Looks like I need a catch can. Which one to buy?
09-28-2009, 03:25 PM
#1
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Looks like I need a catch can. Which one to buy? It looks like I need a catch can now. Who makes a nice one that works well? I know the ebay ones are not that great. Do I have to remove my pcv from the car to hook up the catch can?
09-29-2009, 02:56 AM
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revxtreme(sp?) is a sponsor I got mine from. Its fab'd alum and looks good. There is also a nice cnc one that is made for vettes, but costs more. Idk who makes that, but google does.
09-30-2009, 01:41 AM
#5
seems like the general consensus is that the saikou michi catch cans are the best.
http://www.saikoumichi.com/
catch cans are pretty universal, but they do offer LS1 specific setup.
personally, i just went with a husky air filter and did the make-it-yourself setup for less than $30
http://www.saikoumichi.com/
catch cans are pretty universal, but they do offer LS1 specific setup.
personally, i just went with a husky air filter and did the make-it-yourself setup for less than $30
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09-30-2009, 02:42 PM
#10
something to consider is that the products actually marketed as catch cans don't have warning labels on them advising to "avoid synthetic oils, chemicals, solvents, paints, and fumes which may cause bowl failure." they also have a higher heat tolerance instead of the 125F max temp on the home depot setup. myself and others haven't had any problems, though. they seem to do the job. some people speculate that the 125F max temp is considered at 90psi.
the basic saikou michi catch can goes for $75 + shipping, but the internal design looks exactly like a husky air filter.
the basic saikou michi catch can goes for $75 + shipping, but the internal design looks exactly like a husky air filter.
09-30-2009, 02:43 PM
#11
The home depot small plastic moisture trap for air compressors will only trap a small amount and the majority will still enter the intake. To be truely effective you need a heat transfering metal construction, an internal dispersal & baffel system, and the most capacity possible to allow the vapors to cool & condense the oil to droplets. The baffeling is to prevent the droplets from being pulled back out.
I suggest these thread for all you could ever want to know on the subject:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...outing-ok.html
09-30-2009, 04:06 PM
#12
seems like the general consensus is that the saikou michi catch cans are the best.
http://www.saikoumichi.com/
catch cans are pretty universal, but they do offer LS1 specific setup.
personally, i just went with a husky air filter and did the make-it-yourself setup for less than $30
http://www.saikoumichi.com/
catch cans are pretty universal, but they do offer LS1 specific setup.
personally, i just went with a husky air filter and did the make-it-yourself setup for less than $30
I am happy with my dual can from saikoumichi
09-30-2009, 09:38 PM
#14
They do not all work the same as the internal design differs on so many. Think about it. If the inlet, and outlet, are1-2-3" from each other, the vapors drawn through do not have time to make complete contact with the external surface area to cool & condense, so all you are catching is the bigger particles and droplets already accumulating in the lines running to it. The rest, (fine mist & flashed off vapors & suspension) travels right on through and into the intake manifold (this is easy to document, just take a 3/8" clear fuel filter with the white media inside and put it inline just after the outlet on the can, run it for say 100-200 miles, and see if the media is saturated with oil or not. This is a good way to see just how effective each is (make sure it is the very same car driven the very same way during the tests). The smaller a can is, and the shorter the distance from the inlet to the outlet, the less effective it will be. Also, the internal design. Both the Saikou Michi & the RevX cans have a perforated disperssion tube that runs down the center from the inlet. This disperses the vapors/mists so they make contact with as much outer surface area as possible condensing nearly all the oil to droplets where they fall and collect at the bottom to be drained later through a bottom screw drain. The RevX adds an internal baffel disc between the outlet & the point the perforations begin to deflect the exiting vapors to outer surface area one last time & then has an integrated PCV/check valve in the outlet to regulate the amount of vacuum pulled & prevent any reversion or back-flow. The others shown & mentioned are real quality pieces and will trap a good amount as well, with the Mike Norris being the best largest (for cooling & condensing the vapors) IMHO out of the anodized billet ones as some of the others have just to short of a distance to the outlets from the inlet. The least of all as far as effectivness is the air compressore filter as it is plastic (does not conduct heat/cold very well), very small in capacity, and the inlet is only an inch or so from the outlet.
Remember. Even a beer can with 2 fittings poked into it will collect some oil, so this is an issue that affects most modern engines no matter what breed.
Last edited by TLewis4095; 09-30-2009 at 09:45 PM.
10-01-2009, 05:58 PM
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The stock LS1 PCV system has a tendency to return too much oil into the intake. If you are noticing a decent amount of oil lost before a change, or you find a decent amount of oil in your intake. It was fixed with newer ls6 style pcv, although I believe LS7s also have a different pcv problem sometimes.
So stock or modded, just depends if you have that issue.
So stock or modded, just depends if you have that issue.
