01'LSwon

iTrader: (2)

Was wondering what brand of subframe connectors was working the best for every one. Weld-in style or bolt-in? Anybody with pics? All feedback is appreciated, thanks.

HexT

I've always heard weld in is the way to go.

I plan on picking up a set of UMI 3 point weld ins.

01'LSwon

iTrader: (2)

I did like the way those UMI's looked. I am assuming .035 wire 150 miller welder would run fine. The heavy mig 1/16 would be a little hot and 6011 rod is always questionable when i run it anyway.

HexT

I've also been eyeing the full lengths. Any input on boxed vs tubular. The price difference is little.

01'LSwon

iTrader: (2)

I am sure either would work well. I am a small heads/cam stall car now so its not like i am wheelstanding or anything crazy.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I got the UMI 3 pt bolt ins. I got the whole package pretty much with adjustable torque arm, & rear control arms. I could weld them in but I never did. Heres a few pics.

96RamAirTA

iTrader: (6)

i got boxed BMR i never noticed a differance after i them welded in

omcar

iTrader: (10)

Welded my Spohn SFCs in..no problem.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

SLP bolt-ins here. I like these better than the weld-ins that I've had on previous cars.

99 z

I'm sure the 3 points make a difference at the track, but does it really matter (2 point vs 3 point) on just a street drivin car?

Striker

iTrader: (1)

The 3 pointer's?

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

i have a pair of spectacle solutions subframes if youre interested.

Lotus289

iTrader: (1)

I put UMI 3pt bolt-ins in my car and love them. big difference, i can really tell how much the chassis has stiffened up.

and if you're interested, a friend of mine is selling a set of UMI 3pt bolt ins. They were on his old Firebird for 2 months and he removed them when he sold the car. They're in MINT condition. The only marks on them are from the washers when installed. All hardware will be included. $200 + shipping. If you are interested let me know and I'll contact him.

Pic!

Charlay

iTrader: (8)

I have BMR boxed sub frames and there great. I bolted mine in also. The car felt great afterwards.

AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

My brother and I have the UMI tubular bolt ins and they are working great. I had plans to weld them in eventually, but now I could care less.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Really I don't see how much difference they could make considering weld-on vs bolt-on. Either way it's going to stiffen up the chassis, one is just permanent. If you don't drive the car hard, SFC's won't really do **** for you, so in that sense a 3pt SFC would help a lot if you drive corners a lot on the street vs 2pt, I imagine.

Striker

iTrader: (1)

I have a nearly BONE STOCK car (check sig below) It's 99.99% of useage is on the street. Do I hammer it every now and then on the street, yes. I took the car to the track ONCE. Never did a crazy launch or anything of that nature...a few weeks later after a few more cruises and the occasional "spirited drive" that I wouldn't even remotely consider beating on the car, I notice I had torque dimples developing on my quarter panel.

I know that this wasn't done by anyone or anything else for that matter because I detail the car on a daily basis and it never gets left alone in a parking lot and things like that. So would SFC's have helped me in this instance? I'd definately say yes. Especially as the mileage increases and things start to get looser and looser.

sundaydriver

I have the SLP bolt on's that I put on the first 400 miles of the car being driven. All I know is that I don't have any rattles or other sounds that I always people complaing about on these cars.

FiredUpZ28

I wouldn't waste the cash on 3 points but thats me. 2 points are plenty. If you need more structural support than a 2 pt you're probably at the point where you need a cage. But I think EVERY F body should have subframe connectors.

Mac 2002 SS

iTrader: (6)

tubular bmr weld-on subframes. they have been on my ss since 02 and they are tucked away under my car really good.