car shutting off issue
09-14-2013, 07:58 PM
#1
car shutting off issue hey everyone, I have a question. someone please chime in.
so I did a cam, header and transmission swap last weekend in my 99 z28 m6. . everything went pretty well. the cam is only a 220 so I haven't got it tuned yet, but I will. anyway. I had issues with the car dying when coming to a stop light. I was thinking maybe a vacuum leak but I couldn't find one. well the car was doing better after putting miles on the cam, I guess the pcm needed to learn it? well, yesterday I left school and on my way home, right when I got on the on ramp on the i10, the car just died. no stumble, just died. so I pulled over, took the key out, open and closed the door and retried to start it. it started with no problem, and drove home fine. so I hooked it up to my hptuners and everything was looking good, only egr and o2 sensors throwing a code (I took out the cats and egr). then I drove the car around and again it died on me. this time, the car would crank over but wouldn't start. after about a minute, it started and I drove home, then it died again while pulling into my driveway. car would not start anymore after that. but it cranks really good. a few hours later I tried it and it started. so today I checked the wires at the ckp and they are good, and the connector is good and clean. so I have an extra good ckp and I replaced it. car does the same ****. im frustrated right now. has anyone experienced this? any input is appreciated. thank you
so I did a cam, header and transmission swap last weekend in my 99 z28 m6. . everything went pretty well. the cam is only a 220 so I haven't got it tuned yet, but I will. anyway. I had issues with the car dying when coming to a stop light. I was thinking maybe a vacuum leak but I couldn't find one. well the car was doing better after putting miles on the cam, I guess the pcm needed to learn it? well, yesterday I left school and on my way home, right when I got on the on ramp on the i10, the car just died. no stumble, just died. so I pulled over, took the key out, open and closed the door and retried to start it. it started with no problem, and drove home fine. so I hooked it up to my hptuners and everything was looking good, only egr and o2 sensors throwing a code (I took out the cats and egr). then I drove the car around and again it died on me. this time, the car would crank over but wouldn't start. after about a minute, it started and I drove home, then it died again while pulling into my driveway. car would not start anymore after that. but it cranks really good. a few hours later I tried it and it started. so today I checked the wires at the ckp and they are good, and the connector is good and clean. so I have an extra good ckp and I replaced it. car does the same ****. im frustrated right now. has anyone experienced this? any input is appreciated. thank you
09-14-2013, 08:59 PM
#2
Mine was doing that a little while back along with the coolant temp gauge going a little nuts. Turned out the ECT sensor plug wasn't making good contact. Pulled the plug off, made sure it was all clean and re-seated it. Haven't had the problem since.
09-15-2013, 01:52 PM
#3
thanx for the input. I unplugged the sensor and cleaned it. still the same problem. it kinda feels like its a heat problem. the ect itself doesn't get too hot, but the engine bay gets pretty hot in there. I have the Sunoco hood so it really doesn't let out heat. im thinking maybe it could be the ICM after it gets hot just stops producing voltage, then once it cools down, it works again. im not sure, but I also don't know how to test that, or where its located. its really the only thing I can think of
09-22-2013, 08:26 PM
#6
yea I checked a wiring diagram and the coils get it straight from the pcm. it ended up being a faulty fuel pump relay. I even tested the relay before, I got 80ohms across the coil/resistor which is good, and .4ohms across the contacts once energized. I even left it energized for 20 minutes in the sun so it can get hot to see if it will build more resistance with heat and it was still at .4 ohms. so I ruled it out. I ended up changing it afterwards anyway and it fixed the problem.