Okay so I got my car dyno'ed today and I'm kind of dissapointed to say the least.
My mods are Pacesetter LT's, ORY, TSP Rumbler CB, SLP Lid with K&N which was pretty dirty, 3400 stall, and 3.42s. Untuned. It was also knock retarding according to his EFI live the stock computer was pulling about 3 degrees out.
It was on a mustang dyno converter locked my best numbers were 303HP 303TQ.
I was pretty dissapointed because my 00 WS6 M6 dynoed 312/324 stock, but that was on a dyno jet.
so the guy showed my a graph on the computer from a 04 GTO bone stock it dynoed 270/270 so it made me feel a little better.
The automatic with the 3200 stall will steal a lot of power. Most of the high stall auto guys don't worry about dyno numbers for this reason, they just go to the track and see what it will do. Thats more accurate as to its actual performance.
Clean your air filter and find out why you were getting knock retard. Even 3 degrees of timing can really kill your numbers.
Also, how do you have 3.42's in an auto car?? You swap them in??
Yes I swapped the 3.42s in and as for the air filter a bunch of us just went to watch my buddy get his car dyno'ed so I wasn't planning on doing it when we got there more people wanted to do it so they talked me into it because they would get a discount.
Also tried to spray it but he had his EFI live hooked to it and it hit 7 degrees of KR so we aborted that run.
They are a little bit low, but not that low. Are you throwing any codes that might help you to figure out why it's pulling timing? If your filter is pretty dirty, I would put money down that your MAF is dirty. You could probably pick up a few HP by doing a tune up if you haven't in a while.. Regardless, dyno numbers don't matter.
I have damn close to the same mods as you minus the catback exhaust and I put in a 3500 stall converter and my numbers were 317hp and 329 ft/lbs.. Dyno numbers for an auto car are always disappointing for the most part. M6's have the high numbers so just know that the number you have is going to the ground and be happy about it. My dad still tells me that my car is stupid fast for so close to stock. I believe he is right about our cars.
__________________ 2002 Sunset Orange Metallic Z28 A4, Performabuilt Lvl 3 Transmission/3600 Stall, Trans. Cooler, TSP RUMBLER (DUMPED), KYB AGX'S/Full Suspension/Strano Springs, Sunoco Hood/SS Spoiler/Shaved molding/Antenna/Front Bumper/Fresh Paint (10 coats of Clear)/C6 Z06 Deep Dish 18x8.5/18x10.5 (295/35/18 Rear), Nitto NT05's/ 558RWHP/527RWTQ 402 Stroker H/C/I PRC 227's/TSP 402 Cam/F.A.S.T 102/102 TB, Tuned By Ryan at R.P.M www.fquick.com/usafcrewchief01 "PHK NY/SOUTH KOREA/JAPAN"
The knock sensor on 98's are known to be finicky. It is why I replaced mine along with the harnesses when my heads went on. Not seeing the car this is just a guess but I wanted to throw it out there.....
That's what I thought well I put 91 octane from 76 in it.
An engine life spent living on CA-grade 91 octane under unknown driving conditions from previous owners means that you might have a lot of carbon build up in the combustion chambers and/or fouled injector tips.
I'd spend some time on a major tune-up before digging any deeper. Seafoam via a vacuum line for the top end cleaning, Red Line and/or Seafoam treatment in the fuel (for the injectors & top end), new fuel filter, new plugs, clean/replace air filter, and do a good cleaning on the MAF. Do all that, and you should be rid of any actual detonation.
__________________ 1998 Camaro Z28 | 1971 Nova SS-350
Previous LSx Vehicles:
2002 Camaro Z28 | 2000 Trans Am WS6 | 1999 Camaro Z28