SF 1HOTLS1

iTrader: (24)

Stock alternator here with 125k. So ive noticed lately while driving my voltage is dropping below the 13 mark on the stock gauge. it seems to be in the 12.7 range. Before i installed my wideband and trans temp gauge it was in the 13.5 almost 14 range.

I run a lot of electronics (wideband, trans temp gauge, window switch, nitrous, purge kit, aftermarket stereo/amp, racetronix hot wire kit, and i think 1 more)

Could my alternator not be holding up? and whats a good suggestion. I was looking into this one.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-Chevy-Ca...7fabb5&vxp=mtr

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

I used the alternator from a Caddy suv, 145 amp I believe. It only has the 2 bolts to mount but that makes it easier to install.

bmax

iTrader: (1)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-failures.html

Check this link.

Brad

beyonddisturbed

iTrader: (5)

Definitely check out that thread. I got a 145 amp alt out of an escalade about 2 years ago after seeing a voltage drop at WOT. Haven't had any problems since and it was only $45

aerojt

iTrader: (4)

I didn't know about the escalade alternator option until now.

I changed mine last summer, went with a new one from Auto Zone, not rebuilt. It went in and looked exactly stock, working well. Not the cheapest one though that is for sure.

SF 1HOTLS1

iTrader: (24)

well after checking out the thread and a few others i think the best option as of now is doing the big 3 upgrade. I notice my dash lights somewhat flickering. not my headlights tho.

Will be ordering from innovative wiring. BUT is it bad to run my window switch, nitrous, purge kit, aftermarket stereo/amp, racetronix hot wire kit all of the same 12 volt source thats right next to the fuse box. the one that the alternator goes too.

SF 1HOTLS1

iTrader: (24)

Also, what is that brownish wire that bolts to the body of the car. it comes out from near the alternator. does that ever need to be replaced