Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

And damn do I just feel so anxious to drive it. /sarcasm

So I'm going to buy a 9 inch next month. I looked on EPP's website and they have a good price, but I have no idea what to do as far as options.

There's the M9 and the 9 inch, what's the difference? Limited slip? I don't think my car has it. ABS, do I really need, and traction control doesn't even work.

I don't even know where to start, can someone help me out?

nddragon01

Just bought mine from them, same issue as you with the rear going toast on me. I ended up getting the Moser 9" with 35 spline axles and locker upgrade, LCA relocation brackets, the 3.5" driveshaft they offer custom cut to fit with the 9" rear, 4-channel for ABS and TCS retention (mine works fine and it's my daily driver), standard wheel studs, 3.70 gears, stock width rear, and the free drain plug option. With a 9" and 35 spline axles there was no reason for a backbrace and I don't use BMR's sway bar so I had no reason for the brackets for it. I didn't have them powdercoat it, but the shop installing it spray painted it black for me no charge (I know the shop manager).

Hope this helps you out. Call Bob at EPP and he'll give you all the help you need. A great guy to deal with.

Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

Did you go with the actual "Moser 9 Inch" or the "M9" because theres a good price difference there and I was really curious as to what it was for.

02NBMWS6

iTrader: (22)

The M9 is a fabricated housing = lighter and stronger. Just get yourself a regular 9in, with whatever you prefer for the differential. I myself went with a trutrac and 31 spline axles, its held up to 1.4 60s and 600hp. It is more driveable then a locker.

do yourself a favor and get 4.11s or 4.30s if you are a M6, or 3.73s if you are an auto.

Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

Don't higher gears **** up gas mileage?

02NBMWS6

iTrader: (22)

no. youre city mileage will improve, and 6th gear with 4.11s @ 80mph is around 2200, perfect.

the only way you will lose mileage is if you continuously have it at high rpms. Just having more gear ratio does not mean you have to lose mileage.

if you did 4.56s and cruised the freeway at 3k+, of course youd lose mileage then.

trust me, youre making a huge mistake if you go anything lower then 4.11s

nddragon01

Higher gearing, no matter how big or small, is going to affect gas mileage on the highway, even if it's the smallest amount. You may not notice it, or accept it as within error margins for you, but it is going to decrease mileage from 3.42's to 3.73's to 4.11's, right on up. Using your example of 80mph in sixth at 2200 rpm, you're using more fuel since normal 3.42 gearing you'd be running 1500-1700rpm in sixth, 2000rpm comes at 90mph, still below 2200rpm. True, city probably won't change since when rpm's get too high, you just shift into the next gear. Example - instead of driving down Main Street in third, you'll be in fouth gear, so the rpm's are still low, but you'll have to do more shifting, no big deal.

Another thing to consider is how much track time you do, and whether it is your daily driver or not. 4.11's are weaker than 3.73's (notice I said WEAKER, not WEAK) and so are more susceptible to breaking. I've known quite a few peeps who have broken their 4.11 gearing in 12-bolts or 9-inches from hard launch after hard launch at the track. And most people don't want to pay more at the pump, so people like me (street/strip cars) are settling on 3.73's (or 3.70's, if you go with the 9" instead of the 12-bolt).

You asked if I had the Moser 9" or the M9 (which I think is their name for the Fab-9), I went with the Moser 9". I'm not serious enough a racer to worry about saving every single pound and the car isn't going to be powerful enough to worry about destroying the 9" to need an M9. And, like you said, it's more pricey, and I thought 3 G's was enough to drop on the parts...

Something else to think about...since you've got the whole rear apart, might want to spend a little extra on the parts and have stainless steel brake lines done, depending on how old they are. Since they gotta take them off anyway, might as well save on the installation cost and have them thrown on at the same time (they might make you pay to do the fronts, but at least you'll save on the rears).

Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

The M9 is actually cheaper than the 9" on EPP's site.

What do stainless steel brake lines do? I won't be paying anyone for the install, I'll have a friend who's a mechanic help me install it myself.

I'll probably go 3.70 (or whatever it is) as it's a DD.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

The M9 price on my website is the price for just the housing and axles, then in the options you select which center section you want.

oem brake lines rust as do most standard aftermarket brakes lines do, which is why stainless lines were mentioned in the post above. Are they necessary? No. Are they a good idea? Yes. Bob

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

you should also inquire with Erik at Midwest Chassis and performance for your needs,,,his customer service is above and beyond anyone else i have dealt with... (he is ssvert99 on here)

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

your 10 bolt was doomed from the day it left the factory...i went with a moser 12 bolt 33 spline axles 373 gears c clip eliminators, arp axle studs true trac diff and a girdle...if i blow this up i dont know wtf i am going to do...

nddragon01

You'll then switch to the stronger 9" with 35 or 40 spline axles, of course.

02NBMWS6

iTrader: (22)

3.70s are going to make your car a ******* dog. Do you really need to cruise at 80+mph?? 1900 = 72 mph with 4.11s by my calculator, seems like a perfect crusing speed to me, and then if you want to pass or whatnot, you wont be lugging the hell out of your car.

I think that is one of the most simple/stupid mistakes people can make is choosing 3.70s over 4.11s bc its a "daily driver" This is coming from someone who has had both, and had to pay to swap them. Your choice though. I think gears are just about the best mod ive ever done, and i'd never go back, and my car is a daily as well.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

same here,,i had 3:73's, liked em until i got my 4:11's,,,,i will never go back to 3:73's. Grocery getter here,,fastest milk and bread go getter on my street.

ajrothm

I went to 3.70s in my 9" because I was hitting the limiter in 4th on the spray 200' before the traps at 124mph with 4.11s. Hope my car isn't gonna be a "dog"..... No room for tires taller then 26" either.... I will know in the next month or two how much the 3.70s will slow it down. I only gained 1 tenth going from the stock 3.42s to 4.11s in the first place.....

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

You will be fine on a Moser 9". I beat the snot out of my Moser 12 bolt and an M6 and it was good when I sold it.

LS1BLKSS

iTrader: (36)

how do you ship 9" 's i don't think they are UPS capable are they?

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

It comes in 4 different boxes, You get the housing in one box, center section, and axles in other boxes. And ups delivered mine.

nddragon01

+1 to UPS X 4

Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

Couple extra questions on options...

What's a backbrace?
Should I get different than stock studs?
Should I get roll bar brackets?
Does it look like *** unpowercoated?
Is my stock driveshaft good for bolt ons? (Or up to 600 HP?)
What are control arm brackets?
What are splines?
Is stock length fine?

As you can probably tell, I don't know a lot about axles.

Also, what's truetrac/locker and is ABS really that important?