SLP Firehawk

iTrader: (9)

i'm installed 4.10 in my 10 bolt and i am using a solid crush sleeve.. when i tighten the pinion nut and get a somewhat decent preload.... about 15 in pounds the pinion is very difficult to turn. it feels like it gets hung up. that leads me to ask if there is saposta be free play in the bearings because there is non at all. do i have it shimmed wrong?

also when i try to shim the rear i cannot get anywere near a good backlash. i'm either extremly tight with almost no backlash or extremley loose with like
.030 and then i am worried i am not putting enough load on the bearings if the shims arent tight enough.

should the pinion move smoothly or is it just because i have a solid crush sleeve? also would the preload cause it to hang up if its to tight? its really hard to get a accurate reading when i only have 3 inches of swing to get a reading out of it.

BJM

iTrader: (1)

You have got the pinion nut really torqued down and the drag torque on the pinion is 15 lb.in? That should be okay for used bearings. It is quite stiff to turn by hand. If you have not well lubed the bearings the pinion will stick at first and then turn more easily.

It actually sounds like you torqued the nut to 15 lb.in and the pinion is really tight. Doing that is totally wrong. Yes the bearing slack is fully taken up. Make sure you are measuring drag torque on the pinion with an appropriate torque wrench.

For backlash, your ability to adust it is based on your shims, if you have a good selection you can adjust it less than .001" at a time.

Are you installing a new gear?

SLP Firehawk

iTrader: (9)

yeah i'm installing new gears
i didn't torque down the pinion nut to 15 inch pounds i kept hitting it with the impact gun till i felt the free play disapear and the pinion start to have drag when i turned it
maybe its turning " jerky" because theres no lube on them
is it possible it needs more shims for the pinion colloar? i messured the old crush sleeve and used that amount of shims so it should be correcty
and yes i have a dial torqure wrench but its damn hard to get a good reading under there

BJM

iTrader: (1)

If you are using a solid spacer then you would only measure pinion drag with the pinion nut completely gronched down, no being careful with the gun stuff. It sounds like the spacer could be loose in there. Start with it too big so when the nut it tightened the pinion bearing clearances are barely taken up. Then you can step the spacer size down safely. You have to really tighten the nut down and then have the preload drag torque right to know the spacer is right.

You definitely do not want to gronch it down with the spacer being too short, you will dent the bearings.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

There are certain things you can measure fromt he old set up and use as a base for setting up the new stuff.... crush sleeve is not one that you want to try to match perfectly. You can use it to ball park yourself obviously...but dont take it as gospel.

You need to use a torque wrench, and crank the pinion nut down to the same torque value each time. Otherwise your preload is going to change. You want to be consistant.

Also...did you oil the bearings? A snagging feeling generally means dry bearings, or you didnt keep things clean enough (dirt in the races/bearings). And once you oil them up, they will spin easier...most times making the assembly turn easier.

Did you measure your pinion depth before dis-assembly? And if so...did you install the pinion at the same depth? Again...if so... have you adjusted it with shims since then?

Have you run a pattern yet to see how things look? That can tell you a lot. Even if my set up specs arent even close sometimes Ill run a pattern. Because it will tell you which way you need to go with things.

One last thing...on a crush sleeve rear, I generally set it up with nothing ni the way of crush sleeves or solid spacers. I dont torque the pinion nut down all the way. I just snug it with the gun until the pre-load feels close. Thats all thats needed for initial set up. Installing the crush sleeve/spacer and setting the final pinion pre-load is my final step. This is mostly for crush sleeves...because obviously you can keep re-using the spacer.

I installed a solid spacer in my 12bolt last summer. From Strange. It seemed to work great. I LOVE it over a crush sleeve...those things are a pain sometimes.

Just tryin to get some background info about your progress... Your questions are kinda hard to answer without a pattern to look at. Or without having the rear sitting infront of us. It would also probably be easier if you removed the torque arm and let the axle drop some so you can get more than 3" of movement on the pinion.

J.

SLP Firehawk

iTrader: (9)

first off i didn't know you keep tightening the nut down with a solid spacer i thought you tightened it till the preload was correct
there might be alot of stress on the bearings which is why its causeing them to hang up

and no they are not new but the have about 2500 miles on them i just changed them last season
the bearing are not oiled and i messured my old crush sleeve to ball park for the spacer

i will try and run a pattern today but i do not have any gear paint no one around here sells so i will have to try and use lithiom grease or something compareable

unfortunitally i did not messure anything before i took it part because there was a problem with the pinion being to loose so really there wasn't much to measure.

i appreciate the help from you guys i just hope that i can set this thing up without messing things up.... sometimes its easy to pay someone to do a bitch job such as **** but then again 300 dollars to have someone else do it is rough on the wallet.

BJM

iTrader: (1)

Just make sure you start with too much spacer and work smaller. Nothing will get damaged that way. It doesn't sound like you have overdone anything since you were measuring drag as you went.

SLP Firehawk

iTrader: (9)

ok i set up my pinion preload and it seems to be pretty damn close although when i installed the diff and the shims it really put more drag on the preload.

i had to really tap the diff and shims in is that good or bad?
also i did check the pattern i would put a pic up but i had to use brake lube because
no one around here sells gear paint, not even the dealership

however i still have alot of backlash about .025 or so which is causeing the pattern to be off by alot .... i have to play with the backlash before i really get serious with the pattern.

SLP Firehawk

iTrader: (9)

anyone know what i can use instead of gear paint the brake lube doesn't even show up a pattern at all

BJM

iTrader: (1)

Some people use lithium grease.

SLP Firehawk

iTrader: (9)

i got the rear together... backlash is at .005 and pattern is alittle on the toe side but it drives fine ... it wines around 60 and up but as long as i wont f anything up i dont care about the wine...

Jawsgear

iTrader: (2)

What brand of gears are you using and did you put in new bearings or use the old ones?

Jeff

SLP Firehawk

iTrader: (9)

i used the old bearings because they only have 2-3 thousand miles on them ( i just rebuilt the rear last year and my posi broke again thats why i am doing gears) and i went with a set of summit racing 4.10 gears, i am going to be pulling apart the rear again soon and this time i am replacing the pinion bearings and making sure that my pattern is correct this time.

Jawsgear

iTrader: (2)

I would set your pinion preload to about 7-10 inch pounds of rolling resistance and your backlash should be opened up to about .010". What you are at now is a bit tight. Let me know if you have any questions.

Jeff