail bearing was loose.

i'm doing my job on the ground which really sucks but do you know how to cut the old bearings so i can swap pinion shims easy without having to keep pressing the bearing off?
Old 04-15-2008, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SLP Firehawk
i'm doing the same thing right now.. and i have a solid crush sleeve. setting up my pinion shims for the preload was a bitch everytime i cranked on the pinion nut and had to remove it i had to beat the **** out of the pinion to get it to come out. almost like it was stuck on the head bearing because the tail bearing was loose.

i'm doing my job on the ground which really sucks but do you know how to cut the old bearings so i can swap pinion shims easy without having to keep pressing the bearing off?
I used my dremel tool with a stone bit and honed (opened up) the center of the front and rear pinion bearings. I just cut enough off to get the bearings to slide on/off. took about 5 minutes and was well worth it.
Old 04-16-2008, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ski23
I used my dremel tool with a stone bit and honed (opened up) the center of the front and rear pinion bearings. I just cut enough off to get the bearings to slide on/off. took about 5 minutes and was well worth it.
cool thanks.... sorry if i hijacked the thread
Old 01-04-2022, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Johns98TA
OK, so I am a do-it-yourself if you want it done right type of guy. So, I bought a set of 4.10's (10 tooth pinion) for my stock 98 trans am. This car has 40K miles on it, and nothing is broken. So I get the axles out, and remove the diff, next thing is to "tap" the pinion out.
YEAH RIGHT.

The pinion shaft was rusted solid to the smaller of the two bearings, making it nearly impossible to remove. I was seriously ready to remove the entire rear end from the car. But I got lucky, and after heating the bearing with a bernzomatic torch for about 60 seconds, and POUNDING THE **** out of the pinion shaft with a sledge hammer, it finally came out.

All I can say is HOLY **** was that thing stuck. I completely destroyed the pinion nut and the end of the shaft beating on that thing. But I did win in the end.

To make things even more fun, I still had to beat the bearing races out of the housing.

I eventually won the battle and got my new races and my new pinion shaft installed, but GOD DAMN I have never fought a rear-end like that before!

So if your pinion shaft is stuck, stop hitting it like a girl and get after it!

Now I just hope the pinion depth is correct on the new shaft.....
When beating the pinion did u ever miss & warped where the seal seats once the pinion is in ? I miss a couple times and really did a number on. I’m wondering if im going to need a whole new differential.

Old 01-05-2022, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by scrapon
When beating the pinion did u ever miss & warped where the seal seats once the pinion is in ? I miss a couple times and really did a number on. I’m wondering if im going to need a whole new differential.
14-y/o thread, but nonetheless, you should be able to repair the damaged seal seat, by sanding with a rotary sanding bit if the damage is small (and use some Permatex when the seal is installed just in case), or machining ($$). A better solution if budget allows, is ditch the weak 7.5" 10-bolt and swap in a S60 or 9" with your choice of ratios and never worry about it again.
Old 01-05-2022, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyBs98WS6Rag
14-y/o thread, but nonetheless, you should be able to repair the damaged seal seat, by sanding with a rotary sanding bit if the damage is small (and use some Permatex when the seal is installed just in case), or machining ($$). A better solution if budget allows, is ditch the weak 7.5" 10-bolt and swap in a S60 or 9" with your choice of ratios and never worry about it again.
Yeah it’s pretty beat up, I don’t think it has a fix to it other then a mechanic shop or what u had said ditch my 8.5 & get a 9.0. I might as well I just got a sbc 350 cammed & built for nitrous. Thank you man ! I appreciate your words of wised



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