mcalus

iTrader: (14)

Ok so basically I want to get a 9" and I was talking to one of my dads buddies. I told him that they are about 2,600 bucks for the setup I need. He insists that he can get me one for about 2-300 bucks from a junk yard, well I think he means just a Ford 9" what would I need to do to get one to work for my 99 Z28?

Thanks guys!

nd4spd22

iTrader: (6)

you would need to use your 10 bolt as a template so you could see where you needed to weld on the brackets to mount it to your car. you also would need to check the length of it. It might be stock size or it may be larger/smaller. Dont know that much about them. I ordered mine b/c it went right in no guessing involved. a lot easier. but more $

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Unless you've got some fabricating equipment/skills, trying to make a junkyard 9" work in a torque arm f-body is a rough road to travel down. You've got to get the length right, weld on spring perches, lower control arm brackets and a torque arm mount.

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

I ordered a moser 9" axle/houseing package from EPP for a grand shipped, midwest chassis has them for about the same price, this will no doubt be your best bet, then just find a complete posi 3rd. member on e-bay or here for around 4-500.00, you can put a Nodular together for around 800.00 assembled with a spool/richmond gears. IMO, Unless your a good welder or know someone that will do it on the cheap (set up the houseing to fit the F body), you'll be much better off doing the moser axle/houseing package.

mcalus

iTrader: (14)

How much did yours cost when you where done and installed? What did you use from you stock 10 bolt?

Thanks for the responses guys!

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

I haven't gotten it yet (i'm just 200.00 shy), i know it comes with studs, i'm thinking it comes with the plates needed for the calipers too, maybe even the axle bearings, so i'm sure i won't need anything from my 10 bolt, just yank it out, i'm also investing in a HD driveshaft for added insurance, because i mainly want to launch it hard with stickys, this is what i found on e-bag for 355.00, i opt for the 3.50 gears so i can run 100 shot every now & then. my goal is 12.3-12.5 @ 110+ on the 100 shot with just bolt-ons, 158XXX mile LT1 & MTs street radials, so this should hold up just fine for me. heres the link to the 3rd. member. i'm hopeing once its all said & done, i shouldn't be out more then 1800.00, thats with a 310.00 driveshaft.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...251724115&rd=1

Jawsgear

iTrader: (2)

If you have and trust a used 9" diff from a junk yard I would think twice. By the time you buy a Housing & Axle Package that will bolt in for about $1K or less depending on your setup, you are going to spend 2-300 bucks for a used third, 85 bucks for bearings, $170 for good ring and pinion, and $160 or so to build the thrid member, $100 for new posi clutches, is it really worth trying to save a couple bucks that is gonna restrict your hp to what your current diff is capable of. In ohter words, a stock 9" ford is NO STRONGER that your stock 10 bolt. If you are going to upgrade, do it right the first time. Just my thoughts, hope it helps.

Jeff

mcalus

iTrader: (14)

I talked to my dads friend last night and told him that it wouldn't work, he asked why, I told him that I would need to do a bunch of welding and fabrication to it just to get it to work, he said he could get me the same rear end I have but just brand new, I told him that the axles and the ring an pinion are really weak on them brand new or not, the stock 10 bolts the cars come with are horrible. He said he could still hook me up so who knows what he is going to come up with.

I will keep you posted

thanks!