...so is my fuel pump about to shit the bed?
02-29-2012, 04:57 PM
#1
...so is my fuel pump about to **** the bed? Cold starts, It won't start on the first turn over.
Got to prime it once, turn the key back, then prime and start it again.
If it's warmed up, it will start on the first attempt.
Sounds like a fuel pump issue.
Am I right?
-Matt
Got to prime it once, turn the key back, then prime and start it again.
If it's warmed up, it will start on the first attempt.
Sounds like a fuel pump issue.
Am I right?
-Matt
02-29-2012, 05:07 PM
#2
Sounds most likely to be a pump but I would also check and make sure the fuel filter isn't all clogged up also.
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
02-29-2012, 05:16 PM
#3
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An injector leaking down into the manifold will also bleed the line and
make starting difficult. A cheapo fuel pressure gauge will at least say
if it's a leakdown problem.
But you can also get cold starting problems from plain overenrichment,
which is a consequence of some mods (needing cranking VE table work
along with the main, and maybe some pulling back of cold EQ table
values). If the line stays pressurized and starting still sucks that says
it's a tune issue.
You could pull the whole injector rack and put it in a pan, prime the
line and look for drooling while the pressure gauge is on there. Drop
and no drool implicates the check valve; drool in the pan means new
or reconditioned injectors. You'd have to find a way to keep the
injectors from popping out - a junk LS1 manifold would do, could be
a freebie.
make starting difficult. A cheapo fuel pressure gauge will at least say
if it's a leakdown problem.
But you can also get cold starting problems from plain overenrichment,
which is a consequence of some mods (needing cranking VE table work
along with the main, and maybe some pulling back of cold EQ table
values). If the line stays pressurized and starting still sucks that says
it's a tune issue.
You could pull the whole injector rack and put it in a pan, prime the
line and look for drooling while the pressure gauge is on there. Drop
and no drool implicates the check valve; drool in the pan means new
or reconditioned injectors. You'd have to find a way to keep the
injectors from popping out - a junk LS1 manifold would do, could be
a freebie.
03-26-2012, 01:12 PM
#4
Thank you for the suggestions guys.^^
Well I made the decision to order a Racetronix pump from the WS6Store.
Cut the trap door and did the swap over the weekend.
She fires right up.
I am very happy with how it all turned out.
Not to mention the cheapest garbage replacement pump from Vatozone was almost four times as much money.
So I saved myself quite a great deal of coin and got a really good pump out of it.
Not to mention the pump was at my door in just a few days thanks to the awesome guys at the WS6Store.
Cutting the trap door could have been a great deal easier with the right tools, but even doing it with tinsnips and a drill was not all that bad.
-Matt
Well I made the decision to order a Racetronix pump from the WS6Store.
Cut the trap door and did the swap over the weekend.
She fires right up.
I am very happy with how it all turned out.
Not to mention the cheapest garbage replacement pump from Vatozone was almost four times as much money.
So I saved myself quite a great deal of coin and got a really good pump out of it.
Not to mention the pump was at my door in just a few days thanks to the awesome guys at the WS6Store.
Cutting the trap door could have been a great deal easier with the right tools, but even doing it with tinsnips and a drill was not all that bad.
-Matt
