slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

painting a new 12-bolt (which is still in the mail), just a few questions:

#1 - any areas i want to make sure i dont get paint on besides the axle flanges and the face of where the cover mounts (and insides obviously).

#2 - how much paint in needed to do the job? i still havent decided between por-15 or rattle cans. por-15 seems generally more durable, but i think i'd feel less guilty scratching up a rattle can finish since its probably easier to touch up.

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

no one knows how much paint it takes?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

We normally paint the rears with Rustoleum after wiping them down with paint thinner. POR15 also works quite well, brush it on and let the rear sit out in the sun and it will flow out to hide the brush strokes. Once cured it becomes an extremely durable finish. Bob

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

do you need primer as well if you are using rattle cans?

and how much por 15? i dont want to order a huge can of it if i only need a pint.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

No, you don't need primer. I'm not sure but a pint of por15 would seem too small to me. Bob

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Ide get a quart of POR-15... If you have some left over, seal it up real good. You WILL find other places to use it. I love the stuff, and while my rear is out this time around, Im going to coat it. I paint areas like my battery trays (thirdgen) and radiator support. Areas that are easily rusted. Im also coating my entire floor inside, as well as my SFC welds and any bare spots undernieth.

I painted my SFCs on the last car with it, as well as the other areas, and 3 years later it still looks fantastic. No rust, hard as heck to get off, and as stated, will smooth out to ALMOST look like powder coat.

Gets my vote...

J.

socmguy

iTrader: (18)

another vote for POR 15. That **** is like magic, you can even paint over rust w/ it. Just make sure you wear some latex gloves because if you get it on your hands it will be there until the skin sloughs off.

CTSmechanic

iTrader: (2)

I have used a good self etching primer and a few coats of a quality gloss black paint... I would also make sure the housing is clean of any debris in the center or axle tubes the last Moser I bought was full of crap....

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

2 coats rustolium, didn't even use a whole can. Tape of the U-joint and breather and put a couple plastic bags on the axle flanges. Each coat takes like 5 mins. I should have wiped it down better 1st though, but it's easy to touch up after installed too.

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

i acutally picked up some cans of rustoleum high temp paint. its actually flat black. rear end is one of those things that i didnt really want to stand out too much... i'm really just painting it to prevent it from getting rusty.

it should be in today actually... lets hope UPS actually put it infront of the garage like i asked instead of the front porch... cuz that aint going to be fun to move that thing around by myself.

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

here's how it looks in flat black. sorry for the camera phone pics, as my real camera is busted

A_W_O_L

iTrader: (2)

I went with POR-15 engine paint (wanted a different color besides black/silver) and the base coat was awesome...the top coat.....took FOR ******* EVER to dry...7+ weeks to harden .....on top of that I have to put another coat or 2 on it to finish it out....

I wont make that mistake again...... It's a great product......all I'm saying is if you are thinking about using it.....call and talk to POR-15 because their instructions suck ***....and what I COULD dig up on their website didnt tell the full story either...It's best to call them and talk to them about it. I LOVE thier product.....HATE thier instructions.

(My first time with thier top coat)