Moser rear end ?s
#4
If you're not sure what is inside of the housing, go ahead and put additive in it. It is not going to hurt anything if it does have a Truetrac. Or, you could elect not to put the additive in it, and if you experience chattering when turning corners, then go ahead and put additive in at that time. Bob
#5
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I would get on eaton's website and look at pictures of both diffs. The carriers look different and it will be pretty easy to tell wheb you pull the cover off. It's too easy to check to waste money on additive you don't need, or possibly risking some clutch damage by not using the additive if you need it. Just my buck o' five.
#6
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so how much will the moser hold, and what brands should We be looking at. I am changing mine out in 2 days and need to buy the fluid. I thought it takes 3 bottles or almost three?
Does redline have the additive mixed in with it?
also my front and rear seal are leaking on my 12 bolt- hey it has lasted 34k so far w/o problems. is it a gasket I need? have the upgraded rear end cover if that helps.
Does redline have the additive mixed in with it?
also my front and rear seal are leaking on my 12 bolt- hey it has lasted 34k so far w/o problems. is it a gasket I need? have the upgraded rear end cover if that helps.
#7
so how much will the moser hold, and what brands should We be looking at. I am changing mine out in 2 days and need to buy the fluid. I thought it takes 3 bottles or almost three?
Does redline have the additive mixed in with it?
also my front and rear seal are leaking on my 12 bolt- hey it has lasted 34k so far w/o problems. is it a gasket I need? have the upgraded rear end cover if that helps.
Does redline have the additive mixed in with it?
also my front and rear seal are leaking on my 12 bolt- hey it has lasted 34k so far w/o problems. is it a gasket I need? have the upgraded rear end cover if that helps.
For the rear seal, just get a 12 bolt gasket from your local Auto parts store and I'd use some gasket sealer on it.
The front pinion seal should get a new crush sleeve when replacing it. If you don't replace the crush sleeve you risk damage to the pinion bearings. Many people get by without replacing the crush sleeve, but it is up to you. Here is a great article from Hot Rod Magazine on the procedure, they talk about the crush sleeve approx 1/2 down. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/d...ide/index.html Bob
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#8
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Hi Mike, you will need three bottles of 80/90 weight gear lube - non synthetic! We usually go with the Napa brand. I think your rear has an Eaton posi in it, so get posi additive (friction modifier) for it, use two of them.
For the rear seal, just get a 12 bolt gasket from your local Auto parts store and I'd use some gasket sealer on it.
The front pinion seal should get a new crush sleeve when replacing it. If you don't replace the crush sleeve you risk damage to the pinion bearings. Many people get by without replacing the crush sleeve, but it is up to you. Here is a great article from Hot Rod Magazine on the procedure, they talk about the crush sleeve approx 1/2 down. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/d...ide/index.html Bob
For the rear seal, just get a 12 bolt gasket from your local Auto parts store and I'd use some gasket sealer on it.
The front pinion seal should get a new crush sleeve when replacing it. If you don't replace the crush sleeve you risk damage to the pinion bearings. Many people get by without replacing the crush sleeve, but it is up to you. Here is a great article from Hot Rod Magazine on the procedure, they talk about the crush sleeve approx 1/2 down. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/d...ide/index.html Bob
Trying to get things in order- going th-400 and a lot more juice, and want everything else in top notch shape.
Thanks again
#13
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1263
Installation instructions warn against using synthetic oil, and the instructions show how much gear lube to use. Thanks. Bob
Installation instructions warn against using synthetic oil, and the instructions show how much gear lube to use. Thanks. Bob
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Now that I have 500 miles breaking in my Moser 12-bolt I'm ready to change the fluid. Moser recommends NON-synthetic 80/90 gear oil.
I'm not sure if the brand really matters, but I did some research and I found this article containing several gear oil test results. In particular it covers 3 different brands of 80W90 NON-synthetic gear oil:
Castrol Hypoy C 80W-90
Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90
Valvoline High Performance 80W-90
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf
I went with the Castrol as it was the only one I could find up here in Canada and it was at Walmart. It also did the best overall of the 3 in the tests.
I'm not sure if the brand really matters, but I did some research and I found this article containing several gear oil test results. In particular it covers 3 different brands of 80W90 NON-synthetic gear oil:
Castrol Hypoy C 80W-90
Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90
Valvoline High Performance 80W-90
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf
I went with the Castrol as it was the only one I could find up here in Canada and it was at Walmart. It also did the best overall of the 3 in the tests.